Killer Chiller vs Phoenix

[foxspy]

I got my Killer Chiller installed today, and I did a little test. I'm in Phoenix and the high today was 108*, with less than 10% humidity.

I have the stock intercooler tank and heat exchanger. I insulated the line from the KC to the evaporator, as well as the coolant line from the KC to the intercooler. I recharged the a/c system with Industrial ES12 with the high side pressure around 280psi. I might have a leak at the fitting coming out of the condenser, so I'll need to keep an eye out for that. I talked to Joe Kincaid today and he will send me another peanut fitting if need be.

I need to drive more to get an opinion on the cabin temps.

Here's a screen shot of the Torque app driving last week (no Killer Chiller) when it was 102* out at 70mph.

Here's a screen shot at idle after a 20 mile drive.

Now for the Killer Chiller results.

On the highway on cruise control.

I guess I forgot to get an idle shot, but the results were similar.

Now if I can only get the engine coolant temps down.

 

[gabe1530]

not bad results,
put a 170 t-stat will help a lot.

 

[440sprint]

put a 170 t-stat will help a lot.

I'll look into a Chiller Killer for sure!

How much IAT reduction will a 170* thermostat accomplish on a stock '13 Shelby?

Isn't there then a need for a diff plug, oil, tune......?

 

[foxspy]

not bad results,
put a 170 t-stat will help a lot.

Already done, along with head cooling mod, fans on early, and AmsOil coolant additive.

 

[Tractionless1]

You should net much lower IAT2's, usually around ambient, especially with such low humidity. I assume your HE is still plumbed in line and that's what's holding back the best cooling. It's heating your KC'd IC fluid back up near ambient. I recommend your low side pressure at 42psi, a GM white orifice tube, and take the HE offline. This can be done with a 3-way valve or disconnected completely via replumbing. I highly recommend searching threads by Tractionless1 here and by Tractionless on Modfords titled "Initial killer".

 

[foxspy]

I'll look into the 3 way valve for better cooling. I think one problem is the C&L intake, it's like an oven. The IAT1s get up to 130*+ being under the hood. I bet a JLT High Boost would help with the intake temps.

 

[2003cobra22]

That really lowers those IAT2s in this phoenix heat

 

[djtyau]

Like Tractionless1 said, the biggest improvement i saw was bypassing the heat exchanger, insulate the intercooler (not stock) and insulate lines. I easily saw close to ambient IAT2s.

 

[Mystic03]

AZ heat sucks...been 2 weeks since ive driven my car lol

 

[gamebred26]

what about boosting?

 

[2003cobra22]

Download the Torque Pro app and took a screen shot, the car was idling for a couple of minutes after driving. I have a fluidyne h/e but I thought the IAT1 seems high. What style intake you run?

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[Ande99SVT]

I'm definitely looking at one of these, being in 29 Palms, CA my IAT is usually around 140-170.

 

[foxspy]

Download the Torque Pro app and took a screen shot, the car was idling for a couple of minutes after driving. I have a fluidyne h/e but I thought the IAT1 seems high. What style intake you run?

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I have a C&L intake, which holds heat like an oven. I need to ditch that setup and get a JLT High Boost intake.

 

[raym5_0]

+1 bypass the H/E, and play around with your low side pressure as Tractionless mentioned...also replace that RAI with CAI. but your 117* temp isnt to bad for 108* ambient. You actually should have seen the temps drop as you open the throttle. GL

 

[J.Kincaid]

Pretty good temps, and definitely consider bypassing the HE, but only if you have a larger after market reservoir. You need to be running a minimal of 1.5 gallons (total) IC fluid or more. The more IC fluid the better.

- Joe

 

[J.Kincaid]

One other thing, Tractionless1 mentioned using a white orifice tube in the KC, and I guess he wasn't aware that we've been doing that for a few years now. Also, I'm working on an idea for a 12V bypass valve, so you can just flip a switch in the cab and bypass the HE.

There's two versions. One would be a normally open valve setup (N/O), so if there's a failure it'll still flow IC fluid. The other is a normally closed valve setup N/C. Problem with the N/C valve is, if both sides fail then you'd get no IC fluid flow.

The N/O valve setup costs double what the N/C costs, but it should be a safer setup. Although the N/C setup is supposed to be good for 250,000 cycles.

I figure the N/C valve setup would cost about 80 bucks, and the chances of both sides of the valves failing are pretty slim, so even if one side fails you'd still have fluid flow either thru the HE or the KC. The N/O setup would be about $160.00.

The N/C setup draws half an amp, and the N/O setup draws 2.5 amps. Both are rated for continues duty.

- Joe

 

[2003cobra22]

I have a C&L intake, which holds heat like an oven. I need to ditch that setup and get a JLT High Boost intake.

Thats the same as mine, do you have a heat shield on it?

 

[gamebred26]

idling is really pointless...you have the throttle body closed and not air going in/out/or under the hood.

you should log cruising...%50 tps...and wot and see what the iat2s are...idling is just going to roast regardless.

 

[foxspy]

Thats the same as mine, do you have a heat shield on it?

There's a little heat shield around the filter itself, but the problem is the material the C&L intake tube is made out of. It doesn't dissipate heat worth a crap. It gets too hot to touch after a 20 min drive.

 

[2003cobra22]

There's a little heat shield around the filter itself, but the problem is the material the C&L intake tube is made out of. It doesn't dissipate heat worth a crap. It gets too hot to touch after a 20 min drive.

I agree with that, looked up the JLT you were talking about and it looks alot better.