I need budget rebuild guidance. Like to retain most stock parts.

03SVTKB

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Hey everybody! I do not have much time to get this post out but here we go.
I have an 03 cobra and am going to have the motor rebuilt. Basically she leaned out REAL bad, was burning up o2 sensors and all that fun. Bad vaccume leak. Was rebuilt before. She has a kb 2.2 and all the accompyning mods, and a buncha smaller mods of course :rockon:

So before taking the engine apart we think its either a burnt up compression ring on a cyliner or possible exhaust valve problems or the valve seats.

So I am going to go with a new set of pistons and what ever else is necessary for this rebuilt. I am going to try and reuse whatever I can but want to put in better parts were ever possible.

What do yall suggest???

Head studs, pistons, gaskets, bearings, etc.
Anything at all.

Thanks! :beer:
 

disasterpiece83

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Sure is. Easiest done while the engine is out. Save some future headache and just do them at the same time. I assume with this type of job that he would be open to any mod that may be a good idea. I just had to do the same thing and it was on a budget but i wasnt going to not do some obvious mods such as these. I just realized it said like to retain most stock parts. I apologize. Soooooo no Headers and K member.
 
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SlowSVT

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ARP head and block studs

Clevite steel backed rod and main bearings

Diamond or CP pistons if you got the dough, Manely if you don't. 8.5:1 CR, .300 down top ring 1.5mm/1.5mm/3 mm ring package.

Those are the things that should be changed on a basically stock engine. Everything else depends on what the owner wants and how much money he wants to spend.
 

SlowSVT

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Sure is. Easiest done while the engine is out. Save some future headache and just do them at the same time. I assume with this type of job that he would be open to any mod that may be a good idea. I just had to do the same thing and it was on a budget but i wasnt going to not do some obvious mods such as these. I just realized it said like to retain most stock parts. I apologize. Soooooo no Headers and K member.

At his current power level headers will be a waste of money and create a few headaches. Money better spent elsewhere which I see you now realize. I might be tempted to replace the valve springs in his engine while he's at it. The basic factory engine is pretty stout though :rockon:
 

disasterpiece83

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For sure. I just missed the part that he wants to retain most factory parts. However he has a Kenne Bell. Isnt that when headers shine? High boost? OP it is an expensive venture either way. What are your goals?
 
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Quick Strike

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I like the King high performance bearings in mine. I had a look at several of the rod bearings at 2K after the build and they look like new.

I would also sugggest ARP 2000 capscrews for the rods and reusable side bolts for the mains (along with your possible ARP head and main studs).
 

cobra=trouble

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I like the King high performance bearings in mine. I had a look at several of the rod bearings at 2K after the build and they look like new.

I would also sugggest ARP 2000 capscrews for the rods and reusable side bolts for the mains (along with your possible ARP head and main studs).
say buddy. on my 31k brgs they all looked better then new.
i stillo waitin to see what size brgs i need .i'am getting the H's .and the arp 2000 rod bolts.....BTW one head studs...you got the 2000 grade too ? or the 8740 it think $350 compared to $250 . ?
 

SlowSVT

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I like the King high performance bearings in mine. I had a look at several of the rod bearings at 2K after the build and they look like new.

My factory aluminum backed bearing looked like new after 16K miles. This has nothing to do with the bearings and everything to do with your oiling system. The journals should never touch the bearing and are separated by the oil film. King, Fedral Mogul or Clevite are all quality bearings pick your poison.
 

Quick Strike

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say buddy. on my 31k brgs they all looked better then new.
i stillo waitin to see what size brgs i need .i'am getting the H's .and the arp 2000 rod bolts.....BTW one head studs...you got the 2000 grade too ? or the 8740 it think $350 compared to $250 . ?

Yes, but was roughly 900 FWHP beating on your bearings too?

I am using the 8740 head suds. They are part# 156-4301. They were $206 when I bought them there, but that Summit link has them at $297 now. I think you can find them cheaper if you look around.
 

cobra=trouble

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Yes, but was roughly 900 FWHP beating on your bearings too?

I am using the 8740 head suds. They are part# 156-4301. They were $206 when I bought them there, but that Summit link has them at $297 now. I think you can find them cheaper if you look around.
prices are skyrocketing gas too. soon we will all just be looking at our cars :shrug:

i save 530 bucks i was going to get some long tubes..well when i was going to get them there where 599 bucks ?

going to see if my buget allows for kooks at the end side
so the 8740 bolts are fine for our app.? the 2000s that only like 5 more bucks a bolt i was thinking it that way...id hate to have the drop the motor again to replace a head gasket..esp. with this big bore there's not alot of room between the bores. if you know what i mean :beer:
 

Quick Strike

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King, Fedral Mogul or Clevite are all quality bearings pick your poison.

Read up a little here, and then do as you like. I think there are enough differences to say they are not all created equal even though prices are similar.
 
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Quick Strike

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So the 8740 bolts are fine for our app.? the 2000s that only like 5 more bucks a bolt i was thinking it that way...id hate to have the drop the motor again to replace a head gasket..esp. with this big bore there's not alot of room between the bores. if you know what i mean :beer:

The 8740s are doing fine by me, and I would buy them again for the same build. But, if you still have concern put it to bed with the 2000s. The 2000s are not that much more.
 

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