I to have the CF Dual Puck and will see how it does this weekend at the track now that I have added ET Streets and a 2lb lower. 450 miles on it and i have hit it on the street a few times and it spins the ET Streets in 2nd and 3rd so it seems to be holding fine, true test will be a sticky track and clean powershifts!!!
Lets talk about input chafts and Clutches... Please I need help...
- Thread starter 03Redfire Cobra
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Its
Its amazing how easy it is to spin those tires when they are not heated up isn't it!! I've done the same thing.. after heating them and with a glued track, let me know if you think the clutch gives ever so slightly, I think it will, especially with your extra torque from that lower! Go get'em Trey!
Jerry
What about tranny output shaft? I have seen some posts here recommending upgrading this too. Allso, how about U-joints?
My plan is to do clutch, TOB & sleve, input shaft at a minimum. Not decided on flywheel and output shaft. Would like to do all at once because of expense of having the tranny pulled. (Also, Apten cooling mod since this requires removal of tranny).
Opinions on aluminum flywheel and anything else??
My plan is to do clutch, TOB & sleve, input shaft at a minimum. Not decided on flywheel and output shaft. Would like to do all at once because of expense of having the tranny pulled. (Also, Apten cooling mod since this requires removal of tranny).
Opinions on aluminum flywheel and anything else??
I am taking my car into Ford for the TSB on the TOB and they are installing the centerforce DF clutch for me-----Which TOB should I have them install, the centerforce one or Fords TOB----which is better?----thank you Scott
CF TOB is working great for me.
Output shaft is a nice to have but nearly as many people have broken those. I've never heard of a U Joint expire yet on these cars either.
Output shaft is a nice to have but nearly as many people have broken those. I've never heard of a U Joint expire yet on these cars either.
Make sure they replace the TOB sleeve, otherwise the TOB will go bad again.
I was dead set on ordering the CF DF, but now im hearing its going to slip? Ugh I wish this was easy!
if your going to drag race, go with the spec stage 4...it has a sprung hub, which youll need to take care of some of the driveline shock
I have the TSB paperwork----Is the TOB sleeve the release bearing guide tube which is the new adaptor cover plate, I gave Ford Advisor the TSB #04-13-4 and he went ahead and ordered what it called for-----
Jerry after watching your passes over and over again I am convinced that you are not seeing clutch slip on launch but it looks and sounds like that is the soft hit of the aluminum flywheel, I have brought this up to several people and I am thinking thats what it is. Dont beleive you will get that bang hit by a bus leave that U want with the aluminum flywheel. I know someone whos car sounded and looked identical to the way your car leaves he went to a steel wheel and it leaves so much harder and he kept the same clutch. Now on the shifts I cant tell if its slipping but that would be easy for you to tell. I have studied that 7teen pass over and over and it just sounds like the flywheel is absorbing the the hit like I have witnessed time and time again with aluminum wheels. Whatcha think???
I think that's a very good point. Sounds right to me.
Interesting... you think the aluminum flywheel isn't as grabby or you think it doesn't store enough energy and is easily brought down in speed and allows the engine to bog and thus a softer hit?
The person who switched to steel, what were the before/after 60' times and what was the setup? I definitely think a steel flywheel stores more energy then aluminum and would be a benefit on the launch, what I don't like is the added wieght of the flywheel after the first 60'
Seems like for drag racing the flywheel wieght issue is 6 one way, half a dozen the other. With steel, what you may gain in 60', you lose in parasitic drag and vice versa for aluminum. The deciding factor then is how heavy is the car and how steep is the gearing (how much propensity to bog is there). Our cars are obviously very heavy and w/ stock 3.55 gears hard to accelerate from a drag racing perspective.ITs very hard for me to describe in words Jerry on the computer, but your car rides out on launch (if U will) there is never that bang and I beleive its the aluminum flywheel softening the hit. Friend of mine has a high revving 331 and had to have an aluminum wheel he just knew it would work, well make a long story short his car left similar to yours he revved high and the car left soft but still 60'd in the mid 1.6's he swapped to a steel wheel and left the clutch alone and he went back out and night and day difference in the way the car left, it was hitting the tires and 60's went to 1.60's with a best of 1.58. If u are smelling a ton of clutch then obviously its the clutch but to me your car is leaving the way it is becase of the flywheel and beleive me i have watched that vid more time than i can think. Another guy who had similar results was sonic03snake i watched some of his passes from a while back when he had the Spec 3 with the stock flywheel and his car rode itself out identical to a T like yours does , he had the steel wheel in for NMRA's and his car left hard as hell and he got new bests in 60's and overal et I am thinking. U should pm him his name is Lou. Bad thing is that I have been told a steel wheel will kill our IRS, thats why I retained my stock wheel. Let me know Jerry what you find out, as well as you make these cars work I know you will get to the bottom of it!
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