How much HP can a stock 03/04 cobra motor hold. I'm going to be doing a swap here after I get my chassis done. I want to keep the factory Eaton on it and just do a twin turbo kit. but I'm curious if I should semi build the motor while its out the car or not. My goal is 750ish HP. Money is a factor so this will not be complete for a year our two. Plus I need to find a wrecked donor cobra
how much HP
- Thread starter Sprayed2v
- Start date
exactly 908hp.
Theres vids of these motors taking upwards of 800hp on stock internals from oil pan to valve cover with big twin snails and decent boost numbers (15-20psi) with support. Need to keep boost low, and use good fuel (e85) to keep the pistons and rods happy.
Theres vids of these motors taking upwards of 800hp on stock internals from oil pan to valve cover with big twin snails and decent boost numbers (15-20psi) with support. Need to keep boost low, and use good fuel (e85) to keep the pistons and rods happy.
01cobravortech
Banned
I'd be asking how long can that motor live at said hp.
This
A good tune is your friend.
Talk about beating the dead horse.... Jesus **** the search button is your friend
your asking because you have a 2004 mustang gt?
He's looking for a wrecked donor '03-'04 Cobra, so I would guess the project will start when said donor Cobra is found.
Yea... Search engine doesn't work on my phone and I don't have a computer .so sorry if I didn't want to dig through millions of pages to find something
Did u even read the post. says I'm gonna be doing a swap.
Thank u for explaining
Compound boost?
Yes. I remember reading about people doing this when the termis came out with huge results. But I want to do motor work if needed while the motor is out of the car to save on labor.Ofc this its a huge project and I can only do over big thing at a time since in building out loan by loan. Only have a few more suspension mods left then the chassis is done and ready for the HP I want
OP, the weak part of the engine is the pistons and bearings. They have forged manley H-beam rods and a forged crank. The rods are good to 1000hp and the crank is good to over 1500hp. The problem is the pistons and bearings. If you have a good tune they can live at 800whp but the first tank of bad gas you get will net you a blown motor. So meth injection, E85 or race gas is a very good investment.
The question is not how much hp a stock cobra motor will hold? It should be can a stock 03 cobra motor handle 750 rwhp reliably? Ive seen a compounded cobra make 1200 rwhp but it didnt last very long. I heard when it blew it looked like somone stuffed a granade inside and let her blow.
As op mentioned the pistons are a weak link and ill add rings to that list as well.
As op mentioned the pistons are a weak link and ill add rings to that list as well.
Pistons, piston rings, wrist pins, bearings, oil pump, and rod bolts.
Replace those and you should be good to go.
The Piston to wall clearance is way too tight.
Piston rings are plasma moly and not recommended for anything over 17psi.
Wrist pins are .155 wall Chrome moly which is good for 700 or so depending on power adder and how its driven as a two step will beat the piss out of the wrist pins.
Bearings are too soft.
Oil pump needed to be a TSS billet oil pump(no, nothing else)
Rod bolts are made from 8740 and while they are ok you need to have a 2:1 safety margin in rod bolt strength. As the rod reaches TDC overlap, those two rod bolts start to stretch and are the only things holding that rod and piston from trying to exit through your cylinder head. Replace the rod bolts, torque them down with the cap on, and have them checked for roundness.
Just my two cents.
Replace those and you should be good to go.
The Piston to wall clearance is way too tight.
Piston rings are plasma moly and not recommended for anything over 17psi.
Wrist pins are .155 wall Chrome moly which is good for 700 or so depending on power adder and how its driven as a two step will beat the piss out of the wrist pins.
Bearings are too soft.
Oil pump needed to be a TSS billet oil pump(no, nothing else)
Rod bolts are made from 8740 and while they are ok you need to have a 2:1 safety margin in rod bolt strength. As the rod reaches TDC overlap, those two rod bolts start to stretch and are the only things holding that rod and piston from trying to exit through your cylinder head. Replace the rod bolts, torque them down with the cap on, and have them checked for roundness.
Just my two cents.
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