I need some tire advice - getting rid of GY's

biminiLX

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Well my baby is 1 year old today and had 3519 miles on her when I had new shoes put on her.

OH HELL YES! These are the tires that should have COME with this car!!! I can take off now and hold it wide open without it fishtailing all over the road. I feel a bit of spin, but not very significant. These Nittos stick like crazy compared to the GYs. The Michelins up front smooth out the ride tremendously and the steering wheel turns much easier now with the MPSSs up front.

All my rims are stock. I see no significant bulge from the 315s on the back either. The 275/40's up front look much better too.

I'm going to go out, check all my air pressures and make sure the lugs are torqued properly, go fill up and have a little fun driving this thing now!!!

It is now like it is attached to a rail!


Great to hear, glad they worked out for you and I fully agree with your impressions.
Now that you're running the tall sticky tire, go for gears and REALLY wake the car up.
-J
 

paluka21

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You do NOT have to do that much.
As well documented in other threads, you can mount 315/35/20 NT05Rs on stock 9.5" wheels and have no problems.
The IDEAL way is to widened the factory wheels, also well documented.
'Great Asp' if you have the time and money, widening the stock wheels to 11" and running 315 NT05Rs may require a 1/4" spacer, maybe none at all.
Member 'shetheri' had his wheels widened to 11.5" by Weldcraft and ran 315/35/20 MPSS tires and only required a 1/4" spacer, no bump stop mods. This is a significantly wider combo than the 11"/315 NT05Rs so you might be able to get around without a spacer, hard to tell.
Either way, have an adjustable panhard rod for any wider tire combo to center the rear.
Just trying to help and give you some advice, the NT05R and the mods you listed are great choices, so the simplest way is to follow your plan as originally posted.
-J

Really? Hmm, I just finished reading quite a few threads on widened rear rims on these cars and how the rim comes in contact with the metal bump stop bracket when the suspension is unloaded. I was not referring to running a wider tire on the *stock* rim.

To clarify, so you're saying that all that is needed is a 1/4" spacer to move the wheel outward on wider rims? What about longer wheel studs then? Is the spacer all that you did?

Edit: Just read through your thread what you did with the 11" widened rears on your car. I was considering 11.5" for mine, but if it changes that much I might just stay with 11".
I did note that shetheri also has the metal location where the bump stop touches altered in addition to spacers with the 11.5" rear wheel, and you mentioned you did the bump stop relocation with yours. Is your car now happy with the rear centered with the adjustable panhard and the 1/2 spacer?

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...259-20-quot-base-wheels-all-around&highlight=
 
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Great Asp

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You do NOT have to do that much.
'Great Asp' if you have the time and money, widening the stock wheels to 11" and running 315 NT05Rs may require a 1/4" spacer, maybe none at all.
Member 'shetheri' had his wheels widened to 11.5" by Weldcraft and ran 315/35/20 MPSS tires and only required a 1/4" spacer, no bump stop mods. This is a significantly wider combo than the 11"/315 NT05Rs so you might be able to get around without a spacer, hard to tell.
Either way, have an adjustable panhard rod for any wider tire combo to center the rear.
Just trying to help and give you some advice, the NT05R and the mods you listed are great choices, so the simplest way is to follow your plan as originally posted.
-J

Not really a money issue, just want to get the tires on the car when the rear gears are changed. Seems safer to have the wheels widened.

Need to climb under there and see how centered the rear is now.

I appreciate the help everyone. I will call Weldcraft tomorrow and see how long they will have the rims.

Looks like some trial and error on the installation, good thing I am starting now!

E
 

biminiLX

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Really? Hmm, I just finished reading quite a few threads on widened rear rims on these cars and how the rim comes in contact with the metal bump stop bracket when the suspension is unloaded. I was not referring to running a wider tire on the *stock* rim.

To clarify, so you're saying that all that is needed is a 1/4" spacer to move the wheel outward on wider rims? What about longer wheel studs then? Is the spacer all that you did?

Edit: Just read through your thread what you did with the 11" widened rears on your car. I was considering 11.5" for mine, but if it changes that much I might just stay with 11".
I did note that shetheri also has the metal location where the bump stop touches altered in addition to spacers with the 11.5" rear wheel, and you mentioned you did the bump stop relocation with yours. Is your car now happy with the rear centered with the adjustable panhard and the 1/2 spacer?

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...259-20-quot-base-wheels-all-around&highlight=

I have a fully built rear, so my car has all the mods to make it as strong as possible for my intended drag use.
For my final combo, I have 9" ends, 33-spline axles with 3" ARP studs, rear bump stop relocation, hubcentric 5/8" to push them out to the max/flush (http://www.mustangwheelspacers.com/). I preferred that to the 1/2 and the 5/8" is the smallest he makes :)
I did the bump stop relocation when the car was at the chassis shop and so I wouldn't have to worry with future slicks or wider DRs.
I doubt the relocation would be needed with the narrower Nittos and the 5/8" spacer.

Based on the goal to use the 315 NT05R which I strongly feel is the best street tire we can run, there are 2 minimal options:
1) mount them on the stock wheels and bolt them on as Blue Angel and others have shown works fine
2) widen the stock wheels to 10.5-11" and run a 1/4" spacer if needed

With option 2, the bump stop should likely not be an issue with this combo but you have to check every car.
Yes, 1/4" spacer is fine with the stock lugs, any further should have longer wheel studs.
Either way, definitely run an adj. panhard bar to center the rear.
-J
 

biminiLX

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Not really a money issue, just want to get the tires on the car when the rear gears are changed. Seems safer to have the wheels widened.

Need to climb under there and see how centered the rear is now.

I appreciate the help everyone. I will call Weldcraft tomorrow and see how long they will have the rims.

