How to keep AC compressor on in CD weather for killer chiller?

[digital911]

Does anyone know how to keep the compressor running in cold weather (sub 50's)? What happens is after a few minutes running the compressor starts kicking on and off ever few seconds and that obviously kills the performance of my killer chiller. Thanks

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[MalcolmV8]

Maybe your blower doesn't put out enough heat? What blower? With my 2.9 Whipple my a/c ran full time even in the 40s.

This may also contribute, I changed the orifice tube in my system. It's located right before the KC unit. You can adjust the size to prioritize what gets the most cooling, cabin or the KC unit. They ship with a happy medium so a/c is about 50/50 on the KC unit and the cabin cooling. I changed mine so the KC got the majority of the cooling and the cabin cooling suffered. That also means my KC unit is heating the a/c charge more than stock. Possibly contributing to why my a/c ran constantly in colder weather.

 

[digital911]

Maybe your blower doesn't put out enough heat? What blower? With my 2.9 Whipple my a/c ran full time even in the 40s.

This may also contribute, I changed the orifice tube in my system. It's located right before the KC unit. You can adjust the size to prioritize what gets the most cooling, cabin or the KC unit. They ship with a happy medium so a/c is about 50/50 on the KC unit and the cabin cooling. I changed mine so the KC got the majority of the cooling and the cabin cooling suffered. That also means my KC unit is heating the a/c charge more than stock. Possibly contributing to why my a/c ran constantly in colder weather.

TVS 2.3. what does your iat2 temps range at with your new orifice setup?

 

[V6&V8SHO]

I just run floor/defrost. Heats the cabin and the tank is ice cold.

 

[MalcolmV8]

TVS 2.3. what does your iat2 temps range at with your new orifice setup?

I changed the orifice tube at the same time I changed refrigerants so it's hard to pin point an exact number. Since more of the a/c refrigerant is released into the KC unit due to the larger orifice it cools quicker. So the main thing I noticed is quicker recovery after making WOT pulls and quicker pull down in temps if cruising along fully warmed and then you turn on the a/c.

The TVS doesn't put out a ton of heat till spin them hard.

 

[digital911]

I just run floor/defrost. Heats the cabin and the tank is ice cold.

I do too, but my compressor kicks on and off so the tank could get even colder if the compressor stayed on.

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[Blu13gt]

A/C systems work in a pressure range. If your compressor is cycling repeatedly then you might need to service your system. If it is at the correct pressure then forcing the compressor to stay on will build too much pressure and damage something. There are othe rparts that could be causing issues like the orifice or maybe a pressure switch has failed or is failing.

 

[digital911]

A/C systems work in a pressure range. If your compressor is cycling repeatedly then you might need to service your system. If it is at the correct pressure then forcing the compressor to stay on will build too much pressure and damage something. There are othe rparts that could be causing issues like the orifice or maybe a pressure switch has failed or is failing.

It only cycles when it's cold outside. Sounds like it's just doing its job? If I changed the pressure to suite the cold weather wouldn't that screw up the AC "tune" for the hot weather that it's currently set to?

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[Blu13gt]

Its possibly because of the colder temperaturs outside. However its not good for the components to be cycling on and off rapidly. How many times would you estimate it cycles on/off in 1 min and 5 min respectively? The pressure it should be set at is a pressure range not a specific number range. Outside tempratures shouldnt be able to push the coolant pressures above or below the specifications. I would still get the pressure tested to make sure its within spec and if its low find the leak.

 

[digital911]

Its possibly because of the colder temperaturs outside. However its not good for the components to be cycling on and off rapidly. How many times would you estimate it cycles on/off in 1 min and 5 min respectively? The pressure it should be set at is a pressure range not a specific number range. Outside tempratures shouldnt be able to push the coolant pressures above or below the specifications. I would still get the pressure tested to make sure its within spec and if its low find the leak.

If I run the AC MAX w/ MAX Fan, it probably cycles on and off every 30 seconds or so. If I put it on defrost and switch the heat to about middle, it rapidly cycles, like once every 5-10 seconds. I will get some gauges and check the refrigerant levels. But what you're saying is, if it's charged properly, then the compressor should stay on even in outside cold ambient temps?

 

[Blu13gt]

Not stay on but it shouldnt cycle that often. In my experience it should cycle every 30 sec max. Not saying im for sure right since this is a bit of a different application than what im used to. But the system is the same overall and rapid cycling is a symptom of a problem in the system, usually low coolant pressures.

 

[digital911]

Not stay on but it shouldnt cycle that often. In my experience it should cycle every 30 sec max. Not saying im for sure right since this is a bit of a different application than what im used to. But the system is the same overall and rapid cycling is a symptom of a problem in the system, usually low coolant pressures.

OK that makes sense.

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[Blu13gt]

Did you test the system yet?

 

[digital911]

Did you test the system yet?

No hopefully this weekend I can get a hold of a set of guages.

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[digital911]

Did you test the system yet?

Tested today and low side was about 30psi. I added one can of refrigerant and it went up to 33psi. I made mistake when I disconnected the high side port, I did not turn off the valve so when I disconnected I lost some refrigerant/oil (was a greenish color). I hope that is OK. I was planning to test the system tomorrow to see if compressor starts cycling. From just idling tonight in my driveway for 10mns or so it did not cycle and was blowing colder than before the additional refrigerant. What do you think?

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[olympic]

Hope you get it sorted out. I've use mine all the way down to sub freezing temps and it kept working normally.

 

[digital911]

Hope you get it sorted out. I've use mine all the way down to sub freezing temps and it kept working normally.

Any idea what your low side pressure is?

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[Blu13gt]

You set pressure on the low side. You lost some oil as long as it wasnt a lot it shouldnt be an issue. Im not an HVAC guy. However there should be instructions somewhere online for how to service properly, and the proper pressure. I have been in the automotive field for a long time off and on though an hopefully the pressure increase will fix your issue.

 

[digital911]

I changed the orifice tube at the same time I changed refrigerants so it's hard to pin point an exact number. Since more of the a/c refrigerant is released into the KC unit due to the larger orifice it cools quicker. So the main thing I noticed is quicker recovery after making WOT pulls and quicker pull down in temps if cruising along fully warmed and then you turn on the a/c.

The TVS doesn't put out a ton of heat till spin them hard.

I have a stock lower and 2.8 upper. Do you consider spinning that hard?

Also did you bypass your H/E?

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[MalcolmV8]

I have a stock lower and 2.8 upper. Do you consider spinning that hard?

Also did you bypass your H/E?

No but that should be hard enough to keep your a/c working. From everything I've read above you need your a/c serviced but someone who knows what they're doing. You need a proper manifold gauge set with high and low readings. Just looking at the low side is shooting blindly. It could be as simple as your system is incorrectly charged but pressure readings (high and low together) can also reveal a problem in your system that an experienced person would pick up on.

I kept my heat exchanger in the loop. I had bypassed it initially when I first got the system running and had a poor experience. My a/c was not correctly charged yet and it cycled out and the intercooler fluid got hot, forced past the cap on the over flow and sprayed all over the engine bay. I got that sorted out and noted readings driving around town and making pulls. I then put the heat exchanger back in the loop and read basically identical readings. So I decided to leave it as a back up if my a/c ever failed the car would not over heat and strand me puking coolant all over again.