I'm considering buying a GT500, anything specific I should look for

[clobato]

Hi, I've been away from Mustangs for a few years and considering getting back into one. I'm hoping to pick up a 2010-2012 in the next few months, and I was wondering if there is anything in particular to look for or avoid.

Any feedback would be appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[Ohio Snake]

Hi, I've been away from Mustangs for a few years and considering getting back into one. I'm hoping to pick up a 2010-2012 in the next few months, and I was wondering if there is anything in particular to look for or avoid.

Any feedback would be appreciated.

Thanks!

I have a 2012. The '11 and '12 have the aluminum block engines for better weight distribution and the horsepower is 550 ( versus 500 for the iron block). These years came with the SVT Performance Package suspension as an option which makes the handling much better than the non PP version and has 3:73 gears. The Recaro seats were first introduced in 2012 as an option.


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[ponyboy96]

The 2010 is 540hp not 500hp. 2011/12 have a slightly larger exhaust, electric rack and pinion, and aluminum block which nets them 10 more hp. Honestly just go with what you can find the better deal on. Not much of a performance difference between those years honestly. Look for stock or close to stock unless you like highly modded cars.

 

[RedVenom48]

Knock sensors were first introduced on the 2010+ cars. 2011 was the first year for the aluminum engine and electric power steering. All others aside, i think knock sensors are the biggest safety feature you can have if youre building for performance.

The SVT performance pack has some sick wheels and stripes if thats your thing, but the suspension is very stiff. Most of us have to overhaul the rear suspension for traction to race if thats ur thing. Nothing in my rear suspension is stock.

The absolute first mod you must do is an MGW shifter and ATF fluid upgrade. Period, no exceptions. I have tried all the fluids you can think of, but so far for my trans, redline D4 ATF has worked the best.

 

[einehund]

Knock sensors on the 2010s as well.

 

[RedVenom48]

Edited, thank you for the clarification!

 

[P49Y-CY]

Out of curiosity, why didn't the previous GT500's have knock sensors?

 

[Ohio Snake]

The 2010 is 540hp not 500hp. 2011/12 have a slightly larger exhaust, electric rack and pinion, and aluminum block which nets them 10 more hp. Honestly just go with what you can find the better deal on. Not much of a performance difference between those years honestly. Look for stock or close to stock unless you like highly modded cars.

Thanks for the horsepower clarification on the '10. i prefer the PP over the non PP cars and they do run much stiffer.


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[WizardsCobra]

Subrscibing to this thread! I had a decently modded 03 Cobra and sold it in 08 and left the game till now. I'm looking to jump into maybe a 11-12 Shelby but so far leaning toward a 13-14.


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[RedVenom48]

All Shelbys need rear sway bar relocation brackets to run 15" drag wheels. 13-14 Shelbys need a swap to 10-12 GT/GT500 rear brakes to run 15" in wheels as well.

Trinity Shelbys are def special, and certainly put you at a better starting point than an 07-12. But a TVS swap, injectors and a BAP get you in the same ballpark.

 

[clobato]

Thanks for all the input. I'd love to pick up a 13 or 14, but they're just out of reach right now. I'm thinking I'll probably end up with a 10 because there are a couple low mileage cars locally that I've been eyeing.

What I'm really curious about is if there are any GT500 specific issues or quirks to watch out for during test drives.

 

[RedVenom48]

1-2 upshift grind. Thats like the #1 issue you would notice. Extreme freeplay in the shifter assy would indicate a stock shifter. Should be the first upgrade done to the car. Just know, this is a known issue on all GT500s. I know am repetative when i say it, but an MGW shifter transforms the car along witj fluid upgrade.

2nd would be rear gear whine while on the freeway. 3.73s seem more prone to it, but can be an indication the car was driven hard. I have a ton of passes on my gears and its been a trooper though they whine from 70-80mph

The whine from the supercharger when the happy pedal is mashed is totally normal. So is the shit eating grin that will be on your face!

 

[1Kona_Venom]

Trinity Shelbys are def special, and certainly put you at a better starting point than an 07-12. But a TVS swap, injectors and a BAP get you in the same ballpark.

2012 with mods in sig (no blower swap, no injectors, no BAP)
@ 580rwhp thats prettty close to stock 2013-14 power. Couple different ways to crack the nut.

For me the 2013-14 was just a "bridge to far" financially

Everyone else has covered the quirks....I have slight gear whine, cars never been beat. And the factory shifter. Could toss in the suspension too. That's next on my list

 

[1 Alibi 2]

For anything other than bone stock, ( as in from the factory ), complete documentation.
If you're buying from a dealer & they tell you it's stock, GET THAT IN WRITING !
If it has an aftermarket tune, make sure you get the hand held.

 

[SCGallo2]

What I'm really curious about is if there are any GT500 specific issues or quirks to watch out for during test drives.

Regardless of model year, clutches are prone to failure at mild to wild power levels. A WOT pull in 4th gear from 2000-6000 rpm will usually reveal a slipping clutch if it is on its way out.

 

[RedVenom48]

I cant wait to move to a state where i can actually put headers on my car.

 

[clobato]

Thanks again! The 1-2 shift grind, and gear whine are the type of things I was wanting to hear. I'd hate to turn down an otherwise solid car if I noticed an issue that was typical across most of them.

I can't wait to get one and start playing with it. Chances are I'm still a little while out from buying one, but I'm starting to compile my mods list.

 

[ponyboy96]

I occasionally got the 1-2 grind. Changed to the JHR clutch line and it fixed it for me. I think it's a flow/release issue and timing on the synchros. Just my guess.

 

[avgt500]

I think 2011 and up not only have the aluminum block but wide band 02 sensors, way better for datalogging, tuning.
I have a 08 pretty much set up for drag racing, but the cool thing about these cars is you can go any direction you want, plenty of aftermarket support.

 

[ShelbyGT5HUN]

If you buy a GT500 from a Ford Dealer, spring for the extended warranty from Ford, not any third party scammers. It's called Ford ESP. I did this. I got 5 year / 50,000 mile Ford factory bumper to bumper warranty for about $2400. Used it a few times, and is just good insurance in my mind, when dealing with a 550hp+ car. Not sure if Ford offers it without a dealer, but if they do, you might want to look into it. Covers everything except wearable parts like clutch, brakes, tires. Only catch, $100 deductible for each repair. If you stack the repairs, it's only $100. Had an airbag problem, not the recall, only cost me $100 to fix. I bought it more for the electronic gremlins, than the drivetrain.