So I just got my new built motor back in the car. I have a 2.6 kb with all the supporting mods. Pump tune is at 18 and race is at 24. I put tr6s in the car. I have heard from some people that these will not be cold enough. I also gapped them at 28. Will these plugs work or do i need to go with the tr7ix. Should I pull these out and gap them a little tighter? Thanks for the help guys
Little confused about what plugs to run.(2 boost levels)
- Thread starter tohighpsi
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TR6 is probably OK with that gap at 18psi, but at 24 is where you should probably be gapped down some and running the colder plug.
There is a large difference between the two boost levels.
Copper plugs are fairly cheap so having two sets should not be a problem.
I would plan on reading them for detonation semi-regularly and putting fresh back in so you have a clean insulator to start your readings over again.
With that user name I guess I am not surprised to see "new built motor".
There is a large difference between the two boost levels.
Copper plugs are fairly cheap so having two sets should not be a problem.
I would plan on reading them for detonation semi-regularly and putting fresh back in so you have a clean insulator to start your readings over again.
With that user name I guess I am not surprised to see "new built motor".
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Dont mean to hijack the thread at all ,just a quick question
when lookin at plugs for signs of detonation.What are you lookin for ?
Did a little more re search. They dont make a tr7 they do make a NGK BR7EF. Which is colder. A user in another thread said that's what he suggest for 20+psi. When I called ngk they said it had a 19mm reach compared to 17.55 reach on the tr6s and stock plugs. I really dont want to run iridium so will the br73f work?
As far as the blown motor thing looooooooooooooong story. Short version is I have only put 1000 miles on the car. Blew a head gasket and melted the hell out of a piston all on the same cylinder. The tune is legit the car has a bug in it somewhere. Had the injectors sent of the be flowed and there where fine. Going back on the dyno and to the tuner soon as its broke in so he can find out whats wrong.
As far as the blown motor thing looooooooooooooong story. Short version is I have only put 1000 miles on the car. Blew a head gasket and melted the hell out of a piston all on the same cylinder. The tune is legit the car has a bug in it somewhere. Had the injectors sent of the be flowed and there where fine. Going back on the dyno and to the tuner soon as its broke in so he can find out whats wrong.
BR7EF is what I run. Good experiences.
reading the timing on the plugs is much easier on a dyno but you can do it on the street. you need to do a wot pull and shut down imediatly, this will leave what is called a timing mark on the strap of the plug. a good mark will fall in the center of the 90 degree of the strap simply put the more timing the more heat so the timing mark will move up the strap twards the head with more timing. anytime you see any porcilin damage (spotting, missing pieces) is detonation.
here is a pic of one of my old spark plugs to show the timing mark you can see in the picture the timing is close but should be backed down about 1 degree
here is a pic of one of my old spark plugs to show the timing mark you can see in the picture the timing is close but should be backed down about 1 degree
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Tiny metallic specs on the center electrode insulator, if it's bad enough, it can crack and chip the insulator, and if it's really bad the ground strap will be melted... sometimes it's GONE, but by then there will be hurt pistons most likely also.
Below is an excellent explanation also.
reading the timing on the plugs is much easier on a dyno but you can do it on the street. you need to do a wot pull and shut down imediatly, this will leave what is called a timing mark on the strap of the plug. a good mark will fall in the center of the 90 degree of the strap simply put the more timing the more heat so the timing mark will move up the strap twards the head with more timing. anytime you see any porcilin damage (spotting, missing pieces) is detonation.
here is a pic of one of my old spark plugs to show the timing mark you can see in the picture the timing is close but should be backed down about 1 degree
So I take it the extra length isnt a problem
My tuner and a buddy with a 3.4 Whipple 800rwhp Cobra recommended the Motorcraft AWSFA-12C plugs. He has 20k miles on them. $About $3/each from the stealership. RockAuto has them for $.78 right now. Put them in a few weeks ago. Idle is so smooth
Wow that sounds like a steal I will have to look into it.
I wondering if my tr6 will be fine though?
With a 2.3 whipple at 21lbs and now with the 2.9 at 23lbs I run the Ngk R5724-9's gapped at 28. I'm going on my second year with these. Posi had a buddy that also ran numerous plugs for a test. This was all done on his friends car with a 3.4 boosting over 20lbs. I never had an issue. This is only if you plan on boosting over 20lbs.
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I had 19k miles on my TR6s, idle was getting a little funky is the reason I swapped
Ngk R5724-9's I just noticed his post. There the same plug. There great and no one seems to use them or even knew they existed.
yup
No the extra length is not a problem.
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