Loose Caliper Bolts!

[Det.Bullitt]

Last night I went for a drive and I notice an odd sound and found that my caliper bolts on the front passenger side are loose. I noticed this in the past and tightened them but it seems they keep coming loose. I tightened really tight! Anyone else having this issue?

 

[keith89]

Last night I went for a drive and I notice an odd sound and found that my caliper bolts on the front passenger side are loose. I noticed this in the past and tightened them but it seems they keep coming loose. I tightened really tight! Anyone else having this issue?

Did you loctite them?

 

[jrgoffin]

They need RED loc-tite & 85 lb/ft of torque. It's not just an "I tightened them" process...

 

[markcass123]

this is what you gotta do to tighten these things get front end on jackstands remove tires, turn the wheel so you can get your torque wrench on these things and get leverage, make sure you use loctite or some thread sealant. These are your brakes dont want to be messing around with these !

 

[markcass123]

85 ft lbs

 

[Det.Bullitt]

Ok guys, I just did it. I should be all set now.

 

[20SVT03]

I realize what you are SUPPOSED to do, but I've been a mechanic for almost 10 years now and have NEVER reapplied loctite and have NEVER had a problem. I just tighten with an impact or as tight as I can with a wrench. I would not be suprised if you have this problem again.

 

[jrgoffin]

I realize what you are SUPPOSED to do, but I've been a mechanic for almost 10 years now and have NEVER reapplied loctite and have NEVER had a problem. I just tighten with an impact or as tight as I can with a wrench. I would not be suprised if you have this problem again.

So as a mechanic you would just blast them with an impact or use the "as tight as I can get them" method? Wow. Torque specs, torque wrenches, and to a lesser extent, Loctite, actually do have a purpose. If you are going to do it - do it right.

 

[20SVT03]

Ok if you want to play it that way, just about every single Ford brake caliper bolt comes from the factory with blue loctite not red and if you go by the manual for ANY repair, their is a torque spec. I realize the importance there is to making sure that things like brakes are tightened correctly there is just no need to go that extra length unless say you are road racing and putting the brakes through some extreme heat cycles. Ask how many people in the real world reapply loctite and pull out a torque wrench while doing a brake job or even a suspension repair for that fact.

 

[jrgoffin]

Ok if you want to play it that way, just about every single Ford brake caliper bolt comes from the factory with blue loctite not red and if you go by the manual for ANY repair, their is a torque spec. I realize the importance there is to making sure that things like brakes are tightened correctly there is just no need to go that extra length unless say you are road racing and putting the brakes through some extreme heat cycles. Ask how many people in the real world reapply loctite and pull out a torque wrench while doing a brake job or even a suspension repair for that fact.

Wow, again...

Actually, the new OEM Ford bolts (just bought a set) came with RED loc-tite on them, which was yet another reason to apply the proper torque. No kidding there is a torque spec in the manual - it is exactly why I keep them on my shelf and actually use them, which is hardly going any "extra length". It should be the "norm".

The "real world" lack of doing it right, whether it is evident with guys on these forums or at any local repair shop, is exactly why I do 100% of my work myself - way too many hacks out there:rollseyes

 

[keith89]

Ok if you want to play it that way, just about every single Ford brake caliper bolt comes from the factory with blue loctite not red and if you go by the manual for ANY repair, their is a torque spec. I realize the importance there is to making sure that things like brakes are tightened correctly there is just no need to go that extra length unless say you are road racing and putting the brakes through some extreme heat cycles. Ask how many people in the real world reapply loctite and pull out a torque wrench while doing a brake job or even a suspension repair for that fact.

Mentality like this is why i do as much work as i can on my own. I've had stripped and seized lug nuts, seat mounting bolts, brake caliper bolts from taking my car to a mechanic. I loctite and use proper torque as per the manual.

jrgoffin is correct. My factory caliper bolts also had red loctite.

