Looking for build direction for a 01 Cobra

[5.0 Hatch]

I bought an 01 Cobra a few years back with a number of issues with a long term plan to coyote swap it. I've since worked all of the issues out of it and it runs near perfect now. Looking at coyote swaps, it just doesn't make since to me to go through with it from a financial standpoint so I'm moving forward with the 4.6 platform.

Right now the car is stock with 187k miles. A lot of miles but no issues. I'm thinking the following options.

1. Supercharger the stock engine and keep it around 400rwhp and hope it stays together.
2. Rebuild what I have now with coyote rods, higher compression pistons and a set of cams. Maybe make 340rwhp?

I'm not a drag racer and really just take the car out on weekends so big hp isn't really what I'm after. However, I've had many mustangs over the years and this is my first 4v which is very unimpressive in stock form.

 

[robvas]

Coyote rods, forged pistons, used novi 2000 or an S trim, front mount, fuel system, clutch, maybe stick some 96-98 intake cams in and make 550-600 all day long on pump

 

[01yellercobra]

I doubt you'll need the coyote rods if you stay N/A. Have you done a compression or leak down test on the engine? A small blower at low boost would be the easiest route to take.

 

[cobracide]

With a CAI, underdrive pulleys, performance exhaust i made close to 318hp on the dyno with my 2001 Cobra.

Bassani x with magnaflow catback, sounded good but if I was to do it again it would be with an H with chambered mufflers like my 2003. A deeper, better sound for me. The x combo popped too much.

 

[2003RedfireVert]

Boost it now. Keep it around 8-10lbs. It will hold up for a while. Once it blows buy a gen 2 Coyote car.

 

[5.0 Hatch]

I doubt you'll need the coyote rods if you stay N/A. Have you done a compression or leak down test on the engine? A small blower at low boost would be the easiest route to take.

No I haven't done a compression test. I guess it would be wise to do so before a blower

 

[cobracide]

The hypereutectic pistons are glass, I would never boost a 2001 cobra on a stock engine. Some people have had success for a few years, but its a ticking time bomb.

 

[notchstang92]

If you boosted it and kept it at 8#s you would probably never have an issue if you kept low timing and had a good fuel system. You'd probably spend more trying to make mid 300s NA and this way you'd be in the low 400s for rwhp and high 300-low 400 for rwtq. A eaton swap would get you there, but I think getting a used centrifugal supercharger kit would probably be cheaper and a little easier of an install.

 

[5.0 Hatch]

If you boosted it and kept it at 8#s you would probably never have an issue if you kept low timing and had a good fuel system. You'd probably spend more trying to make mid 300s NA and this way you'd be in the low 400s for rwhp and high 300-low 400 for rwtq. A eaton swap would get you there, but I think getting a used centrifugal supercharger kit would probably be cheaper and a little easier of an install.

The general thought is 450 is where things get questionable which is what is steering me to try and get it down to 400 with a vortech and hopefully it holds.

 

[White95]

What’s your proposed budget?

 

[5.0 Hatch]

What’s your proposed budget?

Roughly 4k or so.

 

[cobracide]

Roughly 4k or so.

Just forge the bottom end then. The aluminum block will take you to 500-550hp.

 

[White95]

Coyote rods, forged pistons, used novi 2000 or an S trim, front mount, fuel system, clutch, maybe stick some 96-98 intake cams in and make 550-600 all day long on pump

This is accurate.

 

[5.0 Hatch]

Thanks guys. I wouldn't go forged and blower since that's realistically close to 10k. I wouldn't feel comfortable putting that much into a 01.

 

[01yellercobra]

Just forge the bottom end then. The aluminum block will take you to 500-550hp.

The WAP block will take a lot more than that. I've seen 700-800 easy. I'm sure it'll take more. It's not as strong as the Teksid or Nemak, but 550 is way under what it can handle. The weak point in these engines is the rods and pistons.

IMO, it comes down to your budget and skills. 4K isn't a whole lot to play with either way. If you want N/A power then yeah, it's going to be compression, cams, and RPM. Cams alone will eat up a good chunk of your budget. But being N/A you can stick with the hyperutetic pistons while bumping the compression a little. I wouldn't spin it to 9k, but they would live. How much of the engine build can you do yourself though? If you can pull it apart yourself then you're ahead of the game. If you'd need to drop it off somewhere to get the work done it gets expensive quick.

For your goals I would do a leak down test on the engine. The mileage doesn't mean anything as long as it's been taken care of. If the numbers are good I'd source a good used centri set up. I'm partial to Procharger myself. A P1 will hit your goals no problem. Just make sure you run an intercooler with whatever kit you get. Keep the boost under 10psi and you should be ok. Plus at that level you shouldn't have too much issue with belt alignment. Track down a slot style MAF and run it blow through. Your tuner will thank you. A 340lph pump and soome 03/04 39lb injectors and you should be good to go.

 

[5.0 Hatch]

The WAP block will take a lot more than that. I've seen 700-800 easy. I'm sure it'll take more. It's not as strong as the Teksid or Nemak, but 550 is way under what it can handle. The weak point in these engines is the rods and pistons.

My car has a Teksid. As you said, either block will handle whatever. It's the internals.

IMO, it comes down to your budget and skills. 4K isn't a whole lot to play with either way. If you want N/A power then yeah, it's going to be compression, cams, and RPM. Cams alone will eat up a good chunk of your budget. But being N/A you can stick with the hyperutetic pistons while bumping the compression a little. I wouldn't spin it to 9k, but they would live. How much of the engine build can you do yourself though? If you can pull it apart yourself then you're ahead of the game. If you'd need to drop it off somewhere to get the work done it gets expensive quick.

I'd be removing the engine from the car. My neighbor owns a machine shop so he can do the assembly at home for a decent discount.

For your goals I would do a leak down test on the engine. The mileage doesn't mean anything as long as it's been taken care of. If the numbers are good I'd source a good used centri set up. I'm partial to Procharger myself. A P1 will hit your goals no problem. Just make sure you run an intercooler with whatever kit you get. Keep the boost under 10psi and you should be ok. Plus at that level you shouldn't have too much issue with belt alignment. Track down a slot style MAF and run it blow through. Your tuner will thank you. A 340lph pump and soome 03/04 39lb injectors and you should be good to go.

I'm starting to lean this way as well. I have a feeling a budget N/A build would be a disappointment. The car only traps 102mph as it sits. My 01 Bullitt trapped 103mph stock and 108mph with cams and 3.73s. I should have stayed 2v.

 

[01yellercobra]

Throw some 4.10's in the Cobra. That'll wake it up.

The 99/01 was never a good quarter mile car from the factory. They weren't designed for it. With the 3.27's they're really finicky to get off the line. The 4V has way more potential than any 2V.

 

[2003RedfireVert]

Boost and gears will make that car a ton of run. It will still be slow to todays standards but it will be fun to drive.

 

[shurur]

First, It really comes down to whether you want to go FI or NA, as there is very little overlap in the HP mods.

Most go FI and yet continue to post in the the New Edge Cobra forum....even though they essentially have a Terminator of sorts... just saying..

I enjoy seeing the NA mod threads, though they are becoming few and far between as time goes by.

 

[robvas]

Andrew Lavender is running a WAP block still isn't he? He runs what 7's or is he going faster now