Loose axle nuts, now what?

[rattle_snake]

Have a squeak coming from right side of car after brake job, so I reads some threads and also found a couple with 'check your axle nut torque'. I bought a 36mm socket, and sure enough both nuts were only ~30ft/lbs. I torqued them best I could re-assembled for now.

Question is what should I do now? I understand that the bearing, hub (and possibly knuckle) can be damaged. Other than just checking for wheel play, should I pull the hubs and inspect the OD surface? Can the bearing be inspected (don't think so after watch FTBR knuckle re-build video)?

Should I just get new nuts, install with loctite and see what happens? Drive and check for wheel play and nut torque after 50 miles or so?
:??:
Thanks

 

[DisposableHero]

Is the squeak gone now that you've tightened the nuts?

You'll have to see if the nuts stay tight. If they don't, you'll need to replace them.

I wouldn't change anything until you hear noise again.

 

[pdm]

I guarantee you did not tighten them enough. You probably don't need new nuts. They just need to be torqued properly. Torque them to 250ft-lb and DO NOT use any thread locker.

 

[rattle_snake]

Squeak is still there. I had rear wheels off to apply some grease to the pads, I only had time to do the rear (front are dry). Prehaps the noise was present before brake job but I didn't notice until then. I bought a 3/4" drive torque wrench and will re-torque to spec. Noise goes away when brakes are applied.

 

[masterjr33]

hanging parking brake cable? or hanging caliper?

 

[DisposableHero]

Does the squeak vary with mph?

 

[rattle_snake]

Greased the front brakes and torqued the rear axle nuts to 250ft/lbs, noise appears to be gone, for now. Without the TQ wrench, I had only torqued the axle nut to about 150. That was with a 3' breaker bar. All 4 wheels are tight and have no perceivable play in the wheel bearings.

So unclear which change removed the noise. Will have to wait and see if noise comes back and continue to check nut torque.

 

[weaselp1]

I guarantee you did not tighten them enough. You probably don't need new nuts. They just need to be torqued properly. Torque them to 250ft-lb and DO NOT use any thread locker.

Is there a reason you recommend not to use thread locker?

 

[pdm]

Greased the front brakes and torqued the rear axle nuts to 250ft/lbs, noise appears to be gone, for now. Without the TQ wrench, I had only torqued the axle nut to about 150. That was with a 3' breaker bar. All 4 wheels are tight and have no perceivable play in the wheel bearings.

So unclear which change removed the noise. Will have to wait and see if noise comes back and continue to check nut torque.

Good to hear. Hope you got it nailed for good.

Is there a reason you recommend not to use thread locker?

For fasteners with a definitive torque spec, I almost never use thread locker. It acts as a lubricant in the threads and allows it to be tightened more than intended with the given torque value. It may have no ill effects in this application, but it is entirely unnecessary.

 

[ac427cobra]

From the IRS Informational article on our site:

http://fulltiltboogieracing.com/mystery_of_irs.htm



IRS Maintenance

One item that is frequently overlooked regarding the maintenance of the IRS is regular checks of the torque on the rear axle halfshaft retaining nuts. If these nuts work loose, the bearings lose their pre-load. If the knuckle bearings lose their pre-load they self destruct in short order. If the bearing is run long enough in that condition that will eventually destroy the hub. The torque on the 36mm nuts that attach the halfshaft to the rear hub on the knuckle should be checked on a regular basis. If your car never goes to a race track, three or four times a year should be sufficient. Torque these 36mm nuts to 240-250 ft. lbs. If you’re going to a race track, torque before EVERY event. If you find this nut keeps coming loose, it should be replaced with a new nut. If a new nut works loose, the spline in the hub is worn out and the hub should be replaced. If you’re replacing the hub, replace the bearing at the same time as long as you’re going that deep into the repair. Be sure to use the Ford double tapered roller bearing and not a cheap aftermarket ball bearing. This is not a place to save $10 or $20, trust me.


More info on the IRS can be found in the FAQ on our site. See my sig for link.


:beer:

 

[rattle_snake]

Thanks Bruce, it was your comments to check axle nut torque in the brake squeak threads I searched through originally. Your site is very helpful.

 

[rattle_snake]

Left rear bearing starting to make some horrible sounds, not good. Different noise than before, comes and goes with throttle and swerving (side load). Can hear it real good from trunk with rear seats folded down. Going to have to pull the hubs and see how bad it is.

 

[Bdubbs]

Anyone have a picture of these 36mm nuts? I've never checked mine and I'd like too.

 

[03' White Snake]

Take your wheel off and look in the center of rotor. You can't miss them.

 

[Bdubbs]

Take your wheel off and look in the center of rotor. You can't miss them.

Thanks, guess I can check them when I do my brake job, should be soon.

EDIT: They are 36mm correct? Now I need to buy another torque wrench, grrrr.

 

[Rambro]

Is there any way to tighten the nut without using the e brake? When I did my wheel bearing I took the e brake spring off and couldn't get it back on. So I had to put a wheel on, put the car on the ground and use an extension to torque the nut. I think the extension would affect the torque ratio.

 

[rattle_snake]

Before I pulled the knuckles I checked the nut torque; left side went from 240ft/lbs to 20ft lbs after only 70 miles. Left bearing is completely shot and hub is loose in the bearing so it's done too. Right side is OK but since the nut was loose I will replace bearing anyway. Going to press the pieces apart and see exactly what I need to relace.

I was able to torque the axle nut without a wheel on the ground, just in gear/ebrake on.

 

[rattle_snake]

Completed the knuckle re-builds. The right hub OD measured OK so I reused it. Since I had things apart, I also upgraded to longer studs. Partly to avoid tech inspector stink eye at the drag strip, and also to run a small hub centric wheel spacer for aesthetics. For ARP studs, the hubs need the holes enlarged another 0.016". This is easier and more accurately done with a drill press than a hand drill on the car. Also, its much easier to press in the studs from the back with a shop press, as apposed to using lug nuts to pull them in. The longer studs require the removal of the brake caliper brackets to get the rotors on and off.

FTBR's knuckle rebuild video is very helpful in preparation for this task. The cast knuckle are relatively fragile, and care is needed to not damage them with a press. For bearing removal, a 6" piece of large pipe (5-6" diameter) works well to support the knuckle center without stressing the arms. When using the old bearing to press in the new one, I figured it would get stuck in the bore as it has to go in about a 1/4", so I ground down the OD to a slip fit. The hubs will not come all the way through the bearing races, they are fully seated when they are about 0.130" from the end. The hub seats against the outer bearing race but cannot be seen once they are going together.