Is there any sort of Oil Pressure Relief Valve in our motors?

Jiffy

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The reason I ask is this:
About every 5th time I start the car, it sounds like I have a couple of failed lifters (or ones that have leaked down) and they tap away like a bugger for 30 seconds, then the oil pressure seems to close them up and the motor is quiet as a grave, sounds really good. It has about 55K miles.
Recently I pulled up at my nephew's house after a bit of a blast through the twisties, and he came out as I rocked up and we were having a chat as the car was idling - he mentioned that the motor sounded a bit knocky and was tapping away at idle - I checked and it was. It def sounded like there was a lifter or two down and the sound wouldn't go - it was equally loud underneath as it was with the hood open.
So - a bit pissed off, I drove home (5 minutes) and when I got there, the motor was perfectly quiet again - no mechanical noises! Baffled as ****!

So - in the past, I had an issue with the oil cooler leaking fluid - so I got the O-ring kit, stripped it, rebuilt it and that fixed it - could I have cocked something up then? This corresponds with the approx. time frame I started to notice the noise on cold start.
About a month ago (in terms of driving time) when the Eaton was off and before the Whipple went on, I had my mechanic replace the lifters hoping that would settle the issue. It has improved it a lot, but then the noise this weekend had me a bit worried......

It almost sounds like an oil pressure problem - like it's losing pressure intermittently - anyone had these issues before? Could it be a sticky oil pressure relief valve? A mis-aligned oil-cooler? A leaking cam chain tensioner? Some other frigging thing?

Thanks in advance
 

03' White Snake

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Inside the oil pump there is a pressure relief spring. Are you running an aftermarket oil pressure gauge? If not, I'd highly recommend putting one in. The stock gauge is a dummy gauge and reads at 6psi.

I was having oil pressure issues myself, dropped the pan and found metal color in the oil from the bearings. Car ran and sounded fine. Cylinders were all scored.

Hopefully that is not your issue too. The oil pump gears break inside the pump housing. That is usually the cause.
 

Jiffy

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OK - so, how difficult is it to replace the gears in the oil pump?
Can that be done by dropping the oil pan or is it a much more involved procedure?
 

Weather Man

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OK - so, how difficult is it to replace the gears in the oil pump?
Can that be done by dropping the oil pan or is it a much more involved procedure?

If your gears were actually broken, you are looking at a new short block. You need to troubleshoot more, finding out your actual oil pressure would be good. You could also pull your oil filter and cut it open and carefully inspect for metal flake.
 

Jiffy

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yeah - I agree. I'm about to do an oil change so I'll cut the filter open and see what it's like. I would imagine it's one of the messiest jobs!! Still, it'll be interesting to see what I get.

So - where on the motor do I fit up a more accurate oil pressure gauge? Is it near the oil filter (I would have thought so) but wondering if anyone has an idiot's guide to doing it.

Any recommendations on what sort of gauge to get?
 

01yellercobra

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There should be a pipe plug at the oil cooler. Remove that plug and hook a gauge up. It could be a mechanical gauge from the parts store. It'll give a more accurate reading than the dash.

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Jiffy

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ok - I put in an engine flush and drove the car about 10 miles over a couple of days, then did an oil change, and put in 5w/30 and it seems much quieter. I cut open the old oil filter and checked it - no material from the bearings or anything else to worry about. Fingers crossed....
 

Jiffy

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about 60K miles, the lifters are brand-new, just replaced them when the Whipple went on - replaced them to see if that would quieten it down a little, and it did, but it came back until I did the oil change.
Could be the cam-chain tensioner, maybe that's bleeding down?
 

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