Killer Chiller Heat Exchanger Bypass - Is this a good way to do it?

[94 Cobra R]

That's amazing. Some guys say IAT2s around 90 with KC, some like you have much lower. I'm very curious to see where mine will be in the spring.

Thread resurrection....did anyone ever successfully make a switch or join it with the ac switch?

Reference Thread
https://www.svtperformance.com/foru...r-bypass-is-this-a-good-way-to-do-it.1033678/

 

[whitedevil95]

I have had my KC for 4 years now. I thought about doing something like that but the amount of lines needed was just ridiculous. I have had my HE deleted and run my AC full time. Good lock

 

[BLOWN9646]

I have had my KC for 4 years now. I thought about doing something like that but the amount of lines needed was just ridiculous. I have had my HE deleted and run my AC full time. Good lock

Not like it matters much, but have you noticed any decrease in MPG

 

[whitedevil95]

Not like it matters much, but have you noticed any decrease in MPG

Ive honestly never calculated my MPG for the Cobra. My prius gets 48mpg though.

 

[SVT_Troy]

Here is what I use to switch in between KC and the H/E. I used a 1" valve over the 3/4" piece that is listed in one of the threads here that explains how to set it up. The ball valve in the center is the chock point so i recommend the 1" valve over the 3/4". You'll just use reducer NPT fittings to get back down to 3"4.

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[olympic]

I will be attempting this with my car prertty soon. The plan is to install the valve near the inlet to the heat exchanger that will simply divert the coolant through a seperate line to the outlet, bypassing the heat exchanger when needed. This should minimize the amount of tubing needed.

 

[94 Cobra R]

@SVT_Troy - Did you use 134 or the ES12? I just finished my killer chiller and I'm about to discharge the system of the ES12. I should have done a little more research but the ES12 has a horrible history (researched several A/C forums) and it actually worries me about wrecking my compressor down the road. So I've got access to a jug of 134 that I'm probably going to charge with this afternoon.

 

[SVT_Troy]

@SVT_Troy - Did you use 134 or the ES12? I just finished my killer chiller and I'm about to discharge the system of the ES12. I should have done a little more research but the ES12 has a horrible history (researched several A/C forums) and it actually worries me about wrecking my compressor down the road. So I've got access to a jug of 134 that I'm probably going to charge with this afternoon.

Back when I did mine (don’t think it has changed) this brand of R134a was the hotness. Supposed to be the best that you can buy: https://www.es-refrigerants.com/pr...-ounce-can-equivalent-16-oz-134a/details.asp


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Back when I did mine (don’t think it has changed) this brand of R134a was the hotness. Supposed to be about the best you could buy: https://www.es-refrigerants.com/pr...6-ounce-can-equivalent-16-oz-134a/details.asp

 

[MalcolmV8]

Back when I did mine (don’t think it has changed) this brand of R134a was the hotness. Supposed to be the best that you can buy: https://www.es-refrigerants.com/products/w/id/645/t/industrial-r134a-replacement-refrigerant-6-ounce-can-equivalent-16-oz-134a/details.asp

I messed with that too a few years ago. Did you realize it's not even R134a. Notice they call it "replacement". It's actually a mix of propane and butane I think it was. What ever it was it's highly flammable. Had me concerned about a fender bender turning into a torched car. I called the guy selling it and he was rude as hell and blasted me for even suggesting my car's going to burn and said it would never happen in a wreck. Needless to say I tossed that stuff, flushed the system and went back to regular r134a.

As for bypassing the heat exchanger I never did install the valve as it was horrible design the one I had. You can see it in that link someone posted above. However I did manually bypass the HE and then manually put it back in. I really didn't see any changes in the IAT2 so I just left in place because I had one my a/c quit on me once and with no HE that system over heated and puked IC coolant all over the engine bay. By keeping in the HE in the circuit if my a/c ever went out again the system would still operate as normal.

 

[SVT_Troy]

I messed with that too a few years ago. Did you realize it's not even R134a. Notice they call it "replacement". It's actually a mix of propane and butane I think it was. What ever it was it's highly flammable. Had me concerned about a fender bender turning into a torched car. I called the guy selling it and he was rude as hell and blasted me for even suggesting my car's going to burn and said it would never happen in a wreck. Needless to say I tossed that stuff, flushed the system and went back to regular r134a.

