Line Lock Install

[rattle_snake]

After doing some research I decided not to go with the SLP kit for a few reasons:
1) location. Under the MC is a pain to get to and is right next to the exhaust.
2) I'm cheap
3) I like to fab my own stuff

So I ordered just a solenoid and adapter kit from Summit. The summit unit is very, very similar to the Hurst and I assume that they are made in the same factory. I picked up some 8" and 12" brake lines and a pair of 1/8NPT to 3/16 inverted flare fitting at O'Rielly's. I think they also had the M10x1.0 to 3/16 inverted flare adapters but I already bought the the Hurst fitting kit.

I chose to mount the solenoid next to the ABS module. MC1 is the line that goes to the MC front brakes. I fabricated a mounting bracket that also supports the bottom of the solenoid, as the aluminum heat sink extrusion didn't hold it real tight.

Solenoid mounted

I cut some heavy steel wire the same length as the brake lines and pre bent them as a template. The lines are installed back wards in the picture below. The inlet is the top port (connect to MC) and the bottom port should go to the ABS module. This solenoid will not work if installed back wards, don't ask how I know but I am good a bleeding brakes.

I kept the wiring simple. The coil is about 7 ohms meaning that it will draw about 2 amps continuously after the initial surge that creates the magnetic field. I used 16 ga. wire and a located a relay behind the stereo. The coil of the relay is wired to a switched IGN source. The human interface is a N/O momentary switch on a non-curly cord. I had a curly cord on a previous install and didn't like it.

So far I have had no issues with the ABS light. Bleeding the front brakes through the ABS module worked fine and didn't need to be connected to a machine

Happy Burnouts

 

[P49Y-CY]

very nice work! congrats :beer:

where did you decide to mount the button in the cabin?

 

[rider4life350]

very cool.

 

[rattle_snake]

where did you decide to mount the button in the cabin?

As of now the button is on the end of about 4' of wire that exits under the console next to the driver seat. I soldered the connections and covered the switch up with some adhesive style heat shrink. I did not add a indication LED as I can hear the relay and solenoid click.

If I was going to add an LED the only right way to do it would be to run a pair of wires all the way to the solenoid to verify that the voltage is present across the coil itself.

 

[topfueldart]

This looks about 1000 times easier than the SLP, thanks for the writeup!

 

[gabe1530]

wow, im def going with this kit. great write up.

 

[rattle_snake]

The line lock worked great at the strip. Foot brake burnouts with ET streets were inconsistent at best and resulted in bad wheel hop at the beginning of the burn out. Wheel hop is death for half shafts and using the foot brake is hard on the clutch and the brake themselves. The promotion (clutches) web site specifically states not to do disk brake, foot brake burnouts with their 10.5" clutches for a reason.

Using the lock keeps the car strait in the water box and allows both feet to be used to gently start tire spin without hop. Smooth consistent burnouts not only make you think you look cool but allow you to concentrate on the launch itself. Couldn't be happier with this modification. :beer:

 

[P49Y-CY]

The line lock worked great at the strip. Foot brake burnouts with ET streets were inconsistent at best and resulted in bad wheel hop at the beginning of the burn out. Wheel hop is death for half shafts and using the foot brake is hard on the clutch and the brake themselves. The promotion (clutches) web site specifically states not to do disk brake, foot brake burnouts with their 10.5" clutches for a reason.

Using the lock keeps the car strait in the water box and allows both feet to be used to gently start tire spin without hop. Smooth consistent burnouts not only make you think you look cool but allow you to concentrate on the launch itself. Couldn't be happier with this modification. :beer:

that sounds great, congrats! :beer: i have never liked the idea of being both on the gas pedal and the brake pedal at the same time lol

meant to ask - how do you guys like this setup? prbmachining makes an abs delete manifold that incorporates the line lock module right into it. looks like it makes for a very clean install. i bought one and can't wait to install it. he has it setup with a b&m unit. (obviously this only works when you remove the abs)

http://webhosting.web.com/imagelib/...-04 Mustang ABS Delete With B&M Line Lock Kit

Home Of The Original 94-04 Ford Mustang ABS Delete Manifold!

 

[Gamer2Cars]

Subbing for future use


Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app