Help me build my cobra

[Majin_might]

Hey everyone, I recently purchased a 98 sn95 cobra with 50k original miles and it's bone stock. I'm wanting to get out around 450-500 HP out of this build and still be able to use it as close to a daily driver in the spring-summer- fall seasons. My knowledge of building motors and such is not the highest, but I'm not stupid when it comes to understanding most of the terms and such.

All in all I have set aside around 8k to build this vehicle from motor, exhaust, rear end and fuel system.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

My plan was to go to a local trusted performance shop and discuss the build with them but I want an idea of what's possible / realistic before going in to prevent any " taken advantage of"

Thank you!

 

[98 svt]

Slap a Vortech on it and enjoy it. 500hp is not safe on a 96-98 bottom end.

 

[Majin_might]

Slap a Vortech on it and enjoy it. 500hp is not safe on a 96-98 bottom end.

So if I purchased this vortech kit, it has everything I would need to slap it on and drive it consistently with next to no worries about the stock bottom end going boom. It says expect 484Hp and around 423 ft/lbs torque. Would you recommend any other upgrades? I already have ordered a new short throw shifter, sub frame connector, long tube headers with a H pipe exhaust system and a CAI.

 

[LS WUT]

Yeah man, you should be good. Around 450 or so some stuff might start to let loose. I’d say stay in the conservative range of 450 or so. If it’s a drag car or something I would recommend save up and build the motor. I’d say around 8 pounds should be good for a fun rip around weekend cruiser

 

[LS WUT]

Maybe even look into a synchro kit for the transmission. Those tend to give issues depending on the abuse, and such.

 

[robvas]

I would go with a front mount intercooler, injectors, pump, blow through MAF and aftermarket tune instead of the Vortech FMU

Get the tuner kit if you can

 

[Majin_might]

I would go with a front mount intercooler, injectors, pump, blow through MAF and aftermarket tune instead of the Vortech FMU

Get the tuner kit if you can

I'm sorry but could you simplify this for me lol.

So you are saying to not go with tye vortech and go with another forced induction route? Like I said I know enough to follow along but I'm losing ya somewhere hahaha

 

[Majin_might]

Maybe even look into a synchro kit for the transmission. Those tend to give issues depending on the abuse, and such.

Honestly 450 HP is more than enough for me. The highest HP vehicle I've had / driven was my buddies turbocharged mustang with 600+ and it was too much for me lol. So if I can be in that lower 400 range and be safe on that bottom end, that sounds great to me. I'll also look into that synchro kit. This will be a cruise around the city and have a few fun pulls from Time to time l.

 

[robvas]

I'm sorry but could you simplify this for me lol.

So you are saying to not go with tye vortech and go with another forced induction route? Like I said I know enough to follow along but I'm losing ya somewhere hahaha

Get the Vortech tuner kit but add a front mount air to air intercooler, typically those kits aren't intercooled

Also get a MAF and injectors and have it tuned vs using the Vortech FMU and chip. It will be more reliable, make more power and drive better.

Try to find a shop that will put it all together for you. Can be hard to find a shop that still works on them though

 

[01yellercobra]

I'm a Procharger guy. I like that they come with intercoolers in their kits. Plus no need to run oil lines. Though I think the Vortech has a self contained version too.

As mentioned get an aftermarket MAF and larger injectors. You'll need a fuel pump as well. If you have a decent set of skills you can do the install over a weekend or two. Oh, and look into a blow through MAF set up. Your tuner will thank you.

Cancel the CAI. You won't need it with the blower.

 

[Majin_might]

This is awesome that you all have taken the time out of your day to help! I'm excited for the build.

I'll go ahead and cancel that Cai &

I'm a Procharger guy. I like that they come with intercoolers in their kits. Plus no need to run oil lines. Though I think the Vortech has a self contained version too.

As mentioned get an aftermarket MAF and larger injectors. You'll need a fuel pump as well. If you have a decent set of skills you can do the install over a weekend or two. Oh, and look into a blow through MAF set up. Your tuner will thank you.

Cancel the CAI. You won't need it with the blower.

Purchase those other parts. .

 

[beefcake]

vortech will be the best buy hands down

we have great discounts for the guys in the group as well, feel free to dm me,

we have procharger as well

 

[Roots-type]

Ok, I'll be the odd man out here...Could I suggest enjoying and familiarizing yourself with the car for a while before putting it on the edge with boost? I say this because A) they can be plenty of fun and reliable with simple bolt on parts B) you seem very new to all this, and C) 8k is not much of a budget AND safety net if things should go sideways. New-used cars often need some TLC in areas too. Something also to consider. Just my opinion, not meaning to be a downer. A low mile, stock sn95 Cobra is a sweet car that many people would love to have. Think hard, and then think hard some more before doing irrevocable mods. There, I'll stop lecturing. Lol. Post some pics if you get a chance!

