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Longtube install

Discussion in 'How-To' started by NVENEM8U, Apr 19, 2007.

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  1. NVENEM8U

    NVENEM8U Bust'n ass since 1996 Established Member

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    by CY98Cobra

    Ok, lets get started
    -Jack up the front end and remove the wheels, calipers, rotors, abs sensors, struts and swaybar endlinks from both sides.
    -Remove the springs and Tie Rod ends also.
    -Unbolt the steering rack, swing forward and tie to the swaybar. DO NOT disconnect the lines.
    -Support the motor from above. I used a STB with a chain looped around it and through the alternator bracket.
    -Mark the k-member where it sits on the framerail. This is so everything will be aligned right when you put it back to gether.
    -Remove the nuts that secure the motor mount to the k-member. There is a hole in the k-member behind where the spring sits.
    -Place a jack under the center of the k-member and remove the 8 k-member bolts. 2 above each spring and two on each framerail at the back.
    -Lower the jack, being careful not to lose the k-member. It isn't very heavy, just awkward. Two people would be best for this.
    -Place a block of wood on the jack and place it under the edge of the oil pan, where the bolts are. This will help support the motor.
    -Remove the mid pipe.
    -Remove the stock manifolds. Remove the EGR tube and smog pump line on each side.
    -Remove the starter.
    -Remove the dipstick tube from the oil pan.
    -Remove the mounter mount from the block.
    -Place the headers onto the block and finger tighten a couple bolts to hold it in. Use the stock stud and nut where possible. There is a plce on the drivers side where you will have to use a BBK bolt.
    -Install the bolts through the header and into the block. You can use high temp. loctite to keep the bolts from backing out. Don't forget to reinstall the dip stick tube when installing the bolts. Reinstall the EGR and smog pump lines.
    -Reinstall the motor mounts. I think I had to grind down a mounter mount bolt on the drivers side as well to get it to go back on.
    -Install the new midpipe.
    -Reinstall the starter
    -Remove the jack from under the oil pan.
    -Jack the k-member into place, aligning it with the marks you made, and install the bolts.
    -Tighten the motor mounts.
    -Reinstall the steering rack, springs, tie rod ends, sway bar endlinks, rotors, calipers, abs sensors and struts.
    -Take it for a slow test drive to make sure everything is tight and in line.
    I think that's it. I may have missed a few things, that's the jist of it though.

    Overall this isn't a hard job, just very time consuming. If you don't have a lift plan on taking a good 10 hours or so. It took me and a buddy 6 hours without stopping. I would never attempt without dropping the K. We had the k-member on the ground in an hour and a half.

    If you have any questions feel free to PM or email me [email protected]. I'll be glad to help.

    Also, if you plan on getting a tubular k-member this would be a good time to install it.
     
  2. na svt

    na svt say no to power adders Established Member

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    I suggest that the block of wood get placed directly under the pan.

    Also:
    - add "disconnect steering shaft from steering rack."

    - place block of wood under the engine and the lower K member while allowing engine to sit on the block of wood.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2007
  3. NVENEM8U

    NVENEM8U Bust'n ass since 1996 Established Member

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    That was my method too
     
  4. NVENEM8U

    NVENEM8U Bust'n ass since 1996 Established Member

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    That was my method too
     
  5. rgurleyjr

    rgurleyjr Random SVT Poster Established Member

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    Another thing I have to add is that if you have a convertible, you will either need to cut one coil off your stock springs or get springs at least 1" shorter. I tried every tool possible but couldn't get the stock springs back in.
     
  6. ju015dd

    ju015dd 64 valves Established Member

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    could you just take the strut loose from the top nut under the hood and leave the springs and struts connected and drop it all out with the k? just wandering because it looks like it would save some time.
     
  7. rgurleyjr

    rgurleyjr Random SVT Poster Established Member

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    I'm not sure what you mean about removing the strut itself, it needs to stay in place. The springs are going to come out as long as the K-member is getting dropped.
     
  8. fourvalvegt

    fourvalvegt New Member Established Member

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    you can pop the spindle off the ball joint so you dont have to touch the brakes, and you can leave the springs in place
     
  9. ju015dd

    ju015dd 64 valves Established Member

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    ;-)
     
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