killer chiller drag kit

[Biff-Mach1]

my buddy has the killer chiller on his eaton cobra and he loves it. I have been doing research on it for months. Should i get it should i not. After all the videos i have seen and people i have talked to, its all been positive. The drag kit makes it even better. i have the 3.4 Whipple and a lot of people tell me that i don't need the killer chiller because it takes a lot to heat soak the bigger blowers. well if i can make the IAC lower and protect my Whipple then im going to do it. every little bit helps. With the guys that have the smaller blowers, i think its a must have.
do your own research :read:

 

[Demonio]

So on a 3.4 blower u saying no need for this mod?

 

[Biff-Mach1]

So on a 3.4 blower u saying no need for this mod?

From performance shops and others with big blowers they tell me there's no need. But even with a 3.4 after some hard runs, it gets hot!. So I think its better then nothing or even a bigger HE.

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[Aaronhandlon]

i am interested in getting in but don't know to much about them...can one of you help explain how it total works an the positive or neg? I just recently purchased an 03 cobra an for most part stock but do have full exhaust an ported stock blower that's pushing prob more then it should lbs ...I have the money ready an can do it just have no knowledge really its hard to find much on them. or I just don't know where to look

 

[Biff-Mach1]

i am interested in getting in but don't know to much about them...can one of you help explain how it total works an the positive or neg? I just recently purchased an 03 cobra an for most part stock but do have full exhaust an ported stock blower that's pushing prob more then it should lbs ...I have the money ready an can do it just have no knowledge really its hard to find much on them. or I just don't know where to look

Check this out http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?828599-Killer-Chiller

This has come up before. The only down side WAS about condensation dropping on the floor. Not good at the track. But they fixed this with the drag kit. You can now switch on the a/c for inside the cab and KC at the same time or turn off the inside and just run the KC. Just Google or youtube Killer Chiller or look on this forum.
The simplistic way of describing how it works..imagine your evaporator cold in a bucket of coolant and that coolant being circulated through your SC. Would you rather have ambient air cool your coolant through the HE or the KC cooling your coolant using a/c?
If your still unsure I will give you more info tomorrow about it.

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[Biff-Mach1]

What are the advantages of the Killer Chiller system?

EXTREMELY LOW INTERCOOLER FLUID TEMPS (35 to 50 degrees F), which allows for MORE boost and/or MORE spark for GREATER, SAFER POWER! The KC also allows SUSTAINED power and continual safety for those vehicles without any changes to boost and/or spark!

Heat is the #1 enemy of performance and safety, especially in forced induction applications. This is especially true when you continue to raise boost. Blower exit temps can be astronomical! We all know that a cooler charge into the combustion chamber will allow for the ability to run more boost and spark on a given octane. This is in addition to the fact that it adds an even greater safety margin on lower boost and spark levels. With the Killer Chiller, most everyone will experience a drop in intercooler temps of between 40 and 80+ degrees! This system can be ran full time for a constant reduction in intercooler temps, or part time for a consistent and reliable reduction in overall intercooler temps.

How does it work?

When you turn the AC on the refrigerant is forced through the chiller core. The core employs a counter-flow design, which utilizes stainless sheets stamped with a herringbone pattern of grooves, stacked in alternating directions to form separate flow channels (one channel for the refrigerant, and one for the IC fluid). This allows 90% of the chiller core to be used for heat transfer, making it extremely efficient at chilling down the IC fluid, and allowing for more boost and or timing as noted above.

Touching further, the temp of the refrigerant will be about 15-20 degrees entering the core, and the exit temp should be around 35 degrees. The refrigerant will then make its way back to the evap at about 40-45 degrees and exit at around 65 degrees, so there should be little to no condensation, but this will allow the refrigerant to go through the accumulator and protect the compressor from any moisture, and/or contaminates.

Data:

Using Tim's (Blwn04 here on ModularFords) 2004 Cobra, we achieved a consistent 35 to 42 degrees today through the KC core, and a consistent 45 to 55 degrees in the intercooler reservoir, even after several repeated brisk pulls (keep in mind that the intercooler reservoir fluid comes directly out of the intercooler, *after* it heats up).

Within a confined room of approx. 65 to 70 degree temps, we let Tim's Cobra warm up to operating temperature. With the A/C off, therefore no KC cooling, the intercooler reservoir temperatures were approx. 85 to 90+ degrees (would have heated up even further if he would have let it continue to run without the KC chilling). Then Tim turned on the A/C, and within 1 minute the IC reservoir temps dropped down to 60 degrees. Within approx. 2 more minutes they had dropped down to 50 degrees. He shut the A/C off and it raised up to approx. 75 degrees after approx. 3 minutes. As he continued to let it heat up over time, the IC coolant actually become quite hot (near scalding).

