Is this overkill?

[DC97Cobra]

Going to upgrade the suspension and trying to keep in mind that I will not be tracking the car. I just want the vehicle to be fun to drive in the twisties and onramps while not being scared of breaking the rear If I decide to launch from a dig..


Full Tilt Boogie(ac427cobra) IRS Bushing Set
Full Tilt Boogie(ac427cobra) Bumpsteer/Toelink Upgrade
Full Tilt Boogie(ac427cobra) a pair for 9/16" Grade 8 bolts with nylock nuts and flat washers for the front subframe mounts
Maximum Motorsports IRS Heavy Duty Crossmember
Billetflow Rear IRS Brace
Steeda Full Length Subframe Connectors
Steeda Tokico D-Spec Shocks and Struts (Set of 4) - IRS Cobra - 99-04
Steeda Front Sway Bar
Steeda Swaybar 1-3/8" Pivot Bushings @ $12.48 Each
Steeda Bumpsteer Kit
Steeda X2 Ball Joint - Set of 2
Steeda Polyurethane Front Spring Isolators
Steeda Polyurethane Rear Spring Isolators
Steeda Stainless Steel Brake Lines

Current springs on the car are Eibach Pros. The Cobra almost has 100,000 miles on her and starting to get some squeaks. The rear diff needs to have the cover popped off anyways to have the fluid changed out as well and will be having a set of gears installed while the IRS is dropped.

I was thinking about adding the below items but the list above is already overbudget and feel that the below items can be installed over time.

Steeda Heavy Duty Swaybar Endlinks
Steeda Caster Camber Plates
Full Tilt Boogie(ac427cobra) Adjustable Swaybar Endlink Kit
Steeda 03-04 Mach 3-Point Strut Tower Brace


So my question is what would you add or remove from the above list for a car that is a daily street vehicle? The things I want to keep on the list for sure are the IRS bushings set and maybe the D-Spec Shocks/Struts. Suggestions on a deiferent brand shock with similar or less expensive costs will be considered.

One last thing... I don't want a SRA in the Cobra. The 1997 Cobra that I previously owned had the Steeda Stage 1,2,3 Gtrac Suspension Kit on her and handled great however I purchased the 01 Cobra for the IRS as I wanted to give it a try.

 

[slick4_6]

Going to upgrade the suspension and trying to keep in mind that I will not be tracking the car. I just want the vehicle to be fun to drive in the twisties and onramps while not being scared of breaking the rear If I decide to launch from a dig..


Full Tilt Boogie(ac427cobra) IRS Bushing Set
Full Tilt Boogie(ac427cobra) Bumpsteer/Toelink Upgrade
Full Tilt Boogie(ac427cobra) a pair for 9/16" Grade 8 bolts with nylock nuts and flat washers for the front subframe mounts
Maximum Motorsports IRS Heavy Duty Crossmember
Billetflow Rear IRS Brace
Steeda Full Length Subframe Connectors
Steeda Tokico D-Spec Shocks and Struts (Set of 4) - IRS Cobra - 99-04
Steeda Front Sway Bar
Steeda Swaybar 1-3/8" Pivot Bushings @ $12.48 Each
Steeda Bumpsteer Kit
Steeda X2 Ball Joint - Set of 2
Steeda Polyurethane Front Spring Isolators
Steeda Polyurethane Rear Spring Isolators
Steeda Stainless Steel Brake Lines

Current springs on the car are Eibach Pros. The Cobra almost has 100,000 miles on her and starting to get some squeaks. The rear diff needs to have the cover popped off anyways to have the fluid changed out as well and will be having a set of gears installed while the IRS is dropped.

I was thinking about adding the below items but the list above is already overbudget and feel that the below items can be installed over time.

Steeda Heavy Duty Swaybar Endlinks
Steeda Caster Camber Plates
Full Tilt Boogie(ac427cobra) Adjustable Swaybar Endlink Kit
Steeda 03-04 Mach 3-Point Strut Tower Brace


So my question is what would you add or remove from the above list for a car that is a daily street vehicle? The things I want to keep on the list for sure are the IRS bushings set and maybe the D-Spec Shocks/Struts. Suggestions on a deiferent brand shock with similar or less expensive costs will be considered.

You do not need an aftermarket sway bar. I would trade out the D-spec for Bilsteins if possible. If you call up Maximum Motorsports they will recommend which of the Bilsteins will be a good match for the springs you are running. If it was mine I would take everything on the list that is from Steeda and get it from Maximum Motorsports. Unless some new ones have been released, no one makes a better caster/camber plate than Maximum Motorsports.

 

[mrmustangman357]

maximum motorsports ftw

 

[Bite Me]

Excellent list but I would opt for maximum motorsports stuff rather than steeda. The strut tower brace is nicer IMO.

I have most of that. I would say screw the sway bar and get the bump steer front and back instead. Or if thats already budgeted swap those sway bars out for your strut brace.

