IAT2 guidelines ?

dirtychamba

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I've been having some issues with my iat2 recently...

I have a trunk mount ice tank with distilled water and 2 bottles of water wetter....

car makes 21psi, fore triple pump, so yea it runs hot...

I don't remember exactly what the iat2 were before I cammed and turned up the boost on the car but I am pretty sure they were always 100-120.

Recently I have been having crazy spikes and fluctuations in the iat2 ....
from 129-140 on a 85 degree day and in a matter of seconds to 160+ and it'll drop back down .... if they continued to spike past 170 I would just turn car off/on and it would act normal again for about 5-8 minutes then back to the fluctuating games.


What we did was flush the entire cooling system, replace the rule 2000 pump, drain the c&r HE and re do it all.
The trunk tank goes from tank-HE-intake manifold IC

we let the car idle and drove it on the hwy and the iat2 were stuck at 140 .... not really dropping nor increasing..
can it be my sensor is toast? the engine temps are normal and the car still pulls hard...
where else should I be looking?

and once it is fixed what is the normal guideline for iat2 for a sunny place like los angeles.

daytime:
75-80 degree: city_ highway _ WOT_
85 degrees: city_ highway_ WOT
90 degrees: city_ HIGHWAY_ WOT_
95 degreses: city_ highway _ WOT_

nighttime:
75: city/highway/WOT
70: city/highway/WOT
65: city/highway/WOT
60: city/highway/WOT


I am asking for iat2 with mods/boost/power which all play a significant part in what temps your car is in...

if you have a 3.6 please share LOL
 

GT500RedStripe

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Did this start after the cams? Are you seeing IAT run up when on cruise control or deceleration? Does IAT drop with the slightest acceleration? If so, the intake overlap is allowing hot gasses to enter the plenum where the IAT sensor is. This is common with aggressive cam setup and is not a problem as IAT drops instantly when you give it the gas. I also find that on the street, filling my trunk tank 1/2 way allows the heat exchanger to do a better job and the box retains less heat.
 

SirShaun

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Last night, someone backed into my car so I was monitoring IAT2s to make sure the heat exchanger was alright.

80 Degrees, night time, cruising home. City had a high of 110 and Highway it would chill around 90.

VMP Gen II, VMP Triple Pass Heat Exchanger, 21 Lbs of boost. No trunk mount with stock reservoir. I've seen it go to around 130 or 135 before on a hot day in traffic tho.
 

Van@RevanRacing

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I've been having some issues with my iat2 recently...

I have a trunk mount ice tank with distilled water and 2 bottles of water wetter....

car makes 21psi, fore triple pump, so yea it runs hot...

I don't remember exactly what the iat2 were before I cammed and turned up the boost on the car but I am pretty sure they were always 100-120.

Recently I have been having crazy spikes and fluctuations in the iat2 ....
from 129-140 on a 85 degree day and in a matter of seconds to 160+ and it'll drop back down .... if they continued to spike past 170 I would just turn car off/on and it would act normal again for about 5-8 minutes then back to the fluctuating games.


What we did was flush the entire cooling system, replace the rule 2000 pump, drain the c&r HE and re do it all.
The trunk tank goes from tank-HE-intake manifold IC

we let the car idle and drove it on the hwy and the iat2 were stuck at 140 .... not really dropping nor increasing..
can it be my sensor is toast? the engine temps are normal and the car still pulls hard...
where else should I be looking?

and once it is fixed what is the normal guideline for iat2 for a sunny place like los angeles.

daytime:
75-80 degree: city_ highway _ WOT_
85 degrees: city_ highway_ WOT
90 degrees: city_ HIGHWAY_ WOT_
95 degreses: city_ highway _ WOT_

nighttime:
75: city/highway/WOT
70: city/highway/WOT
65: city/highway/WOT
60: city/highway/WOT


I am asking for iat2 with mods/boost/power which all play a significant part in what temps your car is in...

if you have a 3.6 please share LOL

I'd be suspect that you might have an air pocket in the intercooler that isn't vacating. I would make sure there is no air whatsoever in the system because the temperatures you are mentioning sound indicative of an air pocket.
 

dirtychamba

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I'd be suspect that you might have an air pocket in the intercooler that isn't vacating. I would make sure there is no air whatsoever in the system because the temperatures you are mentioning sound indicative of an air pocket.

how do i check off an air pocket?
would flushing the system be sufficient?
 

nxhappy

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are you running your meth/water with these IATS??

to get rid of the air pocket: Put car on driveway, open caps, let engine get up to temp. The pocket will burp out of the tanks. once you don't see any more "bubbles" burp out, the system is clear.
 

dirtychamba

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are you running your meth/water with these IATS??

to get rid of the air pocket: Put car on driveway, open caps, let engine get up to temp. The pocket will burp out of the tanks. once you don't see any more "bubbles" burp out, the system is clear.


no no i have to change my sig ..

no meth anymore.
 

GT Premi

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You didn't say what blower you have nor what conditions the spikes occur; WOT or near WOT, just cruising, etc. This might sound silly, but have you checked the seal on your intake box? It may be compressed and allowing hot engine air in or it may be collapsing under WOT [with a large blower] and sucking in hot engine air. Have you compared the IAT1 to the IAT2?
 

GT Premi

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Joe, you should do some videos with newer cars; specifically GT500s. If people can see more up-to-date videos of the KC in action, you'll probably move even more units. Most people don't like to take chances or stray from the beaten path with mods. As much as I sing the praises of the KC around here, I'm drowned out by people harping on dual-fan heat exchangers.
 

J.Kincaid

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Joe, you should do some videos with newer cars; specifically GT500s. If people can see more up-to-date videos of the KC in action, you'll probably move even more units. Most people don't like to take chances or stray from the beaten path with mods. As much as I sing the praises of the KC around here, I'm drowned out by people harping on dual-fan heat exchangers.

We just picked up a 2012 GT500 with a stage 2 VMP TVS as our main test car. We'll be using it for R&D and to show off our current kits as well.

Thanks,
Joe
 
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GT Premi

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You won't be disappointed. I have some pix posted up somewhere around here of my install process and some tips/tricks.
 

dirtychamba

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chamba, did you bleed off the coolant system yet?

we did partially... everything except the intercooler under the blower...
i am 99% sure there is gunk in there and this should fix it ...
We'll see monday when we do it.
 

dirtychamba

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You didn't say what blower you have nor what conditions the spikes occur; WOT or near WOT, just cruising, etc. This might sound silly, but have you checked the seal on your intake box? It may be compressed and allowing hot engine air in or it may be collapsing under WOT [with a large blower] and sucking in hot engine air. Have you compared the IAT1 to the IAT2?

3.6 kenne bell... 85+ degrees and sometimes even at 6am ill see a spike go up to 170 and back down to 120 after like 20 seconds.
 

SVTDice

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Make sure you flush your IC really well, and make sure you bleed the air properly. I had this issue and I was having a similar issue you did. The IAT2 temps would not fall quickly, and they would skyrocket if I touched boost. Turned out there was air in the system. You may also have to put the IC on the ground to make it lower than where the pump is to try to help move the air out of the system. Its what I had to do. If you listen closely you can hear the air bubbles.
 

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