 

[Majin_might]

Ok, I'll be the odd man out here...Could I suggest enjoying and familiarizing yourself with the car for a while before putting it on the edge with boost? I say this because A) they can be plenty of fun and reliable with simple bolt on parts B) you seem very new to all this, and C) 8k is not much of a budget AND safety net if things should go sideways. New-used cars often need some TLC in areas too. Something also to consider. Just my opinion, not meaning to be a downer. A low mile, stock sn95 Cobra is a sweet car that many people would love to have. Think hard, and then think hard some more before doing irrevocable mods. There, I'll stop lecturing. Lol. Post some pics if you get a chance!

I appreciate you being the odd man out. It helps put things in perspective. I've had the car for about 3 months now and have been driving it as a daily and its been doing great. I'm having no issues with it.

As far as bolt ons go. Everything that I've read it seems like people are putting several thousands of dollars into a fully bolt on motor and not making a big difference in power. If I'm going to put thousands of dollars I want it to have more power. The 8k is just what I preemptively set aside. If it takes more then that's OK, fortunately I'm in a position to do so. But I don't want to get too out of hand with it because I don't need 600+ HP. Mid 400's is plenty for me.

 

[Mark99GT]

Ok, I'll be the odd man out here...Could I suggest enjoying and familiarizing yourself with the car for a while before putting it on the edge with boost? I say this because A) they can be plenty of fun and reliable with simple bolt on parts B) you seem very new to all this, and C) 8k is not much of a budget AND safety net if things should go sideways. New-used cars often need some TLC in areas too. Something also to consider. Just my opinion, not meaning to be a downer. A low mile, stock sn95 Cobra is a sweet car that many people would love to have. Think hard, and then think hard some more before doing irrevocable mods. There, I'll stop lecturing. Lol. Post some pics if you get a chance!

I second this. What about suspension and handling mods? It's a night and day difference with good shocks, struts, lowering springs vs stock. The parts don't cost a fortune and you can install yourself. Especially if it's going to be a street duty summer car that gets driven. 4.30 gears and handling mods have far exceeded expectations for me.

Congrats on the car, too! Any pics to post?

 

[Roots-type]

You'll want at least 4.10s for n/a or boost on your car. The 96-98 NEED them.That would be a foundational mod to do before anything else imo. The car just won't get up without them.

 

[ZD302GT]

My vote is subframe connectors absolutely first then suspension and gearing. That is where these cars lack the most when stock. Then once the chassis is on a higher level you can bring up the power and the car will be most enjoyable.

 

[Deceptive]

Even a “cheap” engine build will wipe out a lot of an $8k budget.

Let’s say you go budget.
Reuse stock crank, Gen 2+ Coyote rods, decent pistons, refresh heads.

Rods will be $325, pistons and rings around $1k, refresh heads, assembly, new Ford timing kit you are probably $4-5k.

Piece together or buy a used Vortech/Procharger. I have a used P1SC-1H and a 96-99 Cobra Bracket for sale.

A used kit is always a gamble. Being honest. A new blower can shit the bed on first startup. Shit happens.

If I had a 100% bone stock I would have an odd approach.

I’d start by having the car completely gone through by a trustworthy and competent shop.
Ensure no issues are hidden.

Then I’d address one part of the car at a time.


Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com

 

[robvas]

If I had a bone stock car, I'd sell it and buy a built one. Spend an extra $5k instead of $15k. Let some other sucker pay for all those parts!

 

[robvas]

I added up all the stuff I could think of from my old car...no labor etc of course


shortblock 5000
Comp cams 1535
gi joe 8 rib 849
thump tensioner 499
msd wires 99
Flaming coils 99
Livernois heads 2999
novi2k 3000
Andersen power pipe 250
sct ba 2600 250
ais stage 2 trunk mount meth 400
t56 3000
shifter 200
driveshaft 200
Billet alum flywheel 350
Spec clutch 900
60lb inj 350
Glenn's fuel system 1200
KB BAS 200
bbk headers 599
bbk catted x pipe 500
flowmaster 500
Fms b springs 250
mm 6pt rollbar 900
Subframes 199
cc plates 99
torque box 99
strage susp 500
wideband kit 200
boost gauge 100
speedcal 50
wheels+tires 2000
diff cover 200
IW balancer 400
mcleod scatter 800
axles 500
Ford racing diff 300