Low boost problem figured out!

99VERT

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Well this weekend I went out with my son for a little father son bonding! 16lbs of screaming boost always gives him a smile as well as me! After about 15 minutes of driving I noticed the boost had dropped from 16/17psi to 5 psi. After a little research I found some good info on these boards about the intercooler pump and possible issues. After 15 years as a Lexus and Honda technician I'm not afraid to dive into some diagnosing! Well 1st off we have no intercooler fluid flow at all with car running and reservoir cap removed. I immediately think bad pump so I check power and ground just to confirm and lo and behold I have power but no ground. I get my hands on a wiring diagram from a Ford technician and traced a few connectors and found this! The photo below is the connector next to the air filter that is relocated when you install a JLT Cold Air or anything else besides the factory air box. Notice the little burn mark at the end. A loose ground connection caused a lot of resistance and heated up the connector. I tweaked the male pin in the connector for a better connection and bingo the intercooler pump came to life, Im pretty sure this has been a lingering problem for some time. From time to time the car felt weak or lack of power and other times it feels like a beast. So I think this loose connection on the ground circuit would come and go! Once the intercooler temps get to high the PCM dumps most of the boost to help avoid detonation. I wonder if some under hood detailing/washing caused some water intrusion which started this problem. Hopefully this will help someone else down the road chasing the same problem! The Ford tech is checking to see if I can order the exact connector so I can replace it.
IMG_0951.PNG
 

biminiLX

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Yes you can buy it I just bought it when I installed a second stock pump in the rear for the ice tank.
I'll look for part number but their is a BA and an AB part number, one for the connector and one for the jumper harness. Just FYI. I'd get both return the one you don't need.
-J
 

Drewsky65

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Good advice here. Hope I never run into this problem. I've never heard of it occurring before
 

beau t

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that connector pin looks small for carrying a load, would it be worth upgrading to a bigger connector/pin set-up, guess it depends on the amp draw, i say this because i think this is about the 4th or 5th thread i have seen for pumps not running and curious how many have caused pump issues. Thanks snoopy for adding links whenever a problem arises to help out.

try these guys, i have gotten various connectors at a fraction of dealer cost from them
 
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99VERT

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Beau t, I'm thinking of running a separate ground connection to help. The power signal is fine. just the ground side is melted. Thinking about grounding the pump through the engine block and just using the power signal to switch it on and off. I agree on the wire size!
 

Snoopy49

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I wonder if the problem was due to a pushed pin or socket? Sometimes the socket or pin does not lock in the housing and get pushed back when the connectors are mated. In that case the tips of the socket and pin barely make contact and the current flow passed through a smaller contact area causes an overheat situation that results in melted plastic and separation. Or, it could be just a bad crimp.
 

biminiLX

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Does anyone know what triggers the intercooler pump to come on?
Do you know if the pump comes on by timer or thermostat?
When we watch my rear ice tank, there is a considerable delay until the water starts flowing, so I'm assuming it's not key on but a thermostat or timer.
-J
 

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