"How To" remove right rear knuckle?

[NCStanger]

I think I have a bad wheel bearing and am wondering on how to proceed. I have printed out how to on replacing rear wheel bearing, but pics don't come up, and have read much out here about axle and wheel bearings, and importance of axle nut torque and replacing it. I have a buddy that's getting an air gun to help. Not sure what tools we may need either. I did read where one guy was just going to take off the entire "knuckle" and take it in and have someone press in new bearings. This sounds like the way I might want to go. My buddy will probably want to do ALL of it to help save me money which is cool, I just don't want us to get any more frustrated than we have to.

Anyway, in the writeup on replacing wheel bearing it says to remove knuckle first thing. Then it says see writeup on how to do this. Howevr that writeup could not be found. So anyone wanna take a stab at briefly explaining what needs to be done to just do that. Thanks in advance. Adam (not :rolling: )

 

[exdeath]

Raise the vehicle on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .

Remove the wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .

Remove and discard the rear hub retainer (4B477).

Disconnect the parking brake cable and conduit from the parking brake lever.

Remove the clip and disconnect the parking brake cable and conduit from the rear brake caliper.

Disconnect the parking brake cable and conduit from the knuckle (5A968/5A969).

Remove the rear brake disc. For additional information, refer to Section 206-04 .

Support the lower suspension arm and bushing (5A649) with a jack stand.

Remove the nut and bolt and disconnect the shock absorber (18125) from the lower suspension arm and bushing. Discard the nut and bolt.

Remove and discard the cotter pin and nut.

CAUTION: Do not strike the toe link or the knuckle to disconnect the toe link. The toe link or the knuckle can be damaged.

Using the special tool, disconnect the toe link (5K899) from the knuckle.

Mark the cam bolt position relative to the upper suspension arm and bushing (5500).

NOTE: Mark a new cam bolt in the same position as the old one for assembly reference before discarding the old bolt.

Disconnect the upper suspension arm and bushing from the knuckle.

Remove and discard the nut and bolt.

Disconnect the arm and bushing from the knuckle.

Using the special tool, press the axle shaft from the hub (1109).

Remove the knuckle from the lower arm and bushing.

Remove and discard the nut and bolt.

Remove the knuckle.

Remove the dust shield, hub, snap ring and bearing from the knuckle. For additional information, refer to Wheel Hub—Cobra in this section.


Special tools you'll need are a tie rod puller (or plastic/rubber mallet), a press, snap ring pliers, and a set of step plates to support both bearing races (or big sockets) when pressing in the new bearing. Possibly a crank pulley style puller tool to separate the hub from the axle splines if they are in there really right. The parking brake cable has to be completely undone because it's run through a loop cast into the knuckle instead of a separate tie down. Make sure the lower control arm is slightly loaded and supported with a jack stand so there is no pressure on the lower shock mount and so the control arm doesn't come crashing down and a spring flying out when you pull the shock bolt out (not sure you really have to unbolt the shock, that's just how it is in the manual).

Pressing the bearing in is easy. Press the outer race into the knuckle, then press the hub into the bearing, with the inner race supported from below.

Tie rod end : 35 lb/ft
Shock to lower control arm : 98 lb/ft
Lower control arm to knuckle: 85 lb/ft
upper control arm to knuckle (cam bolt) : 66 lb/ft
Axle hub nut : 240 lb/ft
caliper to bracket : 25 lb/ft
Caliper bracket to knuckle : 76 lb/ft

 

[ac427cobra]

IRS halfshaft/knuckle removal

:thumbsup::coolman::beer:

 

[exdeath]

IRS halfshaft/knuckle removal

:thumbsup::coolman::beer:

:rockon:

 

[NCStanger]

Just wanted to say thanks for your writeup. It helped us some today. 2 knukleheads were able to remove 1 knuckle successfully. However the lower control arm was stuck to the knuckle and we had to remove the control arm with it. LOL... I decided to pay someone to press out/press in bearing. Went to Ford dealer where I just spent about $2K on tranny and rearend work on my 8 month old used F150 FX4. (A WHOLE OTHER STORY). Guy who helped me with truck was not there but we asked what they would charge to do it and they wanted $160. We left. On the way home, my knucklehead buddy calls another dealer and asked what would they charge to replace wheel bearing in 03 cobra and they quoated only $286. Then he asked how much to just press in new bearing if we bring the knukle in, and he says WE WILL DO THAT FOR FREE FOR YOU, bring it on in.

