How to connect air fuel gage

NIT2WN

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Ordered it today. Since the owner is out of state due to the hurricane, he is going to have it drop shipped Monday. Thanks for the info and advice. I was starting to get tired of looking at parts boxes.
 

crazy4ink

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I know what you mean about parts boxes. I've been ordering stuff for my Jeep and my Lightning from here in Korea and having them shipped to my dad's house. He's starting to think I'm trying to build a car through mail order!

Glad I could help!
Rob
 

NIT2WN

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I would like a #4 or #6 pulley, gator belt, 8 plugs and a programmer in a RWTD box from James but it's got to wait. Hopefully in a few months I'll get that box with a FTVB along with it. Don't you know my wife just loves me.
 

crazy4ink

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Yeah, my wife is getting to the point where she has to ask which vehicle I'm ordering stuff for. IMO go with the 4# lower. 6# causes your blower to get hot.
 

NIT2WN

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I've heard that but James at RWTD said a #6 would be okay with a good tune. I can't afford to replace blowers often so I'll probably go with the #4 daily driving and get a #6 for the track. It gets pretty hot in Bama during the summer. You think I could run a #6 with an Apten port job? James seem to think I could get 100 rwh with the #6. I haven't heard what the #4 would do.
 

crazy4ink

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Yeah I'm sure you could run a 6# lower with a ported blower, but you may also want to look into an aftermarket heat exchanger just to help fit the high air charge temps.
 

RUNVS?

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Even with an aggressive tune, you'd be hard pressed to get 100 RWHP with just a 6# lower. Probably more like 50-60 RWHP. If 14 total lbs of boost is your goal, go with a 4# lower and a 2# interchangeable upper.

There is not much gain to be had above 14 lbs of boost on a stock Eaton blower. The Roots-type Eaton blower tends to start losing efficiency after 6 extra lbs of boost and the additonal heat it generates typically offsets any performance increase higher boost would provide.
 
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