I only made 470 on pump. How do you do that I would love that power level on pump gas. I run e85 and still only got to 570whp. I’m running a D1 procharger on a built bottom end on my 01 cobra.
Looking for build direction for a 01 Cobra
- Thread starter 5.0 Hatch
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+1 for sure my 01 went 238 miles on my D1 before breaking ringlands on two pistons.
After reading #14 my advice as someone who took an ordinary 01 cobra bone stock and built it from bumper to bumper literally. If you go forged you might as well boost it and if you go boost you might as well be ready to forge it. If you don’t want to put the money into the “01” then I would just suggest full bolt on with a tune and call it a day. My stock engine went 238 miles on #8 of boost before I broke ringlands in two pistons. And once I started building everything was like well if I’m here I might as well do this and while that’s there might as well get that done to. Before I knew it I was balls deep into a full on build and had enough money in it to buy a small two bedroom home. Don’t get me wrong I have no regrets other than the little bit of debt it strapped me to. But that all goes out the window when I yank it from 1st to 3rd. Sorry so long winded. Happy holidays.
My 2V lived a long time on 12#s of boost from a D1. It made 440w. I kept it under 6200rpm though it was a pretty conservative tune. I’m surprised your SBE only lasted that long on a measly 8#. That stinks but you got a much better setup in the end.
What pulley are you running your D1? I miss the centri setup. The BOV noise, the whistle at idle, the freight train pull above 4000rpms. Such a fun blower!
4.15 on the blower and IW 10% OD on the crank. And I ran the nuts off mine it was so much of a culture shock to me I couldn’t help it. Lotta 7k rpm whackins lol.
Thank you for this post. What you experienced is pretty much what I'm trying to avoid. I'm pretty easy to please so if it can live at 400 for a long time that would be great. Do you have any idea how much hp you made on 8#?
At 8psi it made 470 whp.
ChenZhenFromJingWu
New Member
I'm in the same boat, kinda. Bought an 01 for sort of a project for me and my son. Found out it had an iron block, cast crank and a bunch of stripped aluminum bolt holes in the heads.
It eventually spun a bearing. So we got a shortblock. It was used but fully forged with a teskid block, arp bolts/studs and the orignal kellogg crank. Wanted to give the car back some of what makes it a cobra.
Me and my son pulled it apart. Checked clearances/tolerances. put it in and replaced a bunch of stuff along the way.
Car runs great now, but its forged and has 4.10s. If i put FI on it. Im going to want to swap the gears again. Im not looking foward to messing with the rear end right now. Just put the 4.10s in about 6 months ago.
So I went to the junkyard and got some 05 aviator heads. Gonna build em up outside the car and eventually swap them out with the stripped out, high mileage OEM heads. It makes sense to do that before thinking about FI anyway.
So ill be ridin around on full forged, N/A engine for a while. Got a little time to figure it out.
It eventually spun a bearing. So we got a shortblock. It was used but fully forged with a teskid block, arp bolts/studs and the orignal kellogg crank. Wanted to give the car back some of what makes it a cobra.
Me and my son pulled it apart. Checked clearances/tolerances. put it in and replaced a bunch of stuff along the way.
Car runs great now, but its forged and has 4.10s. If i put FI on it. Im going to want to swap the gears again. Im not looking foward to messing with the rear end right now. Just put the 4.10s in about 6 months ago.
So I went to the junkyard and got some 05 aviator heads. Gonna build em up outside the car and eventually swap them out with the stripped out, high mileage OEM heads. It makes sense to do that before thinking about FI anyway.
So ill be ridin around on full forged, N/A engine for a while. Got a little time to figure it out.
4.10s will be fine. I wouldn’t change them especially if you go with a centrifugal supercharger. 4.10s aren’t as bad in cobras since the rev a lot higher than the 2Vs. Just my dumb opinion though.
Fwiw, I loved my 2V with a centri and 4.10s. It was a lot of fun to drive at 450w.
I have 410’s in mine and I love them. It gives my car that low end pull while it seems like it never ends all the way to 7k. That’s the beauty of the centri blower.
