KB Installed finally - car starts and dies

Toasty

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So I finally got my KB 1.5 install finished today.

I have a baseline tune (meant to get me to the dyno shop safely) from my tuner I uploaded with my Xcal3 and then started the car. It initially ran for 4-5 minutes until I gave it a bit of gas, and then it died. Subsequent attempts to start the car result in the car firing, revving to maybe 1300 rpms, and then dying.

I unloaded the custom baseline tune and restored the stock tune. The car behaves the same way - it starts, runs to 1300 rpms, and then dies.

I've double checked all my vaccum lines and electrical connections. All looks good and in place.

Any ideas? It sounds like its not getting fuel. Turning the ignition on I can hear the pump prime, and whats kinda strange is that after the car dies the fuel pump seems to prime itself again.

I'm going down to get myself a fuel pressure gauge to check pressure at the rail schraeder valve.
 

Cookieman00x

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Check around your maf... if there is a leak it will die.. Do you have an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator and guage?
 

97WHITEVENOM

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vac leak for sure. It happend sometime during the 4-5 mins it ran for, and since it happend the car wont start.
 

Toasty

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Check around your maf... if there is a leak it will die.. Do you have an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator and guage?

Got it to stay running by just continuing to start the car until it seemed to 'set' its idle. However, with it running smoothly at idle as soon as I touch the throttle it dies. It will idle forever until I touch the throttle.

Computer throwing a p1100 code, which is some sort of MAF malfunction. I unplugged the MAF and the engine will rev a bit, but is very rough.

I have a stupid JLT CAI so its a pain to see where I might have a leak, but I put the whole thing together in a very solid way before I inserted it into the fender. Reaching up from below, I think I can feel that everything is connected tight.

I triple checked all my vacuum lines and they all appear to be solid. Spraying sensor kleen (electrical parts cleaner) at all the vac lines doesnt change the throttle one bit at idle.

My suspicion is the 90mm lightning maf I got with this used 1.5 is not working properly. Especially given the fact that the computer is throwing a maf code and that unplugging the maf makes the car run better.

Will the stock tune work with a 90mm lightning maf out of the box? If it doesnt work 'well' thats ok. Maybe my tuner missed the flags for a 90mm maf in the custom base tune.

To recap on my 'custom base tune', I told my tuner my combo, and he emailed me a base tune he said should work fine for getting the car to his shop. He indicated he had done 4-5 cars exactly like mine and figured he could put together a base tune that while pig rich, would be safe to drive the car to him with. I told him all the bits in the combo, including the 90mm maf, 39lb injectors and kb.
 
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Cookieman00x

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I think it sounds like a tune related issue.. Did your tuner adjust everything for the L maf?

Mine sent me a tune to idle the car, then I logged it with my sct xcal2, sent him the log and he sent me a tune good enough to drive with to get the dyno tune.

I doubt its a bad maf, but it could be. What size injectors are in there? The lightning maf is calibrated for 39# injectors.

Do you still have your stock MAF? Id throw the stock maf back on and give it a start.


P1100 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Intermittent The MAF sensor circuit is monitored by the PCM for sudden voltage (or air flow) input change through the comprehensive component monitor (CCM). If during the last 40 warm-up cycles in key ON engine running the PCM detects a voltage (or air flow) change beyond the minimum or maximum calibrated limit, a continuous memory diagnostic trouble code (DTC) is stored. Poor continuity through the MAF sensor connectors
Poor continuity through the MAF sensor harness
Intermittent open or short inside the MAF sensor.
While accessing the MAF V PID on the scan tool, lightly tap on the MAF sensor or wiggle the MAF sensor connector and harness. If the MAF V PID suddenly changes below 0.23 volt or above 4.60 volts, an intermittent fault is indicated.
 

Toasty

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I think it sounds like a tune related issue.. Did your tuner adjust everything for the L maf?

Mine sent me a tune to idle the car, then I logged it with my sct xcal2, sent him the log and he sent me a tune good enough to drive with to get the dyno tune.

I'll talk to my tuner tomorrow. Luckily he's a 10 min drive away.

I doubt its a bad maf, but it could be. What size injectors are in there? The lightning maf is calibrated for 39# injectors.

Do you still have your stock MAF? Id throw the stock maf back on and give it a start.

39lb EV6 injectors with adapter harnesses. I'm suspecting that my tuner missed the maf setting in the base tune. Awesome post Cookie. Got a sister I can take off your hands? ;)
 

Toasty

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I'll talk to my tuner tomorrow. Luckily he's a 10 min drive away.



39lb EV6 injectors with adapter harnesses. I'm suspecting that my tuner missed the maf setting in the base tune. Awesome post Cookie. Got a sister I can take off your hands? ;)


OK, so nooblet of the year award goes to

ME!

My MAF was installed backwards.

I actually had two problems. The first was that the fuel supply line was not properly seated to the fuel rail at the disconnect. I blame the friend who was helping me as he connected the lines and said they were good. lol.

2nd was that I unbelieveably installed the maf BACKWARDS. I must have bene half asleep or something. Thing is with a 90mm MAF body, and a 4" filter adapter on the other end, the two ends of the MAF assembly are basically the same size. lol

Crazy. I didnt want to punish my neighbours quite this early, but I fired the car and gave it a couple of soft/smooth revs to 3k with no issues.

I CANT WAIT TO DRIVE THIS THING!
 
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unforgiven

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At least you found the problem, keep us posted. When up upgrade to a 2.2, I will take the 1.5 off our hands for you:banana:
 

Toasty

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First drive:

Car is so much faster now. Its funny, but my first impression is that I didnt notice the sensation of speed as much as I noticed just being alot more 'busy' in the cockpit - watching tach/speedo, shifting, watching traffic, etc. I'm also very focused on smells and sounds of 'bad' things occuring while I do these shakedown runs.

I did however notice how fast the car blips to 7k redline now. Wow.

Very happy.
 

Cookieman00x

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nice, Ive installed it backwards before too... glad to see its running good. Are you going to get it dynoed?
 

Toasty

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nice, Ive installed it backwards before too... glad to see its running good. Are you going to get it dynoed?

Yes on the dyno time. My baseline tune I got from my tuner via email didnt turn off the imrc's as its throwing an IMRC code. Its also stumbling below 3000 rpm if I punch the throttle, and above 3k it takes off like a rocket. IAC needs some love too as when the engine is at full op temp the idle hits 1500-1800 and wont come down. When its cold/warming up its fine - I roll up to a stoplight in Neutral with rpms at 1100-ish and it drops to about 700-800 when I roll to a stop. It also seems like it has a slight miss at idle - the engine used to be very smooth at idle and now it has a tiny blip you can 'feel'.

So yeah, def needs some dyno love, gonna book it with my tuner tomorrow AM. I wanted a couple of days of shakedown to ensure no loose rattles/fluid leaks/vacuum leaks, etc.

How did I live this long without boost?
 

Cookieman00x

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Toasty, do you have an a/f guage? I dont know that I would be running above 3k till its logged and dynoed. I understand making sure everything works before they dyno. Just a suggestion...
 

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