Mach motor build dummy here.

[Ebrunott]

First and foremost, could i build my shortblock, capable of 500whp with roughly 4k$. Upon return from my deployment it looks like i had a bit more money then i expected, so along with my eaton swap i want to fully forge my bottom end.

Should i look into replacing my crank? (I have the MT with the factory forged crank)

Also for you boosted machs, what kind of rotsting assmebly's are you running? I did some shopping and basically came up with manley h-beams, manley rings and 3.552 bore manley pistons with sealed power rod bearings. Now i've realized i am not sure if i should get flat top notched pistons, or +17cc dished ones. What is best suitible for boosted applications? I feel i am way over head here

Thanks!

 

[snakeraper11b]

First and foremost, could i build my shortblock, capable of 500whp with roughly 4k$. Upon return from my deployment it looks like i had a bit more money then i expected, so along with my eaton swap i want to fully forge my bottom end.

Should i look into replacing my crank? (I have the MT with the factory forged crank)

Also for you boosted machs, what kind of rotsting assmebly's are you running? I did some shopping and basically came up with manley h-beams, manley rings and 3.552 bore manley pistons with sealed power rod bearings. Now i've realized i am not sure if i should get flat top notched pistons, or +17cc dished ones. What is best suitible for boosted applications? I feel i am way over head here

Thanks!

Edit: I skipped over your eaton swap part, so I updated my post with pistons better suited for that app.

Stock forged crank is fine to around 1500hp, rods are good, go with diamond pistons 3.572 / .020" over and King bearings. 17cc pistons will lower your compression way too much, in the low 8ish:1 areas. Coming from the stock mach compression at over 10:1 it will feel like a dog and be a huge downgrade in performance until you boost it whenever that is. Even then, something in the 9ish:1 area will perform well out of boost and allow plenty of boost on pump gas to have fun.

The combo below, with .036"x3.625" head gasket, 52 cc stock heads, block decked to .008" from the stock .012" will yield about a 9.1:1 compression. Great for your eaton application with reasonable psi and timing even on pump gas. If you plan on running a good amount of boost you may want to look into a ring set with a stainless top ring instead of a standard plasma moly. There are downsides to both, but the stainless top ring will put up with the abuse from a boosted application better most of the time. Lastly, I would upgrade to the H-13 .200" wall uncoated wrist pins while you're doing the build.

http://www.excessiveracing.com/DRP-30002.aspx
https://www.modmaxracing.com/product_p/kngcr889hp.htm
King HIGH PERFORMANCE Main Bearing Set ALUMINUM 4.6 Blocks

 

[Ebrunott]

Ah okay, now i have a bit more of an understanding when it comes to pistons, and those diamond pistons seem to be pretty cheap compared to manley.

I am having trouble finding rings that are steel, at a 3.572 " bore. And im also unsure which size rod, and main bearings to get? So far it looks like i will be able to meet my budget, but you never know. Also a tad confused on what you meant about the gaskets if you could explain a bit more. Should i look into rod bolt upgrades too? Or are the standard arp 8740 sufficient?

also if anyone else has idea, id love for you guys to bounce them off of me.

:rockon:

 

[snakeraper11b]

Ah okay, now i have a bit more of an understanding when it comes to pistons, and those diamond pistons seem to be pretty cheap compared to manley.

I am having trouble finding rings that are steel, at a 3.572 " bore. And im also unsure which size rod, and main bearings to get? So far it looks like i will be able to meet my budget, but you never know. Also a tad confused on what you meant about the gaskets if you could explain a bit more. Should i look into rod bolt upgrades too? Or are the standard arp 8740 sufficient?

also if anyone else has idea, id love for you guys to bounce them off of me.

:rockon:

Those diamonds blow manleys out of the water in all aspects. If you're paying more than that for manleys, you're wasting a lot of money.

These rings will work well. Total Seal CS8264-25 - Advanced Profiling Stainless Steel Piston Ring Set 1.5mm x 1.5mm x 3mm, 3.572" Bore Make sure you use an engine builder who knows what the he is doing and has built high performance modulars before, I recommend L&M if the car can be down for a few weeks. The stainless rings require a different finish to the cylinder walls than moly rings.

Oem size rod bearings on the new rods and probably .001" less clearance once the crank is cleaned up and polished, maybe oem sizing, but that will be up to your engine builder once the time comes.

Head gaskets have two important dimensions: Compressed height, and bore diameter. The compressed gasket thickness desirable for our cars is generally .036". The bore diameter you want is 3.625", although 3.630" will work as well for a cylinder bore of 3.572". With decking the block to .008" is will give you a piston to head clearance of .044", which is just about optimal for the parts being used.

The stock rod bolts that come with the manley H beams are the limiting factor of the rod. Generally around 750-850 hp and 7500rpm. If you plan on going near those upgrade to the ARP2000. However, I'm all about overkill. It's much cheaper to pay $100 extra now and upgrade and not worry about it, than have the engine fail, or have to upgrade them down the line when you want more.

If you pull the engine yourself, and install it yourself, you should meet your price goal. Also, make sure you have them degree your cams when the engine goes back together, it's worth it. Average shop price is around $300-400 on top of the build.

 

[Ebrunott]

Hey thanks for the information...ive been so torn on this build i dont know what route to go anymore. I know one thing is for certain. Im going to need forged internals (except my crank). I saw on mustangsunlimited that they sell a forged shortblock, with forged I beams for just a bit over 2k$ ive heard of H beam rods, but not I are they weaker? Or stonger? I'm way over my head and i feel like im drowning!

 

[na svt]

Go with H beam rods and use your stock crank. The cylinders will need to be bored so get 3.572 pistons with dish volumes between 3 and 9cc.

 

[Ebrunott]

What for do i need to bore my cylinders out? I heard i can just get it honed. Is it safe to run boost on a bored out 4.6?

 

[na svt]

It'll be boost safe

 

[Ebrunott]

Awesome, plus wont the supercharger see a slight gain over a non bored out motor?!

 

[Ebrunott]

http://www.modmaxracing.com/ShoppingCart.asp

Ive decided on this piston/rod combo, however ive also looked at the flattop mahle's. If im using stock rod length, and stock crank, and stock cams, i wont need to get valve relieved pistons correct? However if my crank and cams change ill need valve reliefs? Im still slightly confused on this.
:shrug::shrug:

 

[na svt]

Awesome, plus wont the supercharger see a slight gain over a non bored out motor?!

Any gain would be very slight since you would be adding less than 5ci.