Lets mod this stocker!

Unistang

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Looking all that I can do to get this cobra up and kicking a$$ without dropping major money, and from what I hear, it's pretty easy. Here's the guidelines...

-stay with the eaton for now
-keeping the IRS
-keeping the same fuel setup (bigger injectors is fine with me)

Let me know what you guys have done and the numbers the combo threw down... and if you don't mind, what you dished out. Just trying to look where to get started... I have some vette owning trash talkers that need to put their money where their mouth is (these are the guys that think their stock corvette is the fastest thing known to man... i know you've encountered them. It's usually bought with mom and dad's money).

Thanks
-Nick:pepper:
 

03yllwguy

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Billetflow pulley and idler = $200ish
Tuner w/custom dyno tune = $400
Mid pipe = $200
C/b = $600
460hp 460tq before midpipe... and I easily walk stock C5's and a few C6s.
 

03CobraEG

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03yllwguy said:
Billetflow pulley and idler = $200ish
Tuner w/custom dyno tune = $400
Mid pipe = $200
C/b = $600
460hp 460tq before midpipe... and I easily walk stock C5's and a few C6s.


i walk stock c5's now with just x pipe and catback with fipk
 

jm@ReischePerf

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03yllwguy said:
Billetflow pulley and idler = $200ish
Tuner w/custom dyno tune = $400
Mid pipe = $200
C/b = $600
460hp 460tq before midpipe... and I easily walk stock C5's and a few C6s.
+1

Just the pulley and tune will make most Vettes easy prey, but intake/exhaust is definitely worth the money also.
 

Quick Strike

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It is cheap to make more power in these cars, but getting the power to the pavement and drive-train reliability decrease as you build power. So, you wind up chasing the new power with more money in the drive-train and suspension.

In the beginning, Apten offered a pulley, intake, SC port and EEC tune package for under 1K. Some guys were getting around 500 RWHP and RWTQ with this package. I made 480/480 with this package, but my IRS hopped around like crazy and my MAF was maxed at 6K. I could not go over 6K (or risk engine failure), and every time I tried to take off fast from a stop the back end would bounce around until I got out of it. I had already done SFCs the BF differential brace. Now solid differential bushings, Mathis brackets, poly IRS bushings, springs and shocks were needed.

Then the stock clutch would not hold the power and the input shaft was in danger. Might as well up-grade the tranny, flywheel and clutch - right? Then on to protect the engine with a better MAF, larger injectors and BAP. Need another intake, 4# lower, more porting and retune while we are at it (I like a package deal!). Of course the exhaust needs to be upgraded to take advantage of the new power and reduce restriction.

Then drag radials are needed to keep from spinning (no longer hopping) on the way to the store, but the sticky tires only last a few thousand miles. Forget about driving in the rain if you value you life, but you have finally arrived at a point where you can reliably put all that power to the road. Unfortunately, it is now countless man-hours under the car and 10K later. Half-hafts are now snapping like twigs at the track. Oh well, up-graded shafts are only $1400.

I am very happy with my car, but power alone does not complete the package. Each level of power requires accompanying modifications and compromises for the combination. These will require more $ and will begin to limit the utility of the car. I would just make sure you are aware of the cost and compromises associated with the level of power you are considering - Have fun!
 
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sambandit

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Come up with where you want to be HP wise, or a budget you have to spend, then give me a PM or call. I'd be glad to help you out!
 

Juruense

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Quick Strike said:
Power alone does not complete the package. Each level of power requires accompanying modifications and compromises for the combination. These will require more $ and will begin to limit the utility of the car. I would just make sure you are aware of the cost and compromises associated with the level of power you are considering
Quoted for truth.
 