As for bypassing the heat exchanger I never did install the valve as it was horrible design the one I had. You can see it in that link someone posted above. However I did manually bypass the HE and then manually put it back in. I really didn't see any changes in the IAT2 so I just left in place because I had one my a/c quit on me once and with no HE that system over heated and puked IC coolant all over the engine bay. By keeping in the HE in the circuit if my a/c ever went out again the system would still operate as normal.

That’s interesting Malcolm.... I don’t think I’ve ever saw you post anything about the replacement R134. I must have missed that thread.

What was wrong with the valve you had in hands? I didn’t see anything wrong with the valve I bought besides the restriction at the actual ball making me go to a larger size. Come to think of it I need to go to a even larger size now that I’ve switched to 1” lines.


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[94 Cobra R]

I messed with that too a few years ago. Did you realize it's not even R134a. Notice they call it "replacement". It's actually a mix of propane and butane I think it was. What ever it was it's highly flammable. Had me concerned about a fender bender turning into a torched car. I called the guy selling it and he was rude as hell and blasted me for even suggesting my car's going to burn and said it would never happen in a wreck. Needless to say I tossed that stuff, flushed the system and went back to regular r134a.

As for bypassing the heat exchanger I never did install the valve as it was horrible design the one I had. You can see it in that link someone posted above. However I did manually bypass the HE and then manually put it back in. I really didn't see any changes in the IAT2 so I just left in place because I had one my a/c quit on me once and with no HE that system over heated and puked IC coolant all over the engine bay. By keeping in the HE in the circuit if my a/c ever went out again the system would still operate as normal.

Interesting to hear that, Malcolm. I wasn't as worried about the flammable aspect, mainly because I figured with Gas and Oil already in the car, things will get bad if there's ever an explosion to begin with. BUT...after 1 day with the ES12A from the Enviro site, it wasn't nearly as cool. Then after reading on some professional A/C forums how they've had horrible results to the A/C systems after using the ES12, I decided to have it evacuated. I have a 30lbs jug of 134, so I used a couple of pounds. It's back to being frigid again.

Over the past weekend, while plumbing the KC in with the bypass, I couldn't stand all the extra hoses and such, plus my bypass valve didn't come with mounting holes, so I pulled all of it back out and just bypassed the H/E altogether. We'll see how it goes, I may end up putting the HE back into the loop. So far, IAT2 has been around 100 while it's 80 degrees out and humid as an ocean. Traffic this afternoon will be a good test, especially since it'll be around 93-94 degrees.

 

[MalcolmV8]

That’s interesting Malcolm.... I don’t think I’ve ever saw you post anything about the replacement R134. I must have missed that thread.

There was no thread. I just saw you mentioning it and sharing what my experience with it was.

So far, IAT2 has been around 100 while it's 80 degrees out and humid as an ocean. Traffic this afternoon will be a good test, especially since it'll be around 93-94 degrees.

What's under WOT? Remember IAT2 temps under WOT is all that matters. While cruising is irrelevant.
I think that's some of the biggest problems in how people evaluate the effectiveness of the killer chiller by looking at IAT2 temps while idling or driving around.

 

[94 Cobra R]

What's under WOT? Remember IAT2 temps under WOT is all that matters. While cruising is irrelevant.
I think that's some of the biggest problems in how people evaluate the effectiveness of the killer chiller by looking at IAT2 temps while idling or driving around.

Reason I look at it while cruising and such is because if I decide I need the power, timing will be getting pulled before I had the KC installed (just cruising in Florida heat/traffic would put me above 150 easily). Highest I've seen under WOT is 150 and, of course, it quickly goes back to under 100 as soon as I let off. (edit - ok, within a minute and into 5th gear)

 

[94 Cobra R]

@MalcolmV8 - Just found your thread on the beautiful HE/Tank setup you did. Now that is a work of art and amazing results. May have to think about that in my near future.

 

[94 Cobra R]

Something interesting. I’ve read from some pretty reliable users that the optimum low pressure is 42, no matter the ambient temp. Definitely not reliable. Everything I’ve read and gathering from a VERY hot week down here in Florida, I should be between 50-55....just my own experience. High pressure is in the ballpark of 280. Just thought I’d share.


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