Because my 14 degas tank is plumbed like my 11, I see movement in the tank as soon as the engine starts. Not sure if everyone's is like mine..
Low boost problem figured out!
- Thread starter 99VERT
- Start date
From the 2013-14 Service Manual
Charge Air Cooler (CAC) Coolant Temperature Sensor
The CAC coolant temperature sensor is a thermistor device in which resistance changes with the temperature. The resistance of a thermistor decreases as temperature increases, and the resistance increases as the temperature decreases. The varying resistance affects the voltage drop across the sensor terminals and provides electrical signals to the PCM corresponding to temperature.
Thermistor-type sensors are considered passive sensors. A passive sensor is connected to a voltage divider network so varying the resistance of the passive sensor causes a variation in total current flow. Voltage that is dropped across a fixed resistor (pull-up resistor) in series with the sensor resistor determines the voltage signal at the PCM. This voltage signal is equal to the reference voltage minus the voltage drop across the fixed resistor.
The CAC coolant temperature sensor is installed in the side of the CAC radiator and measures the CAC system coolant temperature. The PCM uses the CAC coolant temperature sensor to determine desired operating condition of the CAC coolant pump.
CAC Coolant Temperature Sensor
As always, Snoopy is spot-on. It's thermostatically-controlled, with a set-temp that can be adjusted via tune. IIRC, my tuner said the factory default setting kicks it on around 100'-110'. He normally changes that to come on around 70', so my pumps (and fans) run almost all the time.
Thanks that makes sense, much appreciated guys.
Flows like gang busters with the 2 pumps. Did 2 as a failsafe redundancy, but wonder if one dies I assume the other can still pump through it and I would just notice hotter IAT2s not complete failure.
-J
Flows like gang busters with the 2 pumps. Did 2 as a failsafe redundancy, but wonder if one dies I assume the other can still pump through it and I would just notice hotter IAT2s not complete failure.
-J
biminiLX,
Did you plumb the pumps in parallel or in series?
Did you plumb the pumps in parallel or in series?
if they work like the old inline pumps they will pull through but not at the same rate. Biminilx what kind of temps are you seeing with the new system i remember reading the thread and it looked impressive. Did you wrap the tank with anything to help stop condensation?
Series as in stock up front and then 1" lines to tank with tank discharge gravity feeding rear pump.
I'll get a pic up but it should work well. Only had to enlarge one stock hole in rear so limited cutting.
Only issue is I elected to keep stock reservoir up front so it needs a better rear locking cap due to gravity. Basically the front reservoir is a glorified catch can at this point.
Between this and the lower intake mode with Biggun cooler, I expect great IAT2s. Car went back to shop yesterday for final street tuning.
-J
biminiLX,
Is the rear pump plumbed into the return line going back to the tank?
Is the rear pump plumbed into the return line going back to the tank?
Rear pump is plumbed in rear tank discharge line that goes direct from ice tank to intake intercooler.
The best routing is feeding engine intercooler with coldest water direct from tank.
The discharge from intake intercooler goes to heat exchanger then back to tank. The stock pump is in that circuit.
Basically one pump on either side of intake.
-J
The best routing is feeding engine intercooler with coldest water direct from tank.
The discharge from intake intercooler goes to heat exchanger then back to tank. The stock pump is in that circuit.
Basically one pump on either side of intake.
-J
Update on the repair. I bought a waterproof eight pin connector. A friend of mine had the special pliers to crimp everything together. The pins on the new connector are much beefier then the factory one. I believe this should take care of the problem.
I ended up back with new OEM harnesses since I had a short inside of the wiring as well but where did you get those connectors at so I can go ahead and upgrade that as well?
Thanks-
Trey
There's also a special pair of crimpers you need. Luckily I had a friend you had the proper crimpers.
The factory pin sizes are very small! The connector I installed has pin sixes almost 75% larger than factory. So far so good on mine. My temporary fix was just to bypass the connector all together and hard wire the ground until I got my hands on this connector kit. eBay sell universal connector kits if that's an easier option.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Pin-Way-B...ash=item41c3fa2a70:g:xqEAAOSwtGlZC4EA&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Pin-Way-B...ash=item41c3fa2a70:g:xqEAAOSwtGlZC4EA&vxp=mtr
I would check the amp draw at the connection. Possible short or very low resistance between the connection and ground.
My thought exactly. Poor connection likely due to the OP not fully seating the plug during a mod, hence the intermittent connection. I don't believe anything is wrong with the inherent design.
Norton, I'll be interested in knowing about your tuner, especially because I'm running a canned Lund tune now, but primarily because I'll be adding 6K foot of elevation and haven't had the car dyno'd since the mods....
Went a little different route, instead of getting a whole new 8 pin connection I just went with a high heat resistant weather proof 2 pin connector to isolate the two wires for IC pump totally off of the OEM plug, like you mentioned these are MUCH LARGER bullet style pins instead of the low contact flat style provided from Ford. I was just doing research and once a tune is installed and the pump is engaged sooner and for longer periods of time that pin just can't seem to handle the draw being put on it. Much like you I hope at this point I am done with these issues and can enjoy this car!
Happy to recommend... Both kpinco and I are happy with our custom tunes from Elite Performance and Tuning (Eddie Giannini) in Littleton, CO.
Users who are viewing this thread