 

[RIDE THE]

I've been working for Ford since 1993. I've never once used a torque wrench on caliper mounting bracket bolts or applied another round of loctite to them. A majority of Fords caliper bracket bolts do come with Blue loctite on them. There a red and even yellow loctite used for the bolts. Blue however is the most commonly used loctite by Ford.

If the bolts need replaced or loctitie needed added to them whenever they are removed, how come they are not part of any of the brake pad kits or mentioned in the shop manual? The brake pad kits have the anti rattle clips and everything else that Ford says that should be replaced per application. Shop manual says nothing about reapplying loctite to the original mounting hardware. Actually, not even a mention of loctite or bolt replacement anywhere in section 206-03. Bolt in drive hub assemblies come with new replacement bolts that have loctite already installed. Why not brake kits? You have to remove the bracket to remove the brake disc right?

We don't need to keep paper manuals on the shelf. I have access to every single shop manual on my computer and phone (Service, EVTM, PCED, Owners and even Body Manuals). The other benefit to this over paper manuals is that Ford updates info in their service publications as time goes on and they find out about defects, flaws, improper installation procedures or just crap they find out about 10 years after the vehicle is no longer in production.

There are some things that obviously need torque steps and the proper torque sequence followed exactly. There are also some things that are common sense for people that actually work in the field in question.

BTW.... How often do you get your torque wrenches calibrated?

I calibrate all of mine every two years.

 

[keith89]

I've been working for Ford since 1993. I've never once used a torque wrench on caliper mounting bracket bolts or applied another round of loctite to them. A majority of Fords caliper bracket bolts do come with Blue loctite on them. There a red and even yellow loctite used for the bolts. Blue however is the most commonly used loctite by Ford.

If the bolts need replaced or loctitie needed added to them whenever they are removed, how come they are not part of any of the brake pad kits or mentioned in the shop manual? The brake pad kits have the anti rattle clips and everything else that Ford says that should be replaced per application. Shop manual says nothing about reapplying loctite to the original mounting hardware. Actually, not even a mention of loctite or bolt replacement anywhere in section 206-03. Bolt in drive hub assemblies come with new replacement bolts that have loctite already installed. Why not brake kits? You have to remove the bracket to remove the brake disc right?

We don't need to keep paper manuals on the shelf. I have access to every single shop manual on my computer and phone (Service, EVTM, PCED, Owners and even Body Manuals). The other benefit to this over paper manuals is that Ford updates info in their service publications as time goes on and they find out about defects, flaws, improper installation procedures or just crap they find out about 10 years after the vehicle is no longer in production.

There are some things that obviously need torque steps and the proper torque sequence followed exactly. There are also some things that are common sense for people that actually work in the field in question.

BTW.... How often do you get your torque wrenches calibrated?

I calibrate all of mine every two years.

The point is the OP is having problems with this, so he obviously won't be able to do it by feel like you do. We're giving him proper advice as per the manual. What he feels is good and tight might not be the case so we gave him a torque spec. OP's level of experience obviously doesn't compare to yours.

 

[RIDE THE]

I understand that. But when a Senior Ford Master Tech with plenty of experience is advising that there might be an attaching issue... he is (in a round about way) called a hack for offering that advise.

It's all about a diagnostic path for us. Ford drills us with this on every aspect of our training. SSCC is what it is called. "Symptom-System-Component-Cause".

Checking the threads on both the bolts and the steering knuckle for any damage would be the first thing that I would do. I've actually seen steering knuckles crack at the caliper mounting bracket holes and the bolts would always back out over time. It's not just limited to Cobras. I've even seen it on V6 models. Adding more loctite to the bolt if there was a fastener retention issue without inspecting the threads and the mounting surface is like skipping to step F in the diagnostic routine.

I would think that the next question would be does the OP even own a 1/2 torque wrench that is properly calibrated?

 

[VirtualSVT]

damn that was settled correctly lol

 

[keith89]

I understand that. But when a Senior Ford Master Tech with plenty of experience is advising that there might be an attaching issue... he is (in a round about way) called a hack for offering that advise.