Looks like some trial and error on the installation, good thing I am starting now!

E

What are your plans?
If you don't plan to drag often or do 1/2 or full mile top speed events, probably just less headache to run the tires on the stock wheels as Blue Angel has above.
If you don't like the way they look, handle or decide to do some serious competition, you could always then widened them next winter or buy a take off set on here and do to a second set.
Also, if you hadn't pulled the trigger on gears, think about the 4.10s.
With the tall NT05Rs and 4.10s I do 80mph at 2000rpm. I've had both, 4.10s feel better than 3.73s to me by far.
-J
 

Great Asp

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What are your plans?
If you don't plan to drag often or do 1/2 or full mile top speed events, probably just less headache to run the tires on the stock wheels as Blue Angel has above.
If you don't like the way they look, handle or decide to do some serious competition, you could always then widened them next winter or buy a take off set on here and do to a second set.
Also, if you hadn't pulled the trigger on gears, think about the 4.10s.
With the tall NT05Rs and 4.10s I do 80mph at 2000rpm. I've had both, 4.10s feel better than 3.73s to me by far.
-J

You are reading my mind on the wheels/tires. No, I do not see myself going to the track with the 2014, just need better traction. To me, the stock gears are not helpful at all. With the stock exhaust, windows up, the non-existent "feel" for the clutch, and the stock gears even with the brake roll-back feature it can be a challenge on a hill from a dead stop. When I come out harder with the clutch the wheels spin (they shouldn't), or too light and the clutch takes a beating.

I have done a bunch of trolling on the forum, and (I am guessing) 3:73's will be best "for me". But it is just a guess really.

I think I will run the Nitto's on the stock rims at first, THEN after the other mods at the end of the summer maybe see about new wheels, or buying someone else's PP wheels and having those widened. Then I can get the car on the lift and see what I need to fit the larger rim width.

You guys are great, I really appreciate the advice!

I will post pictures and details as I go.

E
 

paluka21

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I have a fully built rear, so my car has all the mods to make it as strong as possible for my intended drag use.
For my final combo, I have 9" ends, 33-spline axles with 3" ARP studs, rear bump stop relocation, hubcentric 5/8" to push them out to the max/flush (http://www.mustangwheelspacers.com/). I preferred that to the 1/2 and the 5/8" is the smallest he makes :)
I did the bump stop relocation when the car was at the chassis shop and so I wouldn't have to worry with future slicks or wider DRs.
I doubt the relocation would be needed with the narrower Nittos and the 5/8" spacer.

Based on the goal to use the 315 NT05R which I strongly feel is the best street tire we can run, there are 2 minimal options:
1) mount them on the stock wheels and bolt them on as Blue Angel and others have shown works fine
2) widen the stock wheels to 10.5-11" and run a 1/4" spacer if needed

With option 2, the bump stop should likely not be an issue with this combo but you have to check every car.
Yes, 1/4" spacer is fine with the stock lugs, any further should have longer wheel studs.
Either way, definitely run an adj. panhard bar to center the rear.
-J

Good info. Thanks.
 

Great Asp

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Exhaust, gears, tires, and tuner on order!

Should have results in a couple of weeks.

I should try to get a before and after exhaust as a point of reference.

E
 

1TUF14SHELBY

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I see Great Asp is in St. Louis where temps can get cool and I'm in MN and pull car out once we get to about 50 degrees. Anyone have experience with the NT05r or NT555r's in 50 degree weather as compared to either the MPSS (I have now) or GY's? Wondering if I can simply swap rear tires and still use car from roughly April to Oct or if I need to buy whole new set of rims to run the r's for just the 4 warm months like end of May to end Sept. Thanks in advance.
 

99SSls1

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No need to worry about the temps. They react the same as any tire but still hook better. If your still running the gy's on the front and driving in 30 degree weather I would be worried. My nt05r's were great but when I tried to turn the gy's weren't.
 

99VERT

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Just installed a pair of 315/35/20 Nitto NTO5Rs this morning. They fit with no mods even when lowered(steeda springs). They have some bulge to them but nothing outrageous. Seat of the pants here in Atlanta 35* weather is they hook with a little spin in 1st then grab like a beast with no spin in second gear. I have 3.55s in the car with an off road X and VMP tune for mods. They do change the handling characteristics of the car. The ass end feels a little sloppier than the F1s but these tires give a softer straightline ride. I think if you could get them in stock size or 295 or even 305 the handling would be improved. The extra "bulge" gives the sloppy feel in my opinion. For straight line they do a great job!
 

biminiLX

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Anyone use or know if the R888s fit the stock rims at 315/30/20. It seems this size would be very close in height.

Less height and sidewall (30 series) makes it a worse fit on the stock wheels, meaning the taller sidewall 315/35 fits a narrower rim easier.
R888s come in the stock 285/35, that's a better bet for the stock wheels and several guys here run them with great results.
-J
 

biminiLX

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Anyone use or know if the R888s fit the stock rims at 315/30/20. It seems this size would be very close in height.

Less height and sidewall (30 series) makes it a worse fit on the stock wheels, meaning the taller sidewall 315/35 fits a narrower rim easier.
R888s come in the stock 285/35, that's a better bet for the stock wheels and several guys here run them with great results.
-J
 

Great Asp

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3:73's.................................check
315 DR's.............................check
Tune...................................check
Stainless Works cat back.......check

Holy smokes!

The car is MUCH easier to start on a hill since the gearing is lower, the tires grip, and you can hear the rev's.

From a roll in first it spins a little, but then goes......nice

The SW exhaust sounds amazing. Deeper and louder tone.

I am very happy with these mods!

E
 

Great Asp

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Question.

What did everyone do for the tire pressure sensors?

My DR's are at 30 lbs, and the sensor telling low tire pressure is coming on.

E
 

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