Danny's (EvilSVT here on ModularFords) Lightning experienced basically the exact same findings. I'll elaborate more in depth on both vehicles throughout this thread.

Important Information:

Insulation: Neither vehicle had any insulation on the supply/feed lines. However, we do recommend everyone to insulate as much as possible, as there is increased efficiency and cooling you will gain from doing such.

Refrigerant: We ended up with basically the exact same amount of refrigerant (R134A) as factory already calls for. The A/C cycles on/off normally, and there isn't any issues to be concerned with here. Realize that this system will work properly with basically the same amount of refrigerant as factory (that's a big benefit, especially for ease of install and implementation). Most all of us knows someone in the automotive A/C industry that can recharge our systems properly. For the system to work properly, it is very important that they install the exact amount of refrigerant we call for. Do not let them overcharge or undercharge, or you will have reduced performance, and potentially zero cooling.

Installation: The system is extremely easy to install. It requires about the same effort and time as installing your supercharger (tho everyone is different in this regard). I estimate approx. 4 hours to 8 hours to install this, depending on your rate of work, with most falling in around 6 hours, not counting the time to for the evac and recharge of the system (generally about 30 min to 1 hour). It is a straight forward installation that I just cannot see anyone getting in a bind with.

Note: PLEASE be careful, and kind to everyone, and do NOT pollute refrigerant. R134A is HIGHLY toxic when breathed, and tho it has shown not to affect the ozone, it actually does have a global warming potential. Be kind!

Warranty:

The Killer Chiller has a LIFETIME WARRANTY on the assembly (core and lines), and a two year warranty on the gauge sensor package. Find that type of warranty in the automotive aftermarket industry!

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[Biff-Mach1]

just 2 more spots!

 

[Aaronhandlon]

seems pretty positive...they charge 300$ more just to stop it from dripping condensation thou ? I am from IL an car just went into storage for next 5 or so months an doubt it be at track very often if ever....think he would give me a deal on the regular one if I came aboard with you guys that go for $700. or just drag kit only? not trying to be difficult ...just asking

 

[Biff-Mach1]

seems pretty positive...they charge 300$ more just to stop it from dripping condensation thou ? I am from IL an car just went into storage for next 5 or so months an doubt it be at track very often if ever....think he would give me a deal on the regular one if I came aboard with you guys that go for $700. or just drag kit only? not trying to be difficult ...just asking

I'll ask him

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[Aaronhandlon]

sounds good if so count me in

 

[KzooMuscle]

seems pretty positive...they charge 300$ more just to stop it from dripping condensation thou ? I am from IL an car just went into storage for next 5 or so months an doubt it be at track very often if ever....think he would give me a deal on the regular one if I came aboard with you guys that go for $700. or just drag kit only? not trying to be difficult ...just asking

I agree, $300 is pretty steep for a minor upgrade. Would he drop the price more if we got more people you think?

 

[Aaronhandlon]

hey guys I have not heard anything so just picked up one from another user but thanks for everything an just letting you know

 

[Biff-Mach1]

He can do it for $585 shipped. The none drag KC

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[Biff-Mach1]

hey guys I have not heard anything so just picked up one from another user but thanks for everything an just letting you know

No worries

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[Biff-Mach1]

seems pretty positive...they charge 300$ more just to stop it from dripping condensation thou ? I am from IL an car just went into storage for next 5 or so months an doubt it be at track very often if ever....think he would give me a deal on the regular one if I came aboard with you guys that go for $700. or just drag kit only? not trying to be difficult ...just asking

I agree, $300 is pretty steep for a minor upgrade. Would he drop the price more if we got more people you think?

$585 shipped for the none drag kit

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[Biff-Mach1]

Need 2 more people. $800 for the drag kit and $585 for the normal kit(none drag)

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[Biff-Mach1]

Price came down to $550 for the Killer Chiller! Let me know so I can put you on the list!

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[Aaronhandlon]

does or has anyone ran aftermarket heat exchangers w the kiler chiller kit? I was told it suggest using stock one but didn't know if it would benefit at all.

 

[Biff-Mach1]

here is the routing. The fluid will go through the heat exchanger before going through the KC. The heat exchanger will cool it before going to the KC and get even more cooler. i see the heat exchanger as a precooler. stock or aftermarket should be fine. i have the AFCO heat exchanger.

 

[Biff-Mach1]

Bump for 2 more people

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