Learn me about Bias Ply Drag Slicks!!

[RedVenom48]

Ok so, Ive decided to upgrade from my current set of MT Drag radials. Finding ANOTHER bent axle explains a few things Ive been feeling from my car since the last night at the track (almost a year). I need the ability of the bias plys to absorb that launch hit. So, its time for bias plys... Cause replacing axles are expensive....

Ive decided on Hoosier 28x10.5-15s:

http://www.jegs.com/i/Hoosier/522/18155C07/10002/-1

Its a bias ply Hoosier drag slick with a stiffer sidewall then their standard slick. At 4050 pounds (yours truly in it), my car is heavy so i wanted a slick that would still wrinkle and absorb the hit but also be stiffer to not fall on its face from the weight. Ill be getting skinny rims and Hoosier front runners in the next few months but Ill pull the trigger on the slicks now.

Since bias plys are new to me some questions:

1. Do I have to run a tube and do i need wheel screws? Ive read some experiences around the web about bias ply slicks. Some swear by tubes, tubes are mandatory to run screws. Some run no screws and tubes and seem to have great results too. The Hoosiers seem to be a great tire and have good slip recovery if launching hard.

2. What air pressures should I start off with? Ive heard start at 20psi and adjust down a little at a time until the sweet spot is found.

3. Burnouts: The Mickeys usually didnt need to big of a burn out. Just enough to see some smoke and clean off the tires and they were good. Does the same hold true for slicks, especially the Hoosiers?

4. Initial Mounting and balancing: Is there a max pressure that I need to watch for? should I static balance them?

 

[Fast Ford]

Lexustech,

Usually the part number of the slick will have an S denoting a stiff sidewall.
You don't need tubes or screws unless you notice tire slip, just mark the tire and wheel and you'll know if there's been any movement. As for pressure I'd start at 18 and work from that point, your burn outs will grow pressure and yes the bias ply will need more burn out than a radial. And to answer the last part of your question not sure about balancing due to the fact that bias ply slicks don't have a true roll-out.

About a year ago like you, I was trying to figure out what tire set-up I wanted and after a lot of reading, I decided on M/T 28x10.5x15 Pro Bracket Radial and I'm glad I went with the radials. For me the advantages were; a consistent roll-out "radials don't grow", and high speed stability as I also do a fair amount of 1/2 mile racing as well as my local 1/4 mile stuff. Tire manufacture techs don't usually recommend radials for stick cars, but the tech I talked to at M/T listened to me based on how I would use the tires, and made me feel comfortable with my radial decision. And my first trip to the 1/4 with them, I finally broke into the 10's after a few passes.

 

[jazz]

What psi are u running the mt pros?

 

[Fast Ford]

What psi are u running the mt pros?

16-18

 

[gimmie11s]

Ok so, Ive decided to upgrade from my current set of MT Drag radials. Finding ANOTHER bent axle explains a few things Ive been feeling from my car since the last night at the track (almost a year). I need the ability of the bias plys to absorb that launch hit. So, its time for bias plys... Cause replacing axles are expensive....

Ive decided on Hoosier 28x10.5-15s:

http://www.jegs.com/i/Hoosier/522/18155C07/10002/-1

Its a bias ply Hoosier drag slick with a stiffer sidewall then their standard slick. At 4050 pounds (yours truly in it), my car is heavy so i wanted a slick that would still wrinkle and absorb the hit but also be stiffer to not fall on its face from the weight. Ill be getting skinny rims and Hoosier front runners in the next few months but Ill pull the trigger on the slicks now.

Since bias plys are new to me some questions:

1. Do I have to run a tube and do i need wheel screws? Ive read some experiences around the web about bias ply slicks. Some swear by tubes, tubes are mandatory to run screws. Some run no screws and tubes and seem to have great results too. The Hoosiers seem to be a great tire and have good slip recovery if launching hard.

2. What air pressures should I start off with? Ive heard start at 20psi and adjust down a little at a time until the sweet spot is found.

3. Burnouts: The Mickeys usually didnt need to big of a burn out. Just enough to see some smoke and clean off the tires and they were good. Does the same hold true for slicks, especially the Hoosiers?

4. Initial Mounting and balancing: Is there a max pressure that I need to watch for? should I static balance them?

What did you end up doing with your slick set up? Any comments or pointers on mounting/balancing, tire pressure, etc etc?

Have you had them at the track yet and if so, how did they perform? How did the car feel going down the track?

I just picked up a true drag pack wheel/tire set up with stiff sidewall MT ET Drags so looking for some experiences.

 

[Willie]

LT48,
Before dropping coin, if you want to try my setup, you are welcome to. I run these:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mtt-3754x

Don't be fooled because of they are called E/T Street. The E/T Street Pro is not street legal...

I assume you have a line lock and sway bar relocation kit...