It's all about a diagnostic path for us. Ford drills us with this on every aspect of our training. SSCC is what it is called. "Symptom-System-Component-Cause".

Checking the threads on both the bolts and the steering knuckle for any damage would be the first thing that I would do. I've actually seen steering knuckles crack at the caliper mounting bracket holes and the bolts would always back out over time. It's not just limited to Cobras. I've even seen it on V6 models. Adding more loctite to the bolt if there was a fastener retention issue without inspecting the threads and the mounting surface is like skipping to step F in the diagnostic routine.

I would think that the next question would be does the OP even own a 1/2 torque wrench that is properly calibrated?

Again, we started with the simplest question first. Did the OP know what the proper torque and loctite method as per the manual?(most of us use the manual because we are not techs) What he considered "really tight" may not have been tight enough. According to his response, it sounds like he didn't have it tight enough.
Then 20SVT03 went on to say he doesn't need a torque wrench because he(and you) can do it by feel. Based on his response, it sounds like he didn't torque it down enough because unlike you, he didn't know what the proper torque felt like so it was too loose. I'm not doubting your knowledge and experience. I just feel you're overthinking the situation as it seems like he realized his error.

 

[jrgoffin]

I've been working for Ford since 1993. I've never once used a torque wrench on caliper mounting bracket bolts or applied another round of loctite to them. A majority of Fords caliper bracket bolts do come with Blue loctite on them. There a red and even yellow loctite used for the bolts. Blue however is the most commonly used loctite by Ford.

If the bolts need replaced or loctitie needed added to them whenever they are removed, how come they are not part of any of the brake pad kits or mentioned in the shop manual? The brake pad kits have the anti rattle clips and everything else that Ford says that should be replaced per application. Shop manual says nothing about reapplying loctite to the original mounting hardware. Actually, not even a mention of loctite or bolt replacement anywhere in section 206-03. Bolt in drive hub assemblies come with new replacement bolts that have loctite already installed. Why not brake kits? You have to remove the bracket to remove the brake disc right?

We don't need to keep paper manuals on the shelf. I have access to every single shop manual on my computer and phone (Service, EVTM, PCED, Owners and even Body Manuals). The other benefit to this over paper manuals is that Ford updates info in their service publications as time goes on and they find out about defects, flaws, improper installation procedures or just crap they find out about 10 years after the vehicle is no longer in production.

There are some things that obviously need torque steps and the proper torque sequence followed exactly. There are also some things that are common sense for people that actually work in the field in question.

BTW.... How often do you get your torque wrenches calibrated?

I calibrate all of mine every two years.

Once again, it is obvious that the caliper attaching bolts, when you buy them new (if you want OR need to), come with loctite. If Ford didn't feel that the bolts in question needed a sealer, then they wouldn't have it on there in the first place. If you choose to skip a thread locker on critical brake or suspension parts, then more power to you.

If the service manual(s), whether they are in book form OR on the computer (yes, some of us also have both), post a CORRECT torque spec, ignoring it is idiotic. The original issue isn't that they NEEDED to be replaced, it was that they were loose in the first place. Nowhere did anyone go on a rant about doing a complete brake job with a stipulation that the caliper attaching bolts had to be new.

Still, makes me glad I do all the work myself: thorough AND correct.

 

[Det.Bullitt]

Ok guys... I got new caliper bolts with the red loctite and I torqed them down at 85 ft/lb so I should be all set. I drove the car 100 miles and the bolts are tight. Thanks for all the help on here.

 

[Hockeyman48]

Everybody sure got all torqued up over one simple question!!

 

[SlowSVT]

They need RED loc-tite & 85 lb/ft of torque. It's not just an "I tightened them" process...

That's a bad idea.

Red loc-tite is pretty drastic overkill and is considered "non-removable". It basically epoxies the bolt in the thread. Blue loc-tite is more then enough to secure the bolt and you won't ruin anything when you remove the bolt.