LFP bolts, changing inner belt.

[lobra97]

I had to cut one off awhile back. Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel, then got a new bolt to take it's place. Not a lot of fun, but that was the only way I could do it. You are not alone.

oh god i hope not. i just spent another $20 on those grabit pro bits i posted lol.

since i need room to drill there i bought a bucket for coolant so i can change out my t stat with a Reich 170. is it just plug and play or do i need to adjust anything with a handheld etc? this is turning into a pain in the ass....

i will drain the fluid after work and make room for the drill...god damn you Cobra.

 

[Shadow Grey 03]

oh god i hope not. i just spent another $20 on those grabit pro bits i posted lol.

since i need room to drill there i bought a bucket for coolant so i can change out my t stat with a Reich 170. is it just plug and play or do i need to adjust anything with a handheld etc? this is turning into a pain in the ass....

i will drain the fluid after work and make room for the drill...god damn you Cobra.

I found out on Saturday that my intercooler was toast and had to pull the blower. Waiting on the "new" one to show up now. 1st track day of the year is possibly this Saturday. Nothing like finally being able to get the car out, only to have it go back in the garage!! It was 70 here yesterday too.

 

[Kyle_KleinSS]

You need to adjust the fan settings. There should have been a paper with your t stat, at least mine had one.

 

[cj428mach]

I would do what Jason mentioned. Once the head of the bolt is gone you can remove the bracket then use vice grips on whats left of the bolt and hope it comes out.

 

[03 DSG Snake]

Subbed for results.

 

[lobra97]

Kyle, do you still have the t stat papers? Ichecked the website and the sticky and didnt find anything on adjusting the fans

 

[CobraLucci]

I have a couple grabits and they are junk. Like the other guy said try knocking the head and then working the stuf after removing the bracket. If not youll need a quality reverse drill bit and extractor. But be careful because these extractors can break inside the bolt being drilled and if they doooo... good luck. Or you can try drilling thru it going a size up at a time. That may work. Keep us posted!

 

[lobra97]

Ok well.....its off!



So i went ahead and drained all my coolant since i will be installing my reich T stat anyways. I needed a little more room and decided to take the fan out as well which gave me a lot of room. those grab its i bought were junk at lowes or at least in this instance...did zero jack shit but get me madder. i decided to call my neighbor to help and i'm glad i did. after messing around with different ideas and try the grab its again we had agreed to just cut the bushing and yolo it. he was able to jam a torqs head in with a hammer on the bottom bolt and used a ratchet and surprisingly it came right off....like it was no big deal. now, for the left bolt.

after we both got frustrated we decided gave it one last shot with a dremel and cut deep. i didn't want to break it so i let him do it which turns out he is a welder. so he cut a deep line as shown below, before, after

after that we used a thick but stubby flat head and squeezed it with some vice grips. after banging the cage, WD40, and pulling the cage it started to give way! we did it for another 10 minutes and it finally came undone! now that i have it removed i am going to replace three of the pulleys shown below. the left upper, the top pulley, and the one to the right. I don't want to do this ever again so i'm going to replace them all while i can. he said he recommended changing the bearing on the tensioners while they are out instead of buying 2 new tensioners and/or doing this shit again. he was a huge help and i owe him a case of beer for sure. stupid ass bolts. So the pulleys, new bolts for the cage, coolant, and install of the t stat. stayed tuned......lol

 

[Tractionless1]

Gotta love when Co's use cheap material allen heads! Ducati is guilty of it on so many occasions, ask me how I know. I delete allens whenever possible, nothing but a PITA.

 

[01yellercobra]

Might be worth putting some antisieze on the new bolts just in case.

 

[lobra97]

Def. using antiseize and tractionless1 i thought about diff types of head bolts to replace them ya know same length maybe with a socket head. Not sure if it would sit right or if i need hex to fix just right. Going to a hardware shop tomorrow to see if theres anything i can get. $24 is a lot for Metco bolts. If i must then i will, i know they have quality stuff.

 

[lobra97]

so i drained my hose to get the reich t stat in and guess what????? nothing inside the hose! i double checked and sure enough no t stat just a hollow hose. my car over heated a while back but i had a flush done and it seemed to be fine. can they run with out t stats?


also i searched on here and the spring siide goes toward the passenger side if i read right? so put the t stat in, spring side towards the passenger, and then put the o ring before closing and bolting it back up?

 

[Kyle_KleinSS]

I am not positive. I know on my diesel the t stat helps direct the coolant flow. With where our t stat is located it probably makes no difference. Just longer warmup times. And yes I have the paper. If you need a copy shoot me a pm with your email. I can run to my brothers and grab it and scan it and email it to you.

 

[lobra97]

I got it kyle, it was in the box! I hadnt even notice it since i bought it so long ago. I read another thread and it looks like spring side to the passenger side. Theres a late model rest video i found and it looks about the same way since they installed a reg t stat. Thanks man, youve helped alot.

 

[lobra97]

alrighty, everything is pulled apart and laid out ready to be reassembled. my tensioner pulleys are noises and done, i spun them and was not happy. is there anyway to replace the bearings or would it be better just to buy 2 new tensioners and be done with it? still seems to be good tension when i pulled them down just really noisy. i cleaned up a lot of greasy parts as well, anything else i should do before i button it all back up that y'all can think of?

 

[lobra97]

I ended up findinng the pulley for both tensioners. The SC is actually the same as a 00ford f150 SOHC. NAPa ended up being a huge help for me vice oriellys. So i replaced both tensioners pulleys and am buttoning her back up. Turns out the terminator tensioners are not listed at NAPA or oriellys to replace, just the whole piece which is $65.they had to open. Few boxes to find the matching parts for both but we got it done.