Also, I wouldnt bother with the d-specs. The bilsteins are some bad ass shocks. I just got a set myself and love them. You will want the following parts Front F4-V36-4138-H3
Rear F4-BE5-2959-H0 and dont get them from MM. They are more expensive. Get them from a place called pro am http://www.proamauto.com. Free shipping and quick.


I wouldnt bother with poly isos. Just get the FRPP isos and be done with it. It will keep your car the height it is now. Plus it wont help handling at all, just noise.

You have a few things to add to that list though if you are redoing the rear.

Need master rebuild kit, gears, gear oil, axle shaft seals (these dont come with the rebuild kit like they do for a SRA), and carbon fiber clutch packs (might as well do it now while its out or you will regret it).

 

[DC97Cobra]

Thank you for the suggestions. I checked out the sugested bilstein shocks and they are selling retail for around $750.. Unless I can get them cheaper somewhere else, I might end up with the Tokico's for $590.00

Bite Me,

Thanks for the reminder on the parts for the diff. I will add them to the list as well.

Anyone else with suggestions?

 

[blackmagicmach]

The Koni yellows are some great shocks, also you can do the fiour diff cover and the mm solid mounting bracket...

oh and you don't need the x2 ball joints... some new OEM ones will be just fine...

 

[DC97Cobra]

fior diff cover? Thanks for the heads up on the X2's

 

[birdman941]

The STEEDA stuff is great.
I have their IRS side braces, SFC's, diff cover brace, bumpsteer, X2's,
and IRS nose bushings.
I would go with the "boogie" stuff and STEEDA for the remainder.
Mine is putting 404 to the wheels, handles and rides great, no wheel hop.
STEEDA won a lot of races running this stuff and has been around since the beginning.

 

[steve5575]

These guys are adding stuff that is overkill which is what you are trying to stay away from. The "FORE" diff cover is $500 and is WAY overkill for a street car. If you want a diff cover with a drain just go with the LPW and save $300 and drop the Billetflow brace.

I called Maximum Motorsports the other day and one of the guys informed me a bit about the bumpsteer kits. If you have the stock k-member you do NOT need front bump steer kit. He informed me that it is purely a myth that a lowered car affects bumpsteer. I wouldn't waste time and money on that kit until you plan to go with a tubular k. He did inform me however that when you touch the rear bushings in the IRS you DO have to account for bumpsteer and do need the kit back there. Keep in mind a bumpsteer kit is worthless unless you get a bumpsteer gauge and calibrate it correctly.

Make sure you have a small rasp to enlarge the front subframe bolt holes. The 9/16" grade 8 is slightly larger than the 14mm holes. At least this was my experience.

Just my opinion.

 

[droptopsnake01]

waste of money.

You just answered your own question. You aint going to be road racing your car on the highway and in your neighborhood man.

And seriousely your going to spend all that money to have fun on a off ramp. wow

 

[DC97Cobra]

waste of money.

You just answered your own question. You aint going to be road racing your car on the highway and in your neighborhood man.

And seriousely your going to spend all that money to have fun on a off ramp. wow

I just want the vehicle to be fun to drive in the twisties and onramps while not being scared of breaking the rear If I decide to launch from a dig..

Need to read all of the message. I go up north into the hills/mountains and sometimes push the car. I've had experiences where the rear end would act wierd and make the car feel unstable. The Cobra also likes to push through the turns when I feel that it should track a little bit better. I want to resolve this issue without having to spend money on stuff that would be absolutely unnecessary.

<EDIT> I just noticed that you live in Raleigh. You out of all people should know how much fun the back roads can be as there are a ton of them up there! On top of that, you are only a few hours away from the dragon! <EDIT>

So far, I have learned that the X2 ball joints and bumpsteer kits are not needed but question the thought on the front stabalizer bar. I know that a strut tower brace will help but wouldn't be a necessity at this moment and can add that to a future upgrade list. I know that MM makes some awesome products but feel that Steeda has quality parts as well, especially after having their Gtrac kit on the 97 Cobra. I think that unless I lower the car farther than 1.5", I won't need the caster/camber plates. It seems like they are the mostly useful for those that are constantly adjusting their suspension for the different tracks that they run.

Now today, I ran across an IRS that came out of an 04 Cobra. It has the MM bushings already installed and a set of 3.90 gears. The gears and bushings have less than 1000 miles on them and the Cobra was a low mileage vehicle as well. I'm now thinking about just grabbing that, installing the diff cover brace and purchasing the D-Spec shocks with the coil overs and then selling my IRS with the shocks and springs.

From there, I will add the strut tower braces, upgrade the sway bars and install the subframe connectors throughout the year.

I think getting the other IRS will be the best option and thank you all for your knowledge. I feel that after hearing some of your comments and reading up some more that quite a few parts on the list would not be required.

 

[gmsux]

The 04 is fresher and has stronger axles etc but still has the same rubber bushings. If it is out, install Bruce's kit with bumpsteer for the rear, you must measure the bumpsteer to know were to move the shims and this must be done on each side.

