Just to make sure the new mounts fixed your issue. My headers seem to be rubbing on the driver side frame as well but I want to make sure this works before I spend money to buy and install.
Kooks mid length hitting frame... suggestions?
- Thread starter konabluekiller
- Start date
I installed the kooks copies and motor mounts didn't help. I had to remove the header, heat it with a map gas torch and "adjust" it with a hammer.... Doesn't hit anymore...
That doesn't fix having the flanges welded on 15 degrees out of position. It was a huge issue trying to get this resolved with them. They accused us of never having worked on a Mustang before and being incompetent to install exhaust, their words.
Well this is certainly concerning, I dont want to hijack the thread but I have a set of Shorties waiting to go on that were shipped in July of 13 and asking about issues and or revisions in another thread. Any way to know if the angle is off by looking at them?? What did you end up doing to fix this did you get another set ? Machine the flange??.
Thanks Much
I have the kooks copies as well. So your saying the only fix is to dent it? Was really hoping motor mounts would do it.
installed Stedda mounts the same time I did the headers. I lowered and raised the engine but couldn't get the gap i needed. I now have a good 1/8 inch gap between the frame an header. I took me a few tries to get it right. I did measure the motor height from the ground after i jacked it up. That way when i dropped the k-memeber i could lower the engine to the installed height to check my progress. Took me 4 tries to get it the way I wanted. Using the MAP gas, get it red hot and use a ball peen hammer. when it cools off, check and repeat. The issue with the copies is they are the first gen header, Kooks has since changed it to remedy the frame hitting. Can't beat the price though.
Think there is anything I can do without removing the headers? I didn't install them myself and was hoping the motor mounts would solve my problem. Maybe let it idle or run for a while and stick a crow bar in there and just bump it? Should I get the motor mounts installed anyway? Worth it?
Can't get enough heat from running to bend the pipe without cracking it. You try can the motor mounts.
Mounts are going to cost 400 or so bucks with install so I'd rather not if it's going to be a maybe.
So heat it with a torch and try and move it with a bar or something? Can't get a hammer there and don't want to remove them.
So heat it with a torch and try and move it with a bar or something? Can't get a hammer there and don't want to remove them.
We had to argue with Kooks on behalf of the customer to get another set. It was hard to tell they were incorrect until we laid them next to the originals, as shown in the photo. The middle piece is the Kooks replacement header.
Is it fair to say that I will not poke a hole in the pipe if I stick a bar or chisel up there?
Had the same problem on my car. Loosened the mounts, lifted the engine a little bit, then moved the engine over with a prybar. Works fine now. When it was on the lift you could tell the engine wasn't centered in the car.
I DO NOT recommend trying this method. There is no way you can heat up the pipe while installed to ensure no damage.
Only options I see are:
1. remove, heat and dent
2. Aftermarket motor mounts
3. Buy the Kook's Headers
I first tried to loosen the motor mount, pried engine over and retighten. But the natural torquing of the engine would hit under heavy acceleration. Option one cured it for me. Good luck
I paid for installation so I don't think option 1 is good for me. I have access to a lift but feel that it will be to difficult to get it out. When you say damage do you mean damage to the header or to the car or both? A very good metal worker fabrication guy I know says he can get it but I don't want to break anything.
You could crack the header....
I was able to heat it up on the car and slide a small bar in there and it worked perfectly. No more rattle.
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