I will be picking up my new to me Mach from a member here on the site this Saturday and I am looking at adding a few bolt ons to the car. The car already has a O/R X-pipe and magnapacks so I am looking at adding some LT's. I have researched it a bit and some people claim it's the worst install ever while others say it's not that terrible. Just looking to hear some first hand experience from those who've done the install themselves.
How many of you installed your LT's yourself?
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I did the install on my 96 cobra and it was my first longtube install into a modular. The job really isn't that bad, just a little time consuming. It took me a total of 7-8 hrs to do but that also included installing new ball joints, control arm bushings, and rack and pinion solid bushings. You might just need a hand when removing/installing the k-member.
Thanks for the quick response and sharing your experience. I'm fairly mechanically inclined so I don't think it will be a big challenge for me but hearing first hand experience from others with tips and suggestions is always nice. Thanks again!
Just make sure and use OEM style header metal/alum header gaskets and soak the header bolts in penetrating fluid before trying to remove them.
Biggest thing would be hoping you don't break any studs...but I have read that removing the K member and supporting the motor from the top is by far the best/easiest way to do it. Otherwise you have to wrestle with everything.
Good post!
Like other members stated remove the k member is the easiest way.
I took it one step further I replaced my k member at the same time and access was amazing easier.
Defiantly recommend having a friend to help. It took me 5 hours to do the complete swap myself w/ k member.
Most important though is spend the money and buy great headers! Fitment is essential!
I installed kooks..
This is one of those areas that if you go cheap, better be ready to camp out and or have plenty of dry wall patch. Your going to need it.
Like other members stated remove the k member is the easiest way.
I took it one step further I replaced my k member at the same time and access was amazing easier.
Defiantly recommend having a friend to help. It took me 5 hours to do the complete swap myself w/ k member.
Most important though is spend the money and buy great headers! Fitment is essential!
I installed kooks..
This is one of those areas that if you go cheap, better be ready to camp out and or have plenty of dry wall patch. Your going to need it.
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save more money, buy a tubular K at the same time. I did mine myself. took me a full saturday. But doing the K at the same time was well worth it. and the Tubular k/a's was definitly worth the money. Made the Mach handle much better.
Thanks for all the great advice guys. I'll be sure to look into the tubular K. The easier I can make the install the better so I'll definitely drop the K when/if I do install headers. I've done several header installs and several downpipe installs so the work itself isn't new to me however the platform is. Thanks again for your tips and suggestions.
AGREED..
BTW the K member and LT's took me 5 hours. The over all project defiantly took the better part of the day.
Setting the car up.. dropping the mid pipe, lowering the cat-back yadda yadda ...
After supporting the engine, If im wrong correct me .. but it was 12 bolts on the K member including the 4 for the front sway bar, hung the calipers, 4 bolts for the struts, 2 for the motor mounts, 1 bolt from the steering shaft, I made solid aluminum rack bushings for my UPR K member, so i removed that and installed the bump steer kit.
So not much more in removing the K member to install the LT's... NOTE the Long tubes with a stock K member is a BASTARD!!!! your going to have a MFing time putting the steering shaft through the header .. ::cringe just thinking about it:: among other knuckle busting things.
My stock manifolds had no issues coming off, once i got the stock K member off i soaked the header bolts down with something to release the bolts, let it sit while i assembled the new k member.
Then simply reversed to reinstall... FYI to each there own when selecting an after market K member.
I was torn between the MM K member and the UPR. the difference between the two at the time was about $200 to $300... and the MM was heavier. I'm not a fan of UPR products as much but i have to say it was a GREAT buy, very good quality and fitment issues were non existent.
I wouldn't put long tube headers on if you are running simple bolt on's and do not have some sort of power adder. Stock manifold are just DANDY ask around.. ( call shops )
I wouldn't put long tube headers on if you can't afford to buy a K member at the same time.
IMHO save your money, buy the K member, front coil overs, LT's maybe depending on your motor mount condition, get new also.
Swap everything out at the same time.. You'll be very pleased with the results. I promise. :beer:
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UPR is good for saving money if you can afford to spend extra time or money IF NEED BE to get the part to fit/work.