Unistang

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I was under the impression that these cars were built to handle mods fairly well. I know the IRS is weak, but other than that are you guys telling me that this car can't handle over 500 hp without major supporting mods? I thought i could get by beefing up the IRS and a better HE. But from what I'm hearing I'm in trouble. I was thinking about doing a 2.76 pulley, CAI, HE, x-pipe back and if needed a new MAF and possibly a TB. I didn't even think fuel upgrades were needed on cobras unless you were pumping out some serious numbers. I think that if I get any more agressive that than that (pop on a KB, whipple, or get nuts with a turbo) I'm just going to get a solid along with the input shaft and a new clutch.... thats waaaaay down the road.

-i've been reading mixed feelings on the pulley sizes... what do you guys think of that combo? MAF or TB upgrade needed?
 

03yllwguy

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For the mods you just stated, you will be fine, more than fine... I think the point others are stating is that with the added ponies, you will be working on actually getting the power to the ground with tires and IRS upgrades. Do the mods you stated and don't look back.
 

phillySVT

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Quick Strike said:
It is cheap to make more power in these cars, but getting the power to the pavement and drive-train reliability decrease as you build power. So, you wind up chasing the new power with more money in the drive-train and suspension.

In the beginning, Apten offered a pulley, intake, SC port and EEC tune package for under 1K. Some guys were getting around 500 RWHP and RWTQ with this package. I made 480/480 with this package, but my IRS hopped around like crazy and my MAF was maxed at 6K. I could not go over 6K (or risk engine failure), and every time I tried to take off fast from a stop the back end would bounce around until I got out of it. I had already done SFCs the BF differential brace. Now solid differential bushings, Mathis brackets, poly IRS bushings, springs and shocks were needed.

Then the stock clutch would not hold the power and the input shaft was in danger. Might as well up-grade the tranny, flywheel and clutch - right? Then on to protect the engine with a better MAF, larger injectors and BAP. Need another intake, 4# lower, more porting and retune while we are at it (I like a package deal!). Of course the exhaust needs to be upgraded to take advantage of the new power and reduce restriction.

Then drag radials are needed to keep from spinning (no longer hopping) on the way to the store, but the sticky tires only last a few thousand miles. Forget about driving in the rain if you value you life, but you have finally arrived at a point where you can reliably put all that power to the road. Unfortunately, it is now countless man-hours under the car and 10K later. Half-hafts are now snapping like twigs at the track. Oh well, up-graded shafts are only $1400.

I am very happy with my car, but power alone does not complete the package. Each level of power requires accompanying modifications and compromises for the combination. These will require more $ and will begin to limit the utility of the car. I would just make sure you are aware of the cost and compromises associated with the level of power you are considering - Have fun!

Good post!
 

03Cobra/C5Killr

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Go with the 2.76 pulley, and definatly get the idlers too. Go Billet flow or RR, CAI is up to you I went JLT but I see alot of people with K&N FIPK's too. I went with the diablo sport tuner but SCT is better since it holds 3 custom tunes and the predator only holds 1. You can get one with a custom tune form Mile Hi or Amazon for the same price as any parts supplier (obviously the "pulley tune" they come with is garbage) I have an off-road X pipe for it too that is sitting in my garage because I'm having a hard time deciding which I like better. It still makes lots of power with only weld in flows, but if you got the $$ go with a full system from Bassini or Borla they sound awesome.
It's not absolutely neccesary to mod the tranny, suspinsion and IRS right away but if you like to be able to go WOT from a stop or in 1st you'll have to eventually. more horse power = faster wear and tear.
 

Unistang

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Has anyone tried that cooling mod that taps into the freeze plug on the back of the DR side head and runs directly to the crossover? Install easy? Does it work?
 

Unistang

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Also... recommend doing the lower as well? I don't want to overspin the blower, but I'm also worried about heat. Thoughts?
 

Quick Strike

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I think my 4# lower is great with my 2.8" upper, but again all of the accompanying mods have been done to support it (intake, heat exchanger, cooling mod, free flowing exhaust, SC/TB/plenum porting, MAF, BAP, 60# injectors, street tuned X-calibrator and four piece idler set).
 
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