Help: Diagnosing Problem with Bullseye Retrofit Headlights

[Max97COBRAtkd]

So, problem started with my demon eye on the passenger side not working. It would turn on, then off after about 5-15 seconds. Then intermittently back on and off. Driver's side was always solid on and good. This is the single color one that lights up blue. This is what it would do...


So, I thought I narrowed it down to the driver (pictured below) was bad on the passenger side.

I had been trying to work with Bullseye via Facebook messenger and they told me to switch the driver's side driver with the passenger side one. I did and when I turned the power on to them (with the original passenger side driver powering the driver's side demon eye) it lit up for about 3 seconds then turned off. Problem is, when I hooked the driver's side back up the way it was before, now it doesn't work at all.

Any ideas on this SVTP? Bad driver? Hopefully didn't kill the driver's side demon eye LED, I would NOT be happy if I had to dismantle it when it was working fine before. Also, where would I find a driver like this? I have searched and haven't been able to find one as of yet.

Here is basically how it is wired...

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[Huachipato]

If I'm reading that schema correctly - when the WH cable is hot it turns the Demon Eye off. I got to imagine it is a long shot - but is there a voltage present there?

It looks like it turns on with the park lights.

Just out of curiosity - what voltage do your demon eyes run on? 14V (car battery voltage) or does the board drop it down to something lower?

 

[Max97COBRAtkd]

If I'm reading that schema correctly - when the WH cable is hot it turns the Demon Eye off. I got to imagine it is a long shot - but is there a voltage present there?

It looks like it turns on with the park lights.

Just out of curiosity - what voltage do your demon eyes run on? 14V (car battery voltage) or does the board drop it down to something lower?

First, thank you for the reply. When the demon eye is on, I see no voltage (sometimes 0.01) at the white wire and at the red wire coming into the demon eye after the driver, I see about 3.6 volts so it does drop it. When the demon eye shuts off, the red wire at the demon eye measures 11.6-11.7 volts (car off). So I believe the driver to be faulty... I just hope what Bullseye had me do with switching them didn't ruin the driver's side LED... Opening it up and replacing would suck on such an already expensive pair of headlights.

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[Max97COBRAtkd]

Ok, so The Retrofit Source listened and took a look via this thread and pics and agreed with me that they think the driver's went bad. I ordered new demon eyes, like $30 shipped, from them so I'm going to replace the drivers first and hope the LEDs did not get messed up within the housing. Communication has been awful with Bullseye Retrofits and am very disappointed in their responses. First started asking for help from them on November 18th with this issue, been like pulling teeth trying to get their help. So if I do need anything new retrofit-wise, I will be going to The Retrofit Source as they took care of me in one day.

I will update with the outcome!

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[Huachipato]

Forgot to send the below message earlier. Sounds like TRS is assisting you. Thought I'd go ahead and share the below information anyways:

It sounds like Bullseye asked you to swap the drivers from side to side. Easy to see if the issue follows the driver swap or if it stays with the headlight. I don't think you shared it here yet - but what was the result when you swapped the drivers from one side to another?

Here is what I can deduce from what you have shared. It sounds like the resistor pack (Diode current limiter) is in the driver. That would be why the voltage out to the LEDs is 3.6V. That was key to know - don't just put 3.6V (or any voltage really) directly onto the LED leads unless you have a resistor in line to limit the amount of current you are feeding the LEDs - it will burn the LEDs out quickly otherwise.

The other suggestion I can provide - something I tend to do with my builds - is adding a easy connection into the set up. I normally use the old barrel connectors like these:
https://www.amazon.com/inShareplus-Barrel-Connector-Pigtail-Security/dp/B01IBFNH8C
It's a little more work upfront -but It makes swapping different parts in and out very easy instead of a chore. This could be added between the parking lights and the drivers - and probably again between the driver and the LEDs. Just makes it a little easier to work with.

 

[01yellercobra]

I just heard about Bullseye because of a show I was watching last week. Not that I was looking for any kind of retrofits, but its disappointing to hear about customer service like that when they're probably about to be really popular.

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[hotcobra03]

is there more to this..

after looking at wiring for head lamps and parking light.

low beam is powered separately from parking..

then I guess there isn' a high beam?

 

[Max97COBRAtkd]

Forgot to send the below message earlier. Sounds like TRS is assisting you. Thought I'd go ahead and share the below information anyways:

It sounds like Bullseye asked you to swap the drivers from side to side. Easy to see if the issue follows the driver swap or if it stays with the headlight. I don't think you shared it here yet - but what was the result when you swapped the drivers from one side to another?

