Help: Diagnosing Problem with Bullseye Retrofit Headlights

[Huachipato]

2 leads in - 2 leads out - I'd say this driver is not designed to switch off when headlights are on.

If the instructions don't show how to wire in a way to switch off the LED - then the next best bet is probably to reach back out to TRS in case the ability to do so is there but hidden in the box.

Are you able to test it - if nothing else just to verify if the LEDs you have in the headlight are still good?

 

[Max97COBRAtkd]

2 leads in - 2 leads out - I'd say this driver is not designed to switch off when headlights are on.

If the instructions don't show how to wire in a way to switch off the LED - then the next best bet is probably to reach back out to TRS in case the ability to do so is there but hidden in the box.

Are you able to test it - if nothing else just to verify if the LEDs you have in the headlight are still good?

So I talked with The Retrofit Source yesterday and they said I cannot wire in an interrupter wire with these demon eyes. However, it should NOT cause any issues and will be negligible on the life of the LED's so I'm going to put these in, cross my fingers and post back up when get it done with the outcome.

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[Max97COBRAtkd]

Well, here's the update...

The passenger side went well and now with the new driver, works great. However, the driver's side (which had ZERO issue before I did what Bullseye Retrofits told me to do and switch the driver's to test) now has a blown LED. It does not light up with the new driver. I tested it with the new demon eye LED and it powers it just fine.

So now I'm stuck with having to try to disassemble and replace the demon eye LED in the driver's side housing. I will never recommend or personally purchase anything from Bullseye Retrofits.

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[Huachipato]

Did you test the driver's side by swapping the positive and negative? An LED will flow current only one way - so you can't hurt it if you reverse the voltage on it. If it is good but with the leads reversed, then it will light up, but if it is really bad - it will still not work.

It's not fun needing to re-open a headlight a second time. I tend to use 3M Window Weld to supplement the existing sealant. Just a small bead of it starting at the bottom of the lens and working your completely around the headlight normally does the trick for me.

 

[Max97COBRAtkd]

Did you test the driver's side by swapping the positive and negative? An LED will flow current only one way - so you can't hurt it if you reverse the voltage on it. If it is good but with the leads reversed, then it will light up, but if it is really bad - it will still not work.

It's not fun needing to re-open a headlight a second time. I tend to use 3M Window Weld to supplement the existing sealant. Just a small bead of it starting at the bottom of the lens and working your completely around the headlight normally does the trick for me.

Thank you, I did not think about doing that. I just tried it and it unfortunately did not work. I don't know if I trust myself with opening and re-sealing it. I may see if there's someone local that would do it. If I decide to tackle it, I'll order the necessary items, tools, sealer from The Retrofit Source as they were really helpful. I believe that window weld is at auto stores right?

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[Huachipato]

Sucks that the LED is burnt out...

I normally get the Window Weld from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Butyl-Window-Ribbon-Sealer-adhesive/dp/B073SFP21D

You can't go wrong with any sealant that TRS is recommending. They are a great help and know their stuff.

 

[Max97COBRAtkd]

Well, it was not fun opening up the headlight but I got it all set I believe. I think the new one is a tad brighter but I'm going to roll with it. Big thanks to The Retrofit Source and everyone in this thread!

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