Issues after TVS install

[lilredcoupe]

I recently installed a '13 TVS on my 2011. I added '13-'14 injectors, VMP 67mm TB, and KB dual BAP. Lund is doing my tuning remotely. The car pulls like gang busters under WOT and drivability seems good. The issue I am having is under part throttle ( roughly 40%-60%) the car bogs for a second or two, boost starts fluctuating dramatically, the rpms start to climb slowly while the boost is fluctuating and when the rpms finally gets high enough the boost kicks in and off I go. This is all while holding the throttle at the same position. It does this in every gear but seems the worst in the higher gears.

I swapped out the boost control valve that came on the TVS with my stock one and that didn't help. I also put my stock TB on and that didn't help either. I have checked for vacuum leaks and don't see any, again car idles and drives fine. Lund has looked at my datalogs and says everything looks good.

Has anyone else experienced this problem and if so what was the issue?

Thx

 

[1320 Junkie]

Sounds like a dirty maf sensor

 

[Ninjak]

^ This. buy some MAF cleaner, clean it, and stick it back in. Also clean your CAI on the inside. Just a good wipe will do.

 

[nxhappy]

is it pulling any codes ?

 

[leroyt10]

I recently installed a '13 TVS on my 2011. I added '13-'14 injectors, VMP 67mm TB, and KB dual BAP. Lund is doing my tuning remotely. The car pulls like gang busters under WOT and drivability seems good. The issue I am having is under part throttle ( roughly 40%-60%) the car bogs for a second or two, boost starts fluctuating dramatically, the rpms start to climb slowly while the boost is fluctuating and when the rpms finally gets high enough the boost kicks in and off I go. This is all while holding the throttle at the same position. It does this in every gear but seems the worst in the higher gears.

I swapped out the boost control valve that came on the TVS with my stock one and that didn't help. I also put my stock TB on and that didn't help either. I have checked for vacuum leaks and don't see any, again car idles and drives fine. Lund has looked at my datalogs and says everything looks good.

Has anyone else experienced this problem and if so what was the issue?

Thx

Maybe the spark plugs are breaking down. Some run a cooler spark plug. If you have access to mode 6 testing you might be able to see a miss. Cleaning the MAF as mentioned above is a good idea too.

 

[lilredcoupe]

^ This. buy some MAF cleaner, clean it, and stick it back in. Also clean your CAI on the inside. Just a good wipe will do.

Where do I find MAF cleaner? Would OReilly or Autozone have something like this?

 

[lilredcoupe]

is it pulling any codes ?

No codes

 

[- Aj -]

Where do I find MAF cleaner? Would OReilly or Autozone have something like this?

Yes

 

[nxhappy]

make sure the MAF is installed in the correct direction

 

[ShiftyThePirate]

Only thing I've experienced like this is when I keep the car around 3.5-4k rpms and let off for a second then stomp again, it accelerates but there is a split second where it hesitates then goes, RPMS do not go up or anything (not slipping), just lags, maybe super-charger lag in my case. I'm bone-stock though.

 

[CodyK7]

Lol..... That's not a thing. I've never heard of supercharger lag.

 

[ShiftyThePirate]

Lol..... That's not a thing. I've never heard of supercharger lag.

Then what is it? If I keep it around 4-4.5k rpm wait a few secs than slam it, it accelerates at the start then hesitates (blink of an eye) for a mili-second then is off. If just down-shifting into the gear and punch it, or upshifting never happens,only if you hold that RPM for a couple seconds. Def not a clutch slip as the rpms do not bounce up. I guess it's just throttle lag or something then, only happens after you let it ride around 4k for a bit then punch the pedal. 5k+ no hesitation, instant "to the moon" You are right though S\CS aren't known to "lag" I mean they take a big engine to power and s\cs eat up a good bit of HP just to power the suckers, unlike turbos. Just something I experience after I let off and cruise around 4k rpm for a couple seconds then punch it, it goes then for a mili-second hesitates then goes, as if the motor bogs down for a second as the RPMS don't bounce up at all, I assume a slipping clutch the RPMS would fly up and the car wouldn't go forward, def not experiencing that, seems more like something is bogging for a just for a mili-second. Normal driving I never encounter it.

*EDIT* If not normal I'll start another thread did not mean to hijack this one sorry lilred.

 

[lilredcoupe]

This happens over the course of several seconds and in any gear. It is worse in the higher gears. I don't think its the MAF because it didn't do this before I installed the TVS. However, I am going to clean both the MAF and CAI just to be sure. It seems more like the boost control valve fluctuating opened and closed but I changed it out so I don't think that's the issue either.

Does anyone know if the boost control valve is different on a 2011 and '13-'14? I thought about unplugging the vacuum lines to the valve, capping and plugging them off and then driving the car to see if it changes anything.

 

[VNMOUS1]

Hey! Do NOT spray contact cleaner directly into the MAF wires. They're delicate and if you're not careful you'll be buying a sensor. Do it at an angle.

bj

 

[lilredcoupe]

Hey! Do NOT spray contact cleaner directly into the MAF wires. They're delicate and if you're not careful you'll be buying a sensor. Do it at an angle.

bj

Thanks BJ

 

[SCGallo2]

lilredcoupe, did you fix your issue? I experienced a similar bog under low rpm, high load conditions while Jon was dialing in my tune, no boost fluctuations though. My driving style and the road conditions (hills) where I was testing the car were exaggerating the condition. If you can capture the event in a datalog, Jon can resolve it if tune related. In my case, timing was going negative when I felt the bog, so he increased spark in the low rpm, high load area and problem solved. Make sure your boost bypass valve is operating full travel in both directions, with your engine off and then on.

 

[lilredcoupe]

lilredcoupe, did you fix your issue? I experienced a similar bog under low rpm, high load conditions while Jon was dialing in my tune, no boost fluctuations though. My driving style and the road conditions (hills) where I was testing the car were exaggerating the condition. If you can capture the event in a datalog, Jon can resolve it if tune related. In my case, timing was going negative when I felt the bog, so he increased spark in the low rpm, high load area and problem solved. Make sure your boost bypass valve is operating full travel in both directions, with your engine off and then on.

We are getting closer. I bought some MAF cleaner and it didn't make a difference. I decided to try the tune I had before adding the TVS and it was a lot better. Jon went back to that tune and started massaging it. It helped tremendously but it isn't completely gone. I would now call it a surge. The boost fluctuates a little but not wildly like before and the car does not bog or fall on its face. I'm hoping we can get it straightened out completely.

Does anyone know if the boost control valve from a 2011 is the same as a the one used on the '13-'14s?

 

[ShiftyThePirate]

Does the GT-500 not use iridium spark plugs aka change @ 100k? I know my SRT came with them, though obv I wouldn't leave any plugs in for that long due to the possibility of them being stuck.

 

[nxhappy]

definitely sounds like the tune needs more adjusting.