My UPR trippl hook quadrant did not have a big enough clearance hold to slide on the clutch shaft during install...so a little sanding with a round file did the trick. Works just as well as others but a little tweaking was needed
Any big ticket item, I would be weary of UPR. You get what you pay for. If you HAVE to do this in a weekend and it's your DD, I would almost wait longer to save and get the MM stuff...you are almost guarenteed everything to fit and work on the first shot....saving you time and hassle overall.
UPR, from what I have gathered, is a 50-50 shot for fitment. Weigh your own options on what you can deal with and what you can't.
And search around, I found one step by step install on allfordmustangs or something one time. I believe it was on a 2V but as far as reference pics it would help.
EDIT: another thing with MM, when I did my quadrant, I actually called them up telling them that UPR's directions SUCKED and they helped me out over the phone even though I didn't buy from them. UPR....well they were as helpful as their single sheet with no pics for directions...MM had a 3 or 4 pg set of directions with pics to install it that I used.
My UPR trippl hook quadrant did not have a big enough clearance hold to slide on the clutch shaft during install...so a little sanding with a round file did the trick. Works just as well as others but a little tweaking was needed
Any big ticket item, I would be weary of UPR. You get what you pay for. If you HAVE to do this in a weekend and it's your DD, I would almost wait longer to save and get the MM stuff...you are almost guarenteed everything to fit and work on the first shot....saving you time and hassle overall.
UPR, from what I have gathered, is a 50-50 shot for fitment. Weigh your own options on what you can deal with and what you can't.
And search around, I found one step by step install on allfordmustangs or something one time. I believe it was on a 2V but as far as reference pics it would help.
EDIT: another thing with MM, when I did my quadrant, I actually called them up telling them that UPR's directions SUCKED and they helped me out over the phone even though I didn't buy from them. UPR....well they were as helpful as their single sheet with no pics for directions...MM had a 3 or 4 pg set of directions with pics to install it that I used.
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Thank you very much for the detailed description and suggestions. I don't have plans for FI at this point but it's always an option. Right now the car just has the very basic bolt ons (x-pipe, catback, mgw, lowered, wheels/tires)I plan to have 4.10s installed and get a dyno tune shortly after picking it up this weekend. I don't plan for much more than that at this point. When it comes to bolt on HP, LTs were something I was back and forth about getting. I won't be taking the car to the strip nor will I be racing it on the street. I just like to have well put together rides. It sounds like my money can be invested elsewhere such as the suspension and net me equal to greater results and possibly save me some time and frustration over installing LTs.
Hey guys, did either of you that used the UPR k member keep the factory control arms and springs? Also, where do you support a 4 valve from the top? I am not sure where to hook the picker to. I am pulling my tranny soon and putting a k member in since I have a factory k and long tubes lol.
my longtubes will be here shortly and wondering if my install will be easier than others, cause i had to change my head gasket, so my motor is sitting on the UPR K-member unbolted without the trans and stock mainfolds removed. Should i be able to install the headers without lifting the motor? or will i have to lift it out alittle bit to install them, and with the longtubes on, will the motor have enough clearance to drop back in. thanks.
Another thing too is I hear you have to remove at least 1 header to do any clutch/trans work right?
That has always pushed me away from getting them. Since the clutch is a wear item like brakes, you turn a simple clutch swap into more $$ having to remove a header.
But I would put the money into suspension and tune or tuner.
That has always pushed me away from getting them. Since the clutch is a wear item like brakes, you turn a simple clutch swap into more $$ having to remove a header.
But I would put the money into suspension and tune or tuner.
Depends on the header brand your buy, but yes its not a easy task using floor jacks and jack stands. It can be done with all the right tools at home.
I will pay the money and have someone do it for me, less stress , less time wasted.
you will deffinatly have to lift it our OF drop the k member to the floor with the engine and bolt them up. More work this way but easy to do! just takes a little longer. (but no knuckle busting here)
NO i didn't keep the factory control arms. I changed everything, K member, coil overs, A arms, bump steer, caster/camber, motor mounts, Long Tubes
Hey man just curious do you have factory control arms with coil springs on your upr k member?
no, i have the tubular A-arms from UPR.
Dang, I found a good deal on a upr k and I am trying to find out if anyone has used factory control arms with it but I guess not, I am not looking to go with coil overs.
why not on the coil overs?
Well I am on a budget and I have ridden in cars with a arms and coil overs and its pretty rough I really dont want the ride of the coil overs.
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