HELP PLEASE! Electrical or Pats issue?

SVTDSM

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I have a 03 Cobra roller that I'm rebuilding. I purchased the car minus the engine, tranny, fuel tank, and cluster. I later purchased the cluster from the same person I got the car from, wich is supposed to be the original cluster. Let me also say the car has a battery relocation that was disconnected from the fuse box under the hood. All I did was reconnect it and add a battery. When turning the key to the on position the odometer just has dash marks and there was a noise coming from the constant control rely. Also I noticed that when removing the key completely the cluster still has the dash marks lit up along with the abs light, but very dim. The traction control light on the button also stays lit with no key.:shrug: I really need to figure this out as soon as possible, cause I need to have the vin verified so I can transfer the title. They won't do it without being able to read the mileage. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
 

racebronco2

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Any time you have the dash marks on the odometer the ecu is not communicating with the vehicle. Since you have some of the lights on when removing the key i would say you have a short somewhere.
 

SVTDSM

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It has to be a short. I've been at this all day, now that its dark I can see the entire cluster is lit up very dim as soon as I hook the negative terminal up. Are the any helpful threads on finding shorts? Thanks for the response. Can't wait to start building that teksid you sent me.
 

paulsauto

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Something is not grounded good that's why lites are real dim looking for a path to ground. Check your connections grounds and powers should have a pretty heavy wire powering the underhood fuse block on the side.
 

SVTDSM

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Lights are dim when the key is off, but when turned on everything lights up nice and bright. The chassis ground looks like a 4 gauge as well as the power supply. Both are nice and tight.
 

DOHCTER

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Start with the ignition switch. You have something back feeding. Or the ccrm is still sending power out. Check the grounds that are on the pass side of the core support above the pass headlight. I just rewired my car to the 03 harness so it's all pretty fresh in my head. What part number ccrm do you have?
 

SVTDSM

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Part # 1r3f-12b581-aa then under that it says service p/n 1r3f-12b577-aa. Ground above headlight looks good. I talked to the previous owner and he promises the car was perfect running before he pulled the engine, trans, tank, and cluster. Oh yeah, and now it's a constant buzzing noise coming from the ccrm.
 

SVTDSM

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I checked the ground by the PCM, it is good, and the PCM harness nice and tight. I really appreciate all the help. Keep the suggestions coming.
 

hotcobra03

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I checked the ground by the PCM, it is good, and the PCM harness nice and tight. I really appreciate all the help. Keep the suggestions coming.


if you havent download the manual..go thru wiring diagrams..

follow the power from battery to cluster...and ground from cluster to frame..

you can unplug connectors to shorten the line to pinpoint issue..

. it will be time to break out a multimeter and get some readings..

you can practice on a piece of wire..say foot long..test it,,than smash it with hammer and test again and see how numbers/readings change..

or cut part of wire...

this will help for you to very easy probe the circuit and find issues..

google wiring 101...it tells all this...also see how to test 4.6/5.4 engine sensors..

just keep reading:read:
 

SVTDSM

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Okay, after messing with the multimeter all morning, I found 4 cut or broken wires behind the fender not to far from the ccrm. I believe 2 are for the passenger fog light, and 2 are for the heat exchanger pump. One of these wires (all black) is a ground that runs through the ccrm. So I grounded it direct to chassis with a alligator clip, and no more lights on cluster without the key on. As soon as I turn the key on the there is still a constant buzzing coming from the ccrm, and still no odometer reading. I tried to plug in my tuner and it doesn't even power up. Could those cut wires have Arced together and fried the PCM or the ccrm?
 

DOHCTER

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Now you made me think Ha. Is there battery cables still? What I'm thinking is your missing the grounds at this plug because the cables are with the motor. Look for this and ground both wires. They are both black. One with a yellow strip and one with white stripe. It's below the underhood fuse box
ne8ede2y.jpg
 

SVTDSM

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Now you made me think Ha. Is there battery cables still? What I'm thinking is your missing the grounds at this plug because the cables are with the motor. Look for this and ground both wires. They are both black. One with a yellow strip and one with white stripe. It's below the underhood fuse box
ne8ede2y.jpg

And we have a winner! I knew the SVT Performance Community would come through!:banana:
I looked at that clip 100 times. What I don't understand Is, I Have my cousins 2000 GT in the driveway Which also has no Engine, transmission, and a battery relocation kit. On his car that plug is also not connected to ground. His car does not have any of the problems that my car was showing. However, his odometer does read error, but I just figured that was because someone had swapped his cluster for the Mach one cluster. I really Appreciate you taking the Time to help:beer:
 

hotcobra03

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very nice...i have to remember this plug..its not in that link..


was yours just unplugged or did you add /splice something?
 

SVTDSM

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There is Nothing to plug it into. I guess it was removed when the Previous owner Pulled the engine, or when relocating the battery to the trunk. I haven't done anything permanent yet just alligator clips to a ground. Thanks again for everyone's help.
 

DOHCTER

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The other end of the plug is part of the battery harness. Just ground them out with a jumper wire till you get it put back together.

With the relocation I would cut the plug off and ground them to the strut tower/ inner fender. Then have a big ground running from the block to the body after you get it back together
 
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SVTDSM

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Yeah, I just used a jumper wire with a alligator clip for now. I'll do something permanent when I get the motor back in.
Thanks again.
 

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