Here is what I can deduce from what you have shared. It sounds like the resistor pack (Diode current limiter) is in the driver. That would be why the voltage out to the LEDs is 3.6V. That was key to know - don't just put 3.6V (or any voltage really) directly onto the LED leads unless you have a resistor in line to limit the amount of current you are feeding the LEDs - it will burn the LEDs out quickly otherwise.

The other suggestion I can provide - something I tend to do with my builds - is adding a easy connection into the set up. I normally use the old barrel connectors like these:
https://www.amazon.com/inShareplus-Barrel-Connector-Pigtail-Security/dp/B01IBFNH8C
It's a little more work upfront -but It makes swapping different parts in and out very easy instead of a chore. This could be added between the parking lights and the drivers - and probably again between the driver and the LEDs. Just makes it a little easier to work with.

Yes, that is correct, the driver reduced voltage output to the demon eye LED to around 3.6 volts when it works correctly. The driver, however was letting 11.6-11.7 volts (fog light/driving light on, car off) through to the LED causing it to go out. What I fear is when I tried to switch them to the other side and powered it (using passenger faulty driver to power good driver's side demon eye) the surge of 11.6 volts instead of 3.6 volts burned out the LED because now, even using the driver's side as it was, the demon eye that was 100% working, is now not working at all and I'm seeing 11.6 volts at it full time. This would cause me to have to open the case to replace the LED for the demon... Which I obviously don't want to have to do.

I totally agree on the connectors for quick switch out though. All these connections are sautered together from whoever the previous owner had install them. I would have used connectors personally too.

I just heard about Bullseye because of a show I was watching last week. Not that I was looking for any kind of retrofits, but its disappointing to hear about customer service like that when they're probably about to be really popular.

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Yea, I tried to be patient with them... I really did. But the short responses, unanswered phone calls, and only responding on FB messenger felt unprofessional and like they were treating me like an idiot.

is there more to this..

after looking at wiring for head lamps and parking light.

low beam is powered separately from parking..

then I guess there isn' a high beam?

The white wire going into the driver acts as an interrupter so when you turn the headlights on all the way, the demon eyes turn off. Yes, there are high beams as well.


I think that addresses everything and everyone's questions, if not, let me know.

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[Huachipato]

Not saying the LEDs are not burnt out, but just that as long as the resistors are still good and in series in the circuit, then once the LED is plugged in the voltage will drop due to the lack of current. LEDs brightness are based mainly by current - the voltage is part of the equation of course; but the LED will take it's cascade voltage (normally less than 3V) and let the rest of the voltage will drop across the resistors. The size of the resistors will determine the current (brightness).

I'm guessing you won't really know for sure till you get the new drivers though. Hopefully they are still all good.

 

[T3RM1N8R_18]

This sucks I was going to go with Bullseye Retros but now I'm not sure.

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[Max97COBRAtkd]

Not saying the LEDs are not burnt out, but just that as long as the resistors are still good and in series in the circuit, then once the LED is plugged in the voltage will drop due to the lack of current. LEDs brightness are based mainly by current - the voltage is part of the equation of course; but the LED will take it's cascade voltage (normally less than 3V) and let the rest of the voltage will drop across the resistors. The size of the resistors will determine the current (brightness).

I'm guessing you won't really know for sure till you get the new drivers though. Hopefully they are still all good.

Hoping all is good with them and switching the driver's fixes it. They are supposed to get here Monday.

This sucks I was going to go with Bullseye Retros but now I'm not sure.

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Sorry man, they do look good and put out good light. Just sucks about their service. Just looked at them and saw this too, don't think these bubbles are supposed to be there...

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[Huachipato]

Those bubbles are there due to the intense light the projectors put out. The higher the wattage, the faster it will start to bubble the soft plastic trim. It may appear to be just the paint, but it is actually the plastic deforming.

 

[rymax101]

Hoping all is good with them and switching the driver's fixes it. They are supposed to get here Monday.Sorry man, they do look good and put out good light. Just sucks about their service. Just looked at them and saw this too, don't think these bubbles are supposed to be there...
View attachment 1451551View attachment 1451552

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For the price of this service, all of this seems unacceptable. The fact that they didnt use a high temp or high quality paint is just huge red flags to me. Sorrry you found all the problems but I thank your for posting and saving me the pita.

 

[Max97COBRAtkd]

For the price of this service, all of this seems unacceptable. The fact that they didnt use a high temp or high quality paint is just huge red flags to me. Sorrry you found all the problems but I thank your for posting and saving me the pita.

I totally agree. I did not directly purchase them, the previous owner did. But that doesn't change the fact these are a $750 pair of headlights. There is a one year warranty that Bullseye provides, but I have no way really of knowing if I fall within that time frame. I know run time can't be that long since car is rarely driven.

