by CY98Cobra
Ok, lets get started
-Jack up the front end and remove the wheels, calipers, rotors, abs sensors, struts and swaybar endlinks from both sides.
-Remove the springs and Tie Rod ends also.
-Unbolt the steering rack, swing forward and tie to the swaybar. DO NOT disconnect the lines.
-Support the motor from above. I used a STB with a chain looped around it and through the alternator bracket.
-Mark the k-member where it sits on the framerail. This is so everything will be aligned right when you put it back to gether.
-Remove the nuts that secure the motor mount to the k-member. There is a hole in the k-member behind where the spring sits.
-Place a jack under the center of the k-member and remove the 8 k-member bolts. 2 above each spring and two on each framerail at the back.
-Lower the jack, being careful not to lose the k-member. It isn't very heavy, just awkward. Two people would be best for this.
-Place a block of wood on the jack and place it under the edge of the oil pan, where the bolts are. This will help support the motor.
-Remove the mid pipe.
-Remove the stock manifolds. Remove the EGR tube and smog pump line on each side.
-Remove the starter.
-Remove the dipstick tube from the oil pan.
-Remove the mounter mount from the block.
-Place the headers onto the block and finger tighten a couple bolts to hold it in. Use the stock stud and nut where possible. There is a plce on the drivers side where you will have to use a BBK bolt.
-Install the bolts through the header and into the block. You can use high temp. loctite to keep the bolts from backing out. Don't forget to reinstall the dip stick tube when installing the bolts. Reinstall the EGR and smog pump lines.
-Reinstall the motor mounts. I think I had to grind down a mounter mount bolt on the drivers side as well to get it to go back on.
-Install the new midpipe.
-Reinstall the starter
-Remove the jack from under the oil pan.
-Jack the k-member into place, aligning it with the marks you made, and install the bolts.
-Tighten the motor mounts.
-Reinstall the steering rack, springs, tie rod ends, sway bar endlinks, rotors, calipers, abs sensors and struts.
-Take it for a slow test drive to make sure everything is tight and in line.
I think that's it. I may have missed a few things, that's the jist of it though.
Overall this isn't a hard job, just very time consuming. If you don't have a lift plan on taking a good 10 hours or so. It took me and a buddy 6 hours without stopping. I would never attempt without dropping the K. We had the k-member on the ground in an hour and a half.
If you have any questions feel free to PM or email me [email protected]. I'll be glad to help.
Also, if you plan on getting a tubular k-member this would be a good time to install it.
Ok, lets get started
-Jack up the front end and remove the wheels, calipers, rotors, abs sensors, struts and swaybar endlinks from both sides.
-Remove the springs and Tie Rod ends also.
-Unbolt the steering rack, swing forward and tie to the swaybar. DO NOT disconnect the lines.
-Support the motor from above. I used a STB with a chain looped around it and through the alternator bracket.
-Mark the k-member where it sits on the framerail. This is so everything will be aligned right when you put it back to gether.
-Remove the nuts that secure the motor mount to the k-member. There is a hole in the k-member behind where the spring sits.
-Place a jack under the center of the k-member and remove the 8 k-member bolts. 2 above each spring and two on each framerail at the back.
-Lower the jack, being careful not to lose the k-member. It isn't very heavy, just awkward. Two people would be best for this.
-Place a block of wood on the jack and place it under the edge of the oil pan, where the bolts are. This will help support the motor.
-Remove the mid pipe.
-Remove the stock manifolds. Remove the EGR tube and smog pump line on each side.
-Remove the starter.
-Remove the dipstick tube from the oil pan.
-Remove the mounter mount from the block.
-Place the headers onto the block and finger tighten a couple bolts to hold it in. Use the stock stud and nut where possible. There is a plce on the drivers side where you will have to use a BBK bolt.
-Install the bolts through the header and into the block. You can use high temp. loctite to keep the bolts from backing out. Don't forget to reinstall the dip stick tube when installing the bolts. Reinstall the EGR and smog pump lines.
-Reinstall the motor mounts. I think I had to grind down a mounter mount bolt on the drivers side as well to get it to go back on.
-Install the new midpipe.
-Reinstall the starter
-Remove the jack from under the oil pan.
-Jack the k-member into place, aligning it with the marks you made, and install the bolts.
-Tighten the motor mounts.
-Reinstall the steering rack, springs, tie rod ends, sway bar endlinks, rotors, calipers, abs sensors and struts.
-Take it for a slow test drive to make sure everything is tight and in line.
I think that's it. I may have missed a few things, that's the jist of it though.
Overall this isn't a hard job, just very time consuming. If you don't have a lift plan on taking a good 10 hours or so. It took me and a buddy 6 hours without stopping. I would never attempt without dropping the K. We had the k-member on the ground in an hour and a half.
If you have any questions feel free to PM or email me [email protected]. I'll be glad to help.
Also, if you plan on getting a tubular k-member this would be a good time to install it.