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Was that an 01 cobra if so someone took all the goodies out by the sounds of it. All 01 cobras came with a wap block some teksid in the early production and a Kellogg forged crank.
Hmm... So getting down to 400whp would be a challenge.
Yup. 450+ RWHP with 8# is the general rule. You could drop the poundage to something less.
The NA SVT Recipe with cams gets you at ~360 RWHP NA...that's with bolt-ons and cams.
nasvt has an article in this forum to get more NA, but you need to build.
+1 to that. I read that list also and it kinda motivated my decision to say heck with it and go big or go home. By the time you take the na recipe list to the max boosting seemed to be a better option unless someone really wants to squeeze out 40 hp with all that money.
I got 3.73 with the idea of getting a procharger, but then heard stories of the boosted motors breaking and costing more money.
Then I started gather up Todd Warren, na svt, quotes on NA mods and making a list...which he later approved.
I hear you though...
I still like the NA route though you get less for the money, but it's just the layering of mods that appeals to me. I appreciate those builds a bit more.
ChenZhenFromJingWu
New Member
Yup.
Someone did a swap out with an iron shortblock.
Now it has its kellogg crank and alum block back.
ChenZhenFromJingWu
New Member
Yeah the 4.10s will stay in for now.
I'm probably going the centri route if theres a chance it can live with the 410s. And ill have a chance to see for myself if they need to be swapped.
Worried it'll be spin city.
A centri will love the 4.10's. You'll need a good tire with that kind of set up. I ran drag radials for years, even on my daily.
The D1 will easily clear 600 on E85. Either it's a stingy dyno or conservative tune and/or low boost.
The guy that bought my 01 dropped a built N/A engine in it. Ported heads, big cams, intake, etc. I think it revved to 7500rpm. It made around 435rwhp.
I knew I'd never be happy with 400's so I went straight to boost. And learned a lot.....
The D1 will easily clear 600 on E85. Either it's a stingy dyno or conservative tune and/or low boost.
The guy that bought my 01 dropped a built N/A engine in it. Ported heads, big cams, intake, etc. I think it revved to 7500rpm. It made around 435rwhp.
I knew I'd never be happy with 400's so I went straight to boost. And learned a lot.....
With a 4K budget you are looking at a used procharger kit and tune. Stay at 400-425 and the motor under 3k will be no more stressed than it would have been NA. If you don’t drag race and it’s a weekend cruiser with conservative timing the motor will be fine. Compression and leak down test before anything IMO.
Cams are expensive and expensive to install and unless you are positive you are staying NA they are not a good benefit / dollar ratio item.
If you want to go any other route I would go the NA SVT route and add gears and some bushings in the rear end, lowering springs and a short throw shifter.
You can pull the rear yourself for the bushings and just hand off the pumpkin to the guy doing the gears. Saves a few bucks with them not having to drop the irs. Not a bad job just have 4 jack stands for the rear end cradle and wood blocks to help position it.
At 4K you have no budget for a clutch if FI and if you go FI expect to have to get a better clutch sooner than later.
Cams are expensive and expensive to install and unless you are positive you are staying NA they are not a good benefit / dollar ratio item.
If you want to go any other route I would go the NA SVT route and add gears and some bushings in the rear end, lowering springs and a short throw shifter.
You can pull the rear yourself for the bushings and just hand off the pumpkin to the guy doing the gears. Saves a few bucks with them not having to drop the irs. Not a bad job just have 4 jack stands for the rear end cradle and wood blocks to help position it.
At 4K you have no budget for a clutch if FI and if you go FI expect to have to get a better clutch sooner than later.
I Eaton swapped my 01 10 years ago on the stock motor and it's been fine. It's a street car that sees maybe 2k miles a year. Usually a quick pull or two each time I take it out.
Stock pulley and stock 03 fuel system it makes 440 rwhp. Have 4.30 gears and with a drag radial ran 12.0 @ 117. Not that fast but fun the street.
Stock pulley and stock 03 fuel system it makes 440 rwhp. Have 4.30 gears and with a drag radial ran 12.0 @ 117. Not that fast but fun the street.
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