Lets talk about input chafts and Clutches... Please I need help...

03Redfire Cobra

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this is the goal: I want to be good in the 10's...


I want a streetable clutch that will last and handle all the power.
Suggestions?????? Price????


Do you think I need to upgrade my input shaft while doing my clutch? Is it neccasary? I have seen a few bent ones, but has anyone broke them? Will running in the 10's bend/break mine?
If so, what brand/type/company should I go with???? Price???
 

mike79

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I just finished looking up all the info for this. I am going with the Centerforce DF clutch assbly, 26 spline input shaft, McCleod TOB sleeve, Diff brace, level 2 halfshafts, Diff bushings. I want to get my car as fast as it can go with the mods I have now, before I do the apten, spray, ect ect. Looking to go high to mid 11's. Good luck.

BTW that clutch can handle up to 600hp, and is streetable (you can slip it out) CEnterforce also has a dual puck clutch, which is for up to 750hp cars, and you really cant slip it.
 

11secCobra

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im going spec stage 4 because it has a sprung hub, which youll need if your drag racing because of the driveline shock when you drop the clutch, and a stock viper input shaft (26spline)
 

mike79

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Its the sleeve the TOB sits on. I have had ford replace the TOB two times, and I dont want to go through this again, so from what I have found, the McCleod unit is built like a tank.
 

mike79

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The Mcleod one is nice. Im going with the one that comes with the CF DF clutch.

BUT, you need to replace the sleeve also. The TOB goes bad because the sleeve is bad. So you need to replace that as well. You can get the OEM one, from D&D for 50 bucks, or get the better one from McCleod, which is a little over 100.
 
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mike79

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You hear a chrping sound from the tranny. If you press the clutch it, sound goes away. Out, chirp chirp chirp.
 

mike79

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The sleeve and a new TOB. If you put the new TOB in, it wont chirp for a while, but it will come back in time. Thats why you do both.
 

Jerryk

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Originally posted by mike79
CEnterforce also has a dual puck clutch, which is for up to 750hp cars, and you really cant slip it.

Have you driven one? I have one in my car and have for the last 4K + miles, you can slip it fine. Its a little grabby but once you learn it you learn how to slip it and you can slip it just fine.

Anytime you go with a grabby clutch and sticky tires, the weak links will all show themselves. If you run slicks or BFG or MT DR's and a grabby clutch like a SPEC 2-5 or CF Dual Friction w/ dual pucks then you SHOULD upgrade to a 26 spline, period.
 

mike79

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Originally posted by Jerryk
Have you driven one? I have one in my car and have for the last 4K + miles, you can slip it fine. Its a little grabby but once you learn it you learn how to slip it and you can slip it just fine.

Anytime you go with a grabby clutch and sticky tires, the weak links will all show themselves. If you run slicks or BFG or MT DR's and a grabby clutch like a SPEC 2-5 or CF Dual Friction w/ dual pucks then you SHOULD upgrade to a 26 spline, period.

Really? The guy from centerforce said that it really couldnt be slipped. Interesting. Why did you choose that one over the DF?
 

fubu795

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I use a RAM Powergrip HD clutch w/ stock aluinum flywheel. Pull consistent 1.58's on dead stock IRS. Clutch does chatter alot on the street, but you can't have the best of both worlds unless you spend a ton of money.

exedy, mcleod.....
 

Jerryk

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Originally posted by mike79
Really? The guy from centerforce said that it really couldnt be slipped. Interesting. Why did you choose that one over the DF?

The Dual Puck IMO is required on our heavy cars w/ mugoo torque. A standard DF is probably equivalent to stock and can't hold up to sticky tires and hard launches and will slip excessively.

My best 60' is 1.63 w/ the CF w/ dual pucks, and I can tell its slipping ever so slightly on launch and on powershifts w/ slicks. A harder hitting clutch is still yet needed like FUBU is running.
 

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