I would think there would be better quality moldings to withstand the heat as well since they are supposed to be made for projector HID application. This is the first car I have had with these. They have been a PITA, but, the demon eyes do look good when lit, and the light output is sooooo much nicer and cleaner than the factory housing.

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[TouchedByAnUncl]

Oh man, story time! Bullseye sucks. This might be a little long, but it's worth the read. I ordered from them when they were just starting out in summer '16. I ordered a set of clear corner, smoked retrofits with the stock chrome backing. When they came to me, they were amber corners. That was strike one for me.
Strike two was when I went to mount the headlights, and they never actually locked into place. By lock into place, i don't mean with the clips up front. I meant the two posts that go into the fender. They seem to not reach. My old headlights, and my friends OEM headlights all lock in perfectly fine. I even took out the nose panel to see if something was off, but it wasn't.
Strike 3 happened when I tried to aim the lights. The passenger side aiming screw seemed to be stripped. It would go up to a certain height and then just stop. I can put the driver side almost twice as high as the passenger side. My car is always on 28 inch radials. It has a sharp raked stance. Matching the two up with the height the passenger side goes to is barely good enough.
Strike 4: the projectors themselves kinda sucked. I guess I went with the base package they sold, but the cutoffs sucked. The lights themselves look like they cut off in the shape of like a small smooth wave. I paid around $600 IIRC, and I got a crappy product in return.

After multiple phone calls, messages, instagram DMs, and videos back and forth of the problems, they said they would make me a new set and ship them out. He even told me I could keep the ones that were malfunctioning on there until I got the new ones. I thought "wow. thats awesome! great customer service!" since i had already ripped out the old HID system to install these. If I needed to take them out and ship them back, i wouldnt have been able to drive at night for a few weeks.

So I had asked about upgrading projectors to their best. They told me it would be $70 if I wanted them on the new set. I said yep, go for it. Well, it's been almost two years, and I never go tthe new set. How's that for customer service? I messaged him back a few months later, asking for an update, and never got one. He had asked me if I had an old housing set lying around I could use, but I didn't, and that was the end of that.

I still have their crappy headlights on the car. While they look nice on the front, the lighting totally sucks on some dark roads. I'll be shelling out more money in the spring for a better set from a totally different company. I'm not sure who to go with, so if anyone has suggestions, feel free to chime in. Also, I never did get a refund for the projectors I wanted upgraded either.

TL;DR Bullseye sucks. They charge you for broken lights, then take your money for upgrades you never get.

 

[MG2V]

I'm not sure who to go with, so if anyone has suggestions, feel free to chime in.

The Retrofit Factory (formerly Yukes retrofits) and Lightwerkz are both highly rated. Pricing is roughly $700 for a retrofit. DIY is always an option, as well. The labor isn't too bad, especially if you use aftermarket housings. I had around $400 in my retrofit not including the housings, but that was using the highest quality parts. It can be done for around $300 total.

 

[TouchedByAnUncl]

Awesome. I'm glad Yukes is still around. I was looking into him when I was looking to initially purchase a set but couldn't get in contact with him. Thanks for the info!

 

[Max97COBRAtkd]

Oh man, story time! Bullseye sucks. This might be a little long, but it's worth the read. I ordered from them when they were just starting out in summer '16. I ordered a set of clear corner, smoked retrofits with the stock chrome backing. When they came to me, they were amber corners. That was strike one for me.
Strike two was when I went to mount the headlights, and they never actually locked into place. By lock into place, i don't mean with the clips up front. I meant the two posts that go into the fender. They seem to not reach. My old headlights, and my friends OEM headlights all lock in perfectly fine. I even took out the nose panel to see if something was off, but it wasn't.
Strike 3 happened when I tried to aim the lights. The passenger side aiming screw seemed to be stripped. It would go up to a certain height and then just stop. I can put the driver side almost twice as high as the passenger side. My car is always on 28 inch radials. It has a sharp raked stance. Matching the two up with the height the passenger side goes to is barely good enough.
Strike 4: the projectors themselves kinda sucked. I guess I went with the base package they sold, but the cutoffs sucked. The lights themselves look like they cut off in the shape of like a small smooth wave. I paid around $600 IIRC, and I got a crappy product in return.

After multiple phone calls, messages, instagram DMs, and videos back and forth of the problems, they said they would make me a new set and ship them out. He even told me I could keep the ones that were malfunctioning on there until I got the new ones. I thought "wow. thats awesome! great customer service!" since i had already ripped out the old HID system to install these. If I needed to take them out and ship them back, i wouldnt have been able to drive at night for a few weeks.

So I had asked about