Ditch the front swaybar, stiffer springs are what you need if the car leans too much.

 

[99COBRA2881]

Dont buy the IRS crossmember from MM, its a Ford piece same as whats on 03-04 cobras. Get it from Tousley Ford and save yourself some $$$. How do I know this? Because I overpaid for the MM marked up, re-boxed Ford piece!

Sway bars are band aids for a shitty suspension setup. X2s are not a waste on a stock K member car that's lowered and neither are bumpsteer kits (if the car is actually measured for bumpsteer.) Caster camber plates were the FIRST suspension mod that I did to my Cobra.

I hate to say it but your game plan for this cars suspension needs some serious revision and some well spent time reading about mustang suspension setup over at corner-carvers.com

Once the correct SPRING RATE has been applied, most stock sway bars are too stiff. The sway bars should be an after thought not a first option.

 

[omj]

I'd ditch the diff brace for a diff cover. I got a really nice one from AM that has a drain in it and is very beefy for about 200 shipped.

 

[DC97Cobra]

Dont buy the IRS crossmember from MM, its a Ford piece same as whats on 03-04 cobras. Get it from Tousley Ford and save yourself some $$$. How do I know this? Because I overpaid for the MM marked up, re-boxed Ford piece!

Sway bars are band aids for a shitty suspension setup. X2s are not a waste on a stock K member car that's lowered and neither are bumpsteer kits (if the car is actually measured for bumpsteer.) Caster camber plates were the FIRST suspension mod that I did to my Cobra.

I hate to say it but your game plan for this cars suspension needs some serious revision and some well spent time reading about mustang suspension setup over at corner-carvers.com

Once the correct SPRING RATE has been applied, most stock sway bars are too stiff. The sway bars should be an after thought not a first option.

So why did you do Caster/Camber plates first? Nothing is ordered yet so still researching. I'll check out corner-carvers.com and read up. I know that I lack a bit of knowledge in the suspension area hence why I posted this thread.

gmsux..

The 04 IRS I'm looking at purchasing has the Maximum Motorsports bushings already installed as well as a set of gears. :rockon:

 

[99COBRA2881]

Once you lower these cars the stock camber plates will run out of adjustment. The only option then is to slot the holes in the stock camber plates to achieve the needed adjustment. Caster is not adjustable with the stock camber plates. Maxing out caster (moving the plates towards the firewall) will help move the wheels forward in the wheel well, this helps with turn in and steering response. It doesn't matter what suspension you have if you don't have a proper alignment on the car.

Keep reading and do some searching in the open track forum here, lots of proven setups and questions/answers in there.

Have fun and run the dragon when you get the suspension done regardless of what brand of suspension you decide on!! :beer:

 

[droptopsnake01]

<EDIT> I just noticed that you live in Raleigh. You out of all people should know how much fun the back roads can be as there are a ton of them up there! On top of that, you are only a few hours away from the dragon! <EDIT.

Im going to be honest with you. "testing" out my car is sharp turns and twisties on public roads just have never tickled my fancy. To dangerious, I have enought trouble trying to keep my car on the road going in a straight line but then again my car is different than most.

With that being said I will say what I normally say. Just make sure the money you spend will be worth the return it will give you. You have to ask yourself honestly how many times are you going to drive all the way to the mountains to drive around some curves (on public roads etc)

I still think you are wasting some money. I could see some of that stuff being done but not all of it.

Never been to the dragon and never wanted to go and just see how close I could cut it and try to keep my car on the road and not totaling it.

 

[gmsux]

I'd go with the 04 IRS then. Use the saved cash on bilsteins all the way around

gmsux..

The 04 IRS I'm looking at purchasing has the Maximum Motorsports bushings already installed as well as a set of gears. :rockon:[/QUOTE]

 

[E. Green Cobra]

I'd go with the subframes, the 04 irs with bushings, shocks and rear bump steer. C/C plates optional.

 

[DC97Cobra]

Im going to be honest with you. "testing" out my car is sharp turns and twisties on public roads just have never tickled my fancy. To dangerious, I have enought trouble trying to keep my car on the road going in a straight line but then again my car is different than most.

With that being said I will say what I normally say. Just make sure the money you spend will be worth the return it will give you. You have to ask yourself honestly how many times are you going to drive all the way to the mountains to drive around some curves (on public roads etc)

I still think you are wasting some money. I could see some of that stuff being done but not all of it.

Never been to the dragon and never wanted to go and just see how close I could cut it and try to keep my car on the road and not totaling it.

Thanks for the input. I live in NE Georgia so the hills are only about 15 minutes away with mountains being about 45 minutes to an hour.

Because of this thread though, I decided that I will read up some more on corner-carvers and expand my mind a bit more. There were a few things I read on there that got me thinking a bit deeper into the project. Regretfully, the deeper I dug into it, the more I saw the price of what I want going up.

I'm going to work on stiffening the chassis first and then dive into suspension modifications after I educate myself some more.