I knew I should have stuck to oil changes and brake jobs..

foofinator

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Put in my own transmission I said... learn more mechanical skills I said..

Bought a magnum, cannot for the life of me get the transmission to mate with the bellhousing - I'm around 3/4 of an inch off.

Took the T-56 off without removing the bellhousing, and I was hoping that everything would stay lined up. A really crappy Autozone 26 spline clutch alignment tool seemed to fit just fine. Going to try longer bolts tomorrow; I heard if you use the bolts to hold the transmission in place and actuate the clutch, the clutch disks may move a little allowing the input shaft to meet the pilot bearing.

I read a bunch of threads on this, so, this may be more of a rant than anything. That being said, anyone have any suggestions?
 
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Biff-Mach1

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Put in my own transmission I said... learn more mechanical skills I said..

Bought a magnum, cannot for the life of me get the transmission to mate with the bellhousing - I'm around 3/4 of an inch off.

Took the T-56 off without removing the bellhousing, and I was hoping that everything would stay lined up. A really crappy Autozone 26 spline clutch alignment tool seemed to fit just fine. Going to try longer bolts tomorrow; I heard if you use the bolts to hold the transmission in place and actuate the clutch, the clutch disks may move a little allowing the input shaft to meet the pilot bearing.

I read a bunch of threads on this, so, this may be more of a rant than anything. That being said, anyone have any suggestions?

Check for anything on top of the bell housing that's getting caught in between. i had the o2 harness get caught in between
 

MG0h3

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Could be a few things but at 3/4" you are into the clutch splines and just starting to get into the pilot bearing. I've always had more trouble when just doing a trans r/r and not a clutch. I've never used the bolts to pull the trans in as I feel you could damage the pilot bearing or tweak the clutch disc.

I would try different methods of getting the weight off the front of the trans. I usually ended up using home made dowel rods (all thread) and I would support the the trans myself and go by feel. I did at one time have someone depress the clutch fork a little and got lucky.

Sounds like you are at that point. Good luck
 

foofinator

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Those are both good ideas. I'll make sure the harness is out of the way and get some all thread or really long bolts (to support the trans). I'm also thinking about checking my alignment using the old input shaft.

I am reading about people tilting the motor by placing a jack and a block of wood under the harmonic balancer. Any chance of damaging the crank and/or harmonic balancer doing this? Hope not.
 

smashedheadcat

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Don't get frustrated, just wiggle the trans and then try to actuate the clutch. Once the stars align, it'll slide in completely.
 

cj428mach

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How is it you have a 820 rwhp cobra but you only do oil changes and brakes? Mind = blown
 

Black02GT

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Those are both good ideas. I'll make sure the harness is out of the way and get some all thread or really long bolts (to support the trans). I'm also thinking about checking my alignment using the old input shaft.

I am reading about people tilting the motor by placing a jack and a block of wood under the harmonic balancer. Any chance of damaging the crank and/or harmonic balancer doing this? Hope not.

I tilted the engine ever so slightly it does not take much when it's only the motor mounts and no transmission mount, this was more to get my old one out. I also took the bell off and put the new transmission in with it on since it was different. It's a tight fit uptop make sure your not hitting the tunnel somewhere.

The Harbor Freight Tranny Scissor Jack/Dolly also makes life 100X nicer.
 
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P49Y-CY

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A really crappy Autozone 26 spline clutch alignment tool seemed to fit just fine. Going to try longer bolts tomorrow;

don't use longer bolts to pull it together, you'll do damage.

the problem is your plastic clutch alignment tool. use a steel alignment tool.

i ran into this exact same problem a couple years ago; i think i probably posted about it. the plastic tool seemed to fit fine, but it kept the discs misaligned just enough to prevent the trans from hitting home. pulled the trans a couple times couldn't figure what it was. but first shot with steel tool, slid right in. you could feel how the splines were binding with the steel tool but did not with the plastic tool.

also as someone said, raise the front of the engine to give you a better angle.

my bet, based on what you describe, is exactly what happened to me. best of luck with it!

edit - just saw this: "I'm also thinking about checking my alignment using the old input shaft."

yes, do that
 
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Zemedici

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How is it you have a 820 rwhp cobra but you only do oil changes and brakes? Mind = blown

some people pay others to get dirty, so they dont have to. :)

or he doesnt have the time to dedicate to building a car of that caliber.
 

RichM1983

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You don't need the longer bolts do do what your talking about with the clutch. Just have someone get in the car and once you get it as far as you can have them begin to slowly push the pedal in. If it starts pushing the trans back then stop. I've never had to do this with the cobra so the stiff clutch may not allow you to do this. I did it with my dads Chevy Tracker. Worth a shot at least.

Good luck!
 

hotcobra03

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Have you pulled clutch yet to see if disc slides on to splines..

could be twisted shaft if trans was a rebuilt or used..
 

98 Saleen Cobra

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Check for clearance in the tunnel for the Magnum.. Most have to bang the shit out of the tunnel for a BFH to get it to fit.. It's not a slide in application so to speak..
 

RichM1983

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Check for clearance in the tunnel for the Magnum.. Most have to bang the shit out of the tunnel for a BFH to get it to fit.. It's not a slide in application so to speak..

I did not realize the Magnum had external dimensions that differ from a regular T-56. I learned a new one today.
 

Bigggy

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Done it twice and both times I pulled the trans with the bolts, but for 1/4" not 3/4". There was no resistance at all and you simply need to be carefull doing a little at a time on each bolts. People will screw up doing this cause they will ram the bolts in. Me I always tight stuff by hand.

In your case for 3/4" there might be something else.
 

foofinator

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Thanks all for the advice.

Today I'm going to:

1) Get my neighbor to help me wiggle and stab the transmission a few times; if it won't go, then to step 2 (we will check for clearance with the tunnel);
2) Pull transmission back down and check alignment with old 26 spline input shaft; and
3) If alignment is good and the transmission STILL wont go on, I'll put some all thread or long bolts to help take the weight of the front of the transmission and commence aggravated wiggling.

At that point, I'll call a tow truck. Anyone know a good shop in Austin? :)


I've done just about everything other than motor and transmission R&R.
 

Zemedici

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triple check the harnesses at the top of the trans and make sure they're not getting stuck in between the two
 

elcobrita

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How is it you have a 820 rwhp cobra but you only do oil changes and brakes? Mind = blown

I have a pool but pay someone to do the maintenance on it. Does that mean im unworthy of having a pool?


Thanks all for the advice.

Today I'm going to:

1) Get my neighbor to help me wiggle and stab the transmission a few times; if it won't go, then to step 2 (we will check for clearance with the tunnel);
2) Pull transmission back down and check alignment with old 26 spline input shaft; and
3) If alignment is good and the transmission STILL wont go on, I'll put some all thread or long bolts to help take the weight of the front of the transmission and commence aggravated wiggling.

At that point, I'll call a tow truck. Anyone know a good shop in Austin? :)


I've done just about everything other than motor and transmission R&R.

I had a hell of a time getting my transmission to seat too when i did my RXT. As someone mentioned, the plastic alignment tool sucks, they tend to bend slightly when you tighten the pressure plate up. Make sure you use a steel one if possible.

Another issue is make sure your tranny is in gear. One time a friend and I were wiggling his t56 to try and get it to seat, well the disc kept on spinning. Once we put it in gear, with a little wiggling it went right in.
 

Black02GT

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I did not realize the Magnum had external dimensions that differ from a regular T-56. I learned a new one today.

Yup, different ribbing on the front and sides and has a longer tail section requiring a new driveshaft plus switching the crossmember around. It's close to direct replacement but not exactly.
 

P49Y-CY

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Thanks all for the advice.

Today I'm going to:

1) Get my neighbor to help me wiggle and stab the transmission a few times; if it won't go, then to step 2 (we will check for clearance with the tunnel);
2) Pull transmission back down and check alignment with old 26 spline input shaft; and
3) If alignment is good and the transmission STILL wont go on, I'll put some all thread or long bolts to help take the weight of the front of the transmission and commence aggravated wiggling.

At that point, I'll call a tow truck. Anyone know a good shop in Austin? :)


I've done just about everything other than motor and transmission R&R.

my money is on #2 will do the trick

let us know how you make out!
 

foofinator

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my money is on #2 will do the trick

let us know how you make out!

Bingo, once I lined it up with the old input shaft (it was slightly off), transmission just popped in.

To anyone reading this later and having similar problems, make sure the clutch is perfectly aligned relative to the pilot bearing. It's really easy to do this even leaving the bellhousing in place.

Thanks fellas.
 

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