was wondering if anyone is using a full slick their cobra with the irs?.. im used to using drag radials.. was wondering if a full slick will help better with my irs with level 5 halfshafts... any input thanks
Is anyone using a full slick on their cobra???
- Thread starter 99'WhiteCobra
- Start date
You are more likely to wheel hop with DRs and that breaks shit.
With that said a hook on a full slick isn't easy on the drivetrain either.
Some say it is better, I disagree.
Wheel hop is your killer but don't think for a second that a 1.5 60' on a slick compared to a 1.7 60' on a DR is easier on parts.
Unless you are getting wheel hop or you just want a better 60' you are OK
Hope that helps
With that said a hook on a full slick isn't easy on the drivetrain either.
Some say it is better, I disagree.
Wheel hop is your killer but don't think for a second that a 1.5 60' on a slick compared to a 1.7 60' on a DR is easier on parts.
Unless you are getting wheel hop or you just want a better 60' you are OK
Hope that helps
I ditched my irs on my cobra years ago, but I have a GTO with irs. The GTO's rear is more fragile than a 99 cobra. I busted 2 rears running 275 MT drag radials. I was slipping the clutch and only cutting high 1.7 60 ft times. I swapped to to an ET Street byass ply drag tire two years ago, and have not broke a rear since. I still slip the clutch a little, and now I cut 1.6 60ft.
Any stability issues at the top end like So Many other complain about with the ET Street's tistan?
cause i hear that cobra with slicks come way more aggressive that on a drag radial.. i have nitto 315/30/17 and i only at 3500 rpm.. with a slick im supposed to leave at 4k but idk what size tire to run
Any time you go with a drag tire with soft sidewall you get a little sway. It is a simple matter of adjusting your driving style to make corrections in drift. Your steering input to the wheel needs to be slower.
It really isn't unstable it just feels a little loose.
It really isn't unstable it just feels a little loose.
With radial street tires up front, I let out on my first pass and it swayed so bad on my second pass that I almost hit the wall. I put it on the trailer and went home and ordered a set of bias ply front runners. No stability issues now. I wouldn't try to mix them again.
Ran slicks (MT ET Drag 26x10x15) for well over 200 passes on the IRS with 0 issues before changing to a SRA. Stock 03/04 shafts, stock bushings and a BF brace. Car went a best of 1.59 and avg mid to low 1.60's. There are many guys running 03/04 Cobras with much more HP that have had luck with the IRS and slicks. DR's are a no no....soft sidewalls get the thumbs up.
I run slicks on my Cobra at the track and drag radials on the street. Stick shift cars generally like a full slick or street slick (any bias ply design) better than a radial tire. It is also easier on drive line components because the softer sidewall of the bias ply design takes to the initial hit/shock of a stick shift launch, easier than hitting on the hard sidewall of a drag radial.
I want someone to find some credible info on this. Not another message board where people repeat the same thing that you all have been hearing.
The tire reps I talked to will not agree.
Stampede I'd say Credible info can be gained from all the Terminator guys that snap half shafts at the dragstrip with stiff sidewalls being the culprit, it's been discussed lots!
It is not from the side wall.
That is what I'm talking about.
And still not credible, One guy said it, another repeated it and another and another.
Fact is the ONLY reason DRs break shit and shock more is because of hop. And not even hop that can always be felt as up and down hop. Basically what the pros call tire shake.
The tire goes into a grip/slip/grip/slip thing.
Soft side walls on slicks soften the hit on the tires and that is it.
Once that tire wads up it is full on to the driveline.
The sidewall on the DR shocks the tire and sends it into hop which in turn shocks the hell out of the driveline.
So indirectly I guess they are somewhat right.
There is no way a 1.7 60' on DRs without hop is harder on a driveline than a 1.5 on slicks with the wheels in the air.
As said, DRs hop and that is what breaks shit.
It is a big misconception that the "Soft" sidewall is what saves parts, there is more to it. The fact that slicks grip and most don't have the HP to send them into tire shake is the bigger part.
Sorry I just get sick of hearing the slicks are easier on the driveline than DRs.
While slick may not break as many parts (On street type cars) as DRs do the explination everyone gives is too simple and semi wrong at the same time. It gives the impression that just getting slicks will solve all parts breakage and is easy on the driveline.
Keep racing and you will break something. No if, just when?
That is what I'm talking about.
And still not credible, One guy said it, another repeated it and another and another.
Fact is the ONLY reason DRs break shit and shock more is because of hop. And not even hop that can always be felt as up and down hop. Basically what the pros call tire shake.
The tire goes into a grip/slip/grip/slip thing.
Soft side walls on slicks soften the hit on the tires and that is it.
Once that tire wads up it is full on to the driveline.
The sidewall on the DR shocks the tire and sends it into hop which in turn shocks the hell out of the driveline.
So indirectly I guess they are somewhat right.
There is no way a 1.7 60' on DRs without hop is harder on a driveline than a 1.5 on slicks with the wheels in the air.
As said, DRs hop and that is what breaks shit.
It is a big misconception that the "Soft" sidewall is what saves parts, there is more to it. The fact that slicks grip and most don't have the HP to send them into tire shake is the bigger part.
Sorry I just get sick of hearing the slicks are easier on the driveline than DRs.
While slick may not break as many parts (On street type cars) as DRs do the explination everyone gives is too simple and semi wrong at the same time. It gives the impression that just getting slicks will solve all parts breakage and is easy on the driveline.
Keep racing and you will break something. No if, just when?
thanks for the input i have some nittos drag radials and i feel the car hook has it should best 60' was 1.8, i should be at 1.5 or so... but im going full slick, but what size of a slick should i get???
very true....old set up was 03 cobra KB 2.2 600 rwhp/93 octane.
28" et drags. Had to let out of it..many times. Heading to the wall and even a "good" pass was scary as hell.
5k clutch dump.....1.62 60's....7.0@100 1/8th.....
Regardless, if you want faster times you will need a full slick. I have DSS pro series halfshafts and almost everything a person can buy for the IRS and just dump the clutch from 5k rpm's. Stampede is right that sooner or later shit is gonna break, its drag racing, it happens. But cutting 1.52 60ft saves a lot of time in the first 1/8th compared to 1.8-1.9 on shitto DRs. It's worth it to switch to slicks, just make sure you have that driveshaft loop.
FYI my IRS Cobra has never wheel hopped with drag radials, or Slicks. Obviously the stiffer the tire the more likely it is to hop, but people with solid axle cars that DO NOT wheel hop at all also break more shit with radials than they do slicks..a car that goes 1.7s is not going to go 1.5s with slicks. I don't know why you keep bringing that up. If you have the rear end built to take the abuse, in some cases a car will sixty harder on a radial. A car will almost always MPH better on a radial as well. I'm at work, but when I go on break I'll go a little more in depth about how the "soft" sidewall of the slick actually DOES save your rear end. It's not rocket science.
Credible info? Well I made 100 passes on ET Streets with my Camaro (Solid axle, no wheel hop) put a radial on it and broke the rear end the first launch.
I suggest you try it for yourself. Bolt some radials onto a stick shift car and hit the track. No better info than first hand.
Wheel hop as I said cannot always be felt as what most know as hop.
I have tried it myself, for over 25 years.
And yes I have had a low 1.7 car go on 17" DRs go high 1.5s on slicks.
First hand?
Yea, been there and done that.
This is what happens with all tires. High HP cars do this with slicks, low HP cars do it more with DRs. You don't always feel it as hop in an up and down motion. But it is that slip/grip/slip/grip with DRs that breaks stuff.
I will not deny that DRs break more half shafts than slicks. I have broken parts with both. But the fact is that stiff walls shock the tires more which sends it into hop/shake and that is what breaks stuff. Total shock on driveline without shake will be harder on slicks.
http://www.clipstop.com/videos/Auto/Slow_Motion_Racing
I have tried it myself, for over 25 years.
And yes I have had a low 1.7 car go on 17" DRs go high 1.5s on slicks.
First hand?
Yea, been there and done that.
This is what happens with all tires. High HP cars do this with slicks, low HP cars do it more with DRs. You don't always feel it as hop in an up and down motion. But it is that slip/grip/slip/grip with DRs that breaks stuff.
I will not deny that DRs break more half shafts than slicks. I have broken parts with both. But the fact is that stiff walls shock the tires more which sends it into hop/shake and that is what breaks stuff. Total shock on driveline without shake will be harder on slicks.
http://www.clipstop.com/videos/Auto/Slow_Motion_Racing
Why can't you mix slicks and radial tires?
Users who are viewing this thread