So we get there and sure enough the manager carries us into service area and we watch the mechanic press old out and in with new one. Here's the bummer part. Damage (too much) had been done to my hub. Figured it's not too much probably. $295 OMG! The next time I hear the first squeek from a wheel I'm checking the bearing immediately! The part gets here tomorrow and they said they would call me when knuckle is ready to go. Oh and I was lucky the lower control arm wasn't damaged also as he had to bang and ultimately "fork" out the bolt stuck in the knuckle. He tore a small hole in the boot and said just grease more often or maybe I could find one.

I wondered if maybe I should go ahead and change out the bearing on other side before it damages another hub, but mechanic at Ford didn't really recommend it as long as wheel was tight. I used a Timken bearing I believe it was called that cost $31.99 at Autozone.

Thanks again.

 

[ac427cobra]

Just wanted to say thanks for your writeup. It helped us some today. 2 knukleheads were able to remove 1 knuckle successfully. However the lower control arm was stuck to the knuckle and we had to remove the control arm with it. LOL... I decided to pay someone to press out/press in bearing. Went to Ford dealer where I just spent about $2K on tranny and rearend work on my 8 month old used F150 FX4. (A WHOLE OTHER STORY). Guy who helped me with truck was not there but we asked what they would charge to do it and they wanted $160. We left. On the way home, my knucklehead buddy calls another dealer and asked what would they charge to replace wheel bearing in 03 cobra and they quoated only $286. Then he asked how much to just press in new bearing if we bring the knukle in, and he says WE WILL DO THAT FOR FREE FOR YOU, bring it on in.

So we get there and sure enough the manager carries us into service area and we watch the mechanic press old out and in with new one. Here's the bummer part. Damage (too much) had been done to my hub. Figured it's not too much probably. $295 OMG! The next time I hear the first squeek from a wheel I'm checking the bearing immediately! The part gets here tomorrow and they said they would call me when knuckle is ready to go. Oh and I was lucky the lower control arm wasn't damaged also as he had to bang and ultimately "fork" out the bolt stuck in the knuckle. He tore a small hole in the boot and said just grease more often or maybe I could find one.

I wondered if maybe I should go ahead and change out the bearing on other side before it damages another hub, but mechanic at Ford didn't really recommend it as long as wheel was tight. I used a Timken bearing I believe it was called that cost $31.99 at Autozone.

Thanks again.

I sell remanufactured knuckle assemblies for $225 on an exchange basis:

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...le-remanufactured-irs-knuckle-assemblies.html

In my knuckle rebuild video:

http://www.fulltiltboogieracing.com/Videos/CobraIRSknucklerebuild.wmv

I go through the entire knuckle rebuilding process. I also state that you want to avoid buying after market 'ball' bearings from places such as NAPA, Auto-Zone and the like. Most of these after market bearings are 'ball' bearings and they will fail MUCH sooner than the Ford double tapered roller bearings will.

Your bearing failed most likely because your halfshaft retaining nut came loose. Once this happens the bearing will self distruct. If run long enough this will destroy the hub as well.

In my IRS Informational Article:

Mystery of IRS

I state how important it is to check these regularly:

IRS Maintenance



One item that is frequently overlooked regarding the IRS are regular checks of the torque on the rear axle halfshaft nuts. These are the 36mm nuts that attach the halfshaft to the rear hub on the knuckle. The torque on these nuts should be checked on a regular basis. If your car never goes to a race track, four times a year should be sufficient. Torque these 36mm nuts to 240-250 ft. lbs. If you’re going to a race track, torque before EVERY event.

FWIW

:thumbsup::coolman::beer: