FOR SUPERCHARGED/TURBO GUYS
First , the results hereare only from EXTENSIVE testing on an emmisions dyno (we werent looking for power/torque measurements, only high speed/boost/high RPM testing)
1. Most of us guys have re-located our IAT sensors to the discharge tube to get accurate temp. measurements from the discharged air out of the blower.
2. Well, after much analyzing, I have come to determine the following:
Originally, the IAT sensor is located before the blower (per Vortech/Paxton, etc) in the factory air INTAKE, so air is usually being SUCKED past the IAT sensor. Well, after you re-locate the IAT sensor to the discharge tube, you are now pushing pressurized boost past the sensor/grommet, correct? Ok, then, what happens, is, when you pull the rubber grommet out of the factory intake tube and re-locate the grommet into the discharge tube, you are weakinging the strength/integrity of this grommet, which is already a weak grommet that wasnt designed to have pressurized air on it, so when you push 6,8,10,12,15 psi of boost through it, you are definately leaking out some already metered air, causing slight/severe rich conditions (which is safer than sorry), but as this grommet gets worked on by on/off pressure, it weakens.
I put the car on a friends emissions dyno in Canton and found that more boost = more lost metered air from this grommet that was originally designed for suck through application.
You might ask "Why wouldnt it leak IN unmetered air from the OEM setup?" Well, if you look at the design of the IAT sensor, it bonds better to the grommet when it is being used as a draw through application, such as OEM.
To make a long story short, Tim & T&J Performance does a fabulous job tuning cars, however, I highly advise changing this weak OEM grommet out to a thicker/tighter grommet so you dont lose meterd air.
I found one today that should be a pretty easy grommet to find at most parts houses.
MotorMite PCV grommet Part # 42058 (Attached Picture shows Grommet)
The reason I posted this is because my car started running crappy at idle because of a leak in the weld on my bypass flange (Not a T&J Weld) and I fixed that, but the car was still running a little rich at idle/decel, causing the car to idle crappy and sometimes stall. I was pulling my hair out trying to figure out why the car was still stalling and idling crappy.
The car now purrs like a kitten.
Mods, if you find it worthy, you might sticky this in several places.
First , the results hereare only from EXTENSIVE testing on an emmisions dyno (we werent looking for power/torque measurements, only high speed/boost/high RPM testing)
1. Most of us guys have re-located our IAT sensors to the discharge tube to get accurate temp. measurements from the discharged air out of the blower.
2. Well, after much analyzing, I have come to determine the following:
Originally, the IAT sensor is located before the blower (per Vortech/Paxton, etc) in the factory air INTAKE, so air is usually being SUCKED past the IAT sensor. Well, after you re-locate the IAT sensor to the discharge tube, you are now pushing pressurized boost past the sensor/grommet, correct? Ok, then, what happens, is, when you pull the rubber grommet out of the factory intake tube and re-locate the grommet into the discharge tube, you are weakinging the strength/integrity of this grommet, which is already a weak grommet that wasnt designed to have pressurized air on it, so when you push 6,8,10,12,15 psi of boost through it, you are definately leaking out some already metered air, causing slight/severe rich conditions (which is safer than sorry), but as this grommet gets worked on by on/off pressure, it weakens.
I put the car on a friends emissions dyno in Canton and found that more boost = more lost metered air from this grommet that was originally designed for suck through application.
You might ask "Why wouldnt it leak IN unmetered air from the OEM setup?" Well, if you look at the design of the IAT sensor, it bonds better to the grommet when it is being used as a draw through application, such as OEM.
To make a long story short, Tim & T&J Performance does a fabulous job tuning cars, however, I highly advise changing this weak OEM grommet out to a thicker/tighter grommet so you dont lose meterd air.
I found one today that should be a pretty easy grommet to find at most parts houses.
MotorMite PCV grommet Part # 42058 (Attached Picture shows Grommet)
The reason I posted this is because my car started running crappy at idle because of a leak in the weld on my bypass flange (Not a T&J Weld) and I fixed that, but the car was still running a little rich at idle/decel, causing the car to idle crappy and sometimes stall. I was pulling my hair out trying to figure out why the car was still stalling and idling crappy.
The car now purrs like a kitten.
Mods, if you find it worthy, you might sticky this in several places.
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