loctite flywheel?

prttyboyfloyd

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Gentleman I just finished bolting up my RXT and need to know if i should have used loctite on the flywheel bolts. From the factory, they appear to not have any on them. Is this something I should unbolt the clutch and do?

And does unbolting the pressure plate again once its been torqued down screw anything up? I read there where crush washers in it somewhere that crush in once is torqued
 

SlowSVT

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The bolts from the factory have lock-tite on the threads. You don't even want to consider the implications of the bolts backing out of the flywheel on a blown 4.6. An aluminum flywheel that can't get torqued like a steel one makes this even more important.

No problem removing the bolts and re-torquing them. You have to be more careful with aluminum threads because they are more prone to "stretch". I don't think you want to use "red" lock-tite on aluminum threads (blue maybe a better choice) as it may strip or damage the threads when you "attempt" to remove them. The factory thread locker is orange and I don't know what it locking characteristics are. Call the clutch manufacturer and see what they recommend.
 

prttyboyfloyd

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Mcleod said not to and the factory service manual does not call for it as well. It did not have any on it from the factory. So I wont be loctiting it now that its torqued to spec.
 

TRBO VNM

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You don't have to. I use blue on the flywheel for good measure and use new bolts for the PP. If someone goes with ARP PP bolts then I put red on them since it is from the factory.
 

SlowSVT

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Mcleod said not to and the factory service manual does not call for it as well. It did not have any on it from the factory. So I wont be loctiting it now that its torqued to spec.

Did Mcleod state "why not"?

Military equipment requires 2 forms on thread locking on fasteners with lock-tite and a lock washer being the most popular method. I would be astounded if MIL-SPEC prohibited lock-tite from being used in a heavy rotating assembly spinning at high rpm's.

This is one area I would sleep better knowing my flywheel bolts have thread lock applied (blue). What is the downside using it :shrug:
 

prttyboyfloyd

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They didn't specify. the downside is the clutch is half together already, I'd have to rip everything apart. (including the nightmare of a time i had with the bell housing and starter bolts) My thought process was since it didnt have it from the factory, it didn't need it. I've read other people saying how it alters the torque value, another about how the bolts only encounter sheer forces due to spinning and there for wouldn't back out ect. ect. I personally have no idea. It seems like a mixed bag of some people who are doing it and others that are not. Its definitly to factory spec at the moment, so thats kinda what im leaning on.
 

08mojo

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The bolts from the factory have lock-tite on the threads. You don't even want to consider the implications of the bolts backing out of the flywheel on a blown 4.6. An aluminum flywheel that can't get torqued like a steel one makes this even more important.

No problem removing the bolts and re-torquing them. You have to be more careful with aluminum threads because they are more prone to "stretch". I don't think you want to use "red" lock-tite on aluminum threads (blue maybe a better choice) as it may strip or damage the threads when you "attempt" to remove them. The factory thread locker is orange and I don't know what it locking characteristics are. Call the clutch manufacturer and see what they recommend.

There are no aluminum threads...all steel. The bolts thread into the crankshaft, not the flywheel.

They didn't specify. the downside is the clutch is half together already, I'd have to rip everything apart. (including the nightmare of a time i had with the bell housing and starter bolts) My thought process was since it didnt have it from the factory, it didn't need it. I've read other people saying how it alters the torque value, another about how the bolts only encounter sheer forces due to spinning and there for wouldn't back out ect. ect. I personally have no idea. It seems like a mixed bag of some people who are doing it and others that are not. Its definitly to factory spec at the moment, so thats kinda what im leaning on.

It is true the bolts are primarily in shear. Be sure to re-use the steel plate that sandwiches between the bolt heads and flywheel. If you did not reuse that pieces, take it all back apart! If you only forgot loctite and the bolts are torqued properly, then you should be okay.
 

prttyboyfloyd

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There are no aluminum threads...all steel. The bolts thread into the crankshaft, not the flywheel.



It is true the bolts are primarily in shear. Be sure to re-use the steel plate that sandwiches between the bolt heads and flywheel. If you did not reuse that pieces, take it all back apart! If you only forgot loctite and the bolts are torqued properly, then you should be okay.

Yessir, definitly put that sucker back in, took me a few minutes to line that up and hold the flywheel on simultaniously.
 

SlowSVT

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There are no aluminum threads...all steel. The bolts thread into the crankshaft, not the flywheel.

What do the PP bolts thread into?

You didn't honestly think I was referring to the crankshaft flange?

I lock-tite anything connected to spinning clutch assy.
 

prttyboyfloyd

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What do the PP bolts thread into?

You didn't honestly think I was referring to the crankshaft flange?

I lock-tite anything connected to spinning clutch assy.




Now the PP had loctie on them from the factory...but mccleod explicitly states not to use it on them and they use lock washers instead.
 

RussZTT

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Ive done so many clutch jobs, engine builds, auto installs and never used them on flywheel bolts. It wont hurt but not needed.
 

SlowSVT

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Now the PP had loctie on them from the factory...but mccleod explicitly states not to use it on them and they use lock washers instead.

yea, I think I got a bit confused seeing lock-tite on the PP bolts and equated them to the flywheel bolts.

As TT said, It can't hurt.
 

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