I run consistent 1.6 to 1.7 secs and I'm not good at it.

 

[RedVenom48]

@gimmie11s : I went with the Hoosier 28x10.5L15 Stiffwall C07 compound slicks. I seated them at 10 psi and set the cold pressure at 20 psi for storage. They were roll matched from the distributor prior to shipping (One of the reasons ill only use Hoosiers from now on).

Mounted on non beadlocked or screwkit rims (SVE Drag 15x10s). I did not run tubes. I Static balanced them, but after the first pass it was out of balance again so it wasnt too important to do.

I ran them at the 15 psi cold. First burnout was longer than i did the rest of the night, mainly to get fresh rubber exposed and up to temp for their first run. Next 2 burnouts were just untill i noticed smoke. John Force style burnouts are not friendly to modern compounds. A ton of heat isnt needed with them. I think MT even says a good cleaning off is all thats really needed with their current componds.

Tire dead hooked on the launch. Track was prepped, but not a single instance of spin or slip. Good or bad, they HOOKED. Grip a nonexistant issue. Potential to break driveline components to get a baller 60ft a BIG issue lol.

Running them with Hoosier 17x4.5 bias front skinnies (17x4.5 SVE Drag front wheels). Rock solid down the track. Not a single hint of sway or instability of any kind. Pleasantly surprised at how good the car felt on this drag setup. Im almost tempted to try the non stiff slicks next time, but they hooked so well with no wheel hop or spinning ill probably just rebuy these tires.

A few guys at the track said the cars weight can adversely effect tire performance on a non stiffwall bias slick, too much distortion and it will react lazily. My 60 ft was bad because of my inabilites as a driver, not because of the tire laying over, lol.

Love em and wish i wod have done this sooner and not messed with the drag radials.

 

[gimmie11s]

Excellent response with good detail thanks!

Was your 60 sub 2.0? Had to be im thinking.

I also ordered the sve drags but with A MT setup vs the Hoosiers.

Did you have to install longer wheel studs?

Pics of your setup?

 

[JB_2010GT500]

Willie—what is different about those pro DOTs vs traditional slicks that makes them a more popular choice? I had thought they were the same compound, but with grooves. I’m guessing that’s not the only difference.


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[Blown38]

Mount them without the lube on the beads and put high tack gasket adhesive on the bead. Just did this on a 4400 lb marauder with 1.48 and 1.50 60's, tires didn't move a bit. Ran the tires at 16 psi hot. They aren't the hoosiers tho. they are the new M&H 18" slicks.

 

[gimmie11s]

Mount them without the lube on the beads and put high tack gasket adhesive on the bead. Just did this on a 4400 lb marauder with 1.48 and 1.50 60's, tires didn't move a bit. Ran the tires at 16 psi hot. They aren't the hoosiers tho. they are the new M&H 18" slicks.

Nice. I read about Permatex high tack today. I'll do it that way.

 

[RedVenom48]

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[JB_2010GT500]

Dude that looks bad ass!!!


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[RedVenom48]

No wheel studs needed with the SVE Drags. Factory acorns worked nicely. A nice feature of the SVEs is that they remove all the paint off the lug seat, so lug torque is true.

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[RedVenom48]

@JB_2010GT500 Thanks man! I was pretty happy with how she looked. The 17" Front skinnies look much taller than the rears, but the rears look FAT when on the car.

@gimmie11s : best 60ft of the night was 1.9. I know there were a couple of tenths left in the car at least. Bad thoughts of exploding differentials, bent axles and busted driveshafts got the better of me so no hero launches. My inconsistant shifting and poor synchro operation lead me to want to fix the TR6060 then swap to a 6R80. That, and harder launches that are actusllyneasier on the driveline would be nice lol.

 

[gimmie11s]

Holy Crap that looks amazing!!

 

[svtbryan]

Lol tell my why I have the same exact car (stripeless) and run the same drag set up. Everything is almost identical just my rears are MT lol

 

[jenkins_1120]

I have the Hoosier stiff wall on race stars and first time out tire spin on the rim was one of my issues. It was a lot of spin. But still pulled a 1.4 60’. I had no sway or wobble up top and car felt solid.

I will say, make sure your head is against the rest before you launch.


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[jenkins_1120]

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I want those front tires


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[RedVenom48]

I have the Hoosier stiff wall on race stars and first time out tire spin on the rim was one of my issues. It was a lot of spin. But still pulled a 1.4 60’. I had no sway or wobble up top and car felt solid.

I will say, make sure your head is against the rest before you launch.


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They're great skinnies man. I wouldn't drive them on the street, but for the strip they were awesome. Not even a hint of wiggle going down the track, and held my car straight using my line lock for the burnout.

Same rear tires with the reinforcements. Im not even ashamed to say that a set of double bead lock race stars are in my future.