I am 'Ruining' a Collector Cobra - The I'm making your low mileage stock cobra more valuable Build

98 svt

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Because this car will be 6 figures with the miles.

If OP wants to build a cobra, buy a driver.

The end goal is the same, having a custom cobra. So why do it with a wrapper car?

Just my .02

But his money his choice - in4build


Many many members on here started with a wrapper car back in 03/04.
The people that still own wrapper cars dont mind either I bet. Just brings theirs up a little more. There are A LOT of wrapper Terminators still out there.
 

HuntFishCobra

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I’ve never understood keep it stock until you die so your kids inherit a non modified car mentality. This car will be absolutely amazing modded!
 

DSG2003Mach1

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I’ve never understood keep it stock until you die so your kids inherit a non modified car mentality. This car will be absolutely amazing modded!
in cases like this it seems a little confusing because they paid a premium for a low mile, stock car. If I wanted to mod a car I'd spend less on higher miles or already modded but thats me. I wont lose any sleep over it
 

Bdubbs

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in cases like this it seems a little confusing because they paid a premium for a low mile, stock car. If I wanted to mod a car I'd spend less on higher miles or already modded but thats me. I wont lose any sleep over it
Bingo.

I know every used car can potentially have it's problems. I personally would never buy something with that low of mileage. Having a car sit for long periods of time is about the worst thing you can do. And then slap a bigger blower on top of it.

These motors as strong as they are, have had plenty of problems. And things like the head "tick" seems more common on low mileage cars.

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wckdvnm

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To “un-shitbox” a terminator it would cost well north of 40k in parts easy. That is no easy task; I have a parts list made up for my build and it continues to grow as more modern cars are just getting faster.

IMO to modernize a terminator/newedge could be done but it is a way larger undertaking than OP thinks.

Good example is just how much money it would take to modernize a 4.6 mod motor. Sure there is a wealth of knowledge that is now hampered by parts availability but that is huge money just on a motor build. But you are looking a about quarter of the 40k amount I mentioned to build a max effort 4.6 4v.
Best saving grace of this car is that it is a clean slate not needing paint and body.

Most of the modernization to be had is in suspension and chassis knowledge learned over the years.
 
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HPLouis

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To “un-shitbox” a terminator it would cost well north of 40k in parts easy. That is no easy task; I have a parts list made up for my build and it continues to grow as more modern cars are just getting faster.

IMO to modernize a terminator/newedge could be done but it is a way larger undertaking than OP thinks.


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This is very true. I added up just the price of parts that the prior owner spent on my car and it was over $35K. He saved because he did his own work but I bet it would be double if he had to pay for labor.

I'm guessing it'll be an additional $15K-$20K for a returnless fuel system, Magnum tranny and Whipple. Modding is very expensive.
 

wckdvnm

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This is very true. I added up just the price of parts that the prior owner spent on my car and it was over $35K. He saved because he did his own work but I bet it would be double if he had to pay for labor.

I'm guessing it'll be an additional $15K-$20K for a returnless fuel system, Magnum tranny and Whipple. Modding is very expensive.

Yeah that 40k number was made before things like the gen 5 whipple and intercooler advancements. These cars are far from cheap and I am glad I don’t own a mystichrome like you guys have and had because the paint cost alone along with scarcity of replacement leather.
 

HPLouis

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Yeah that 40k number was made before things like the gen 5 whipple and intercooler advancements. These cars are far from cheap and I am glad I don’t own a mystichrome like you guys have and had because the paint cost alone along with scarcity of replacement leather.

I’ve also noticed the prices have gone up recently. Before the pandemic, the Borla Stinger catback was $699 and the ATAK was $749. I just checked the prices on Lethal and they’re now $1,095.99 for the Stinger and $1,283.99 for the ATAK!

The Mystichrome parts are crazy. The steering runs for about $2K because of the leather and that’s a recovered wheel.

Thankfully, the prior owner saw the wear points on the old Mystichrome seat and didn’t use the Mystichrome leather on the lower part of the seat bottom on these seats he had made.

IMG_1059.JPG



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stangfreak

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Bingo.

I know every used car can potentially have it's problems. I personally would never buy something with that low of mileage. Having a car sit for long periods of time is about the worst thing you can do. And then slap a bigger blower on top of it.

These motors as strong as they are, have had plenty of problems. And things like the head "tick" seems more common on low mileage cars.

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The head tick happened on brand new cobra's just coming out of the show room floor. My car has it. Lots of people back in the day had it. and I am talking in 2003. JT on modularfords and other guys on there were running 11.20's 11.40's with basic bolt on's with the head tick. No hinder in performance. My car with the tick went 12.32 at 116mph with borla stingers and a steeda filter only. 1.97 60ft on stock F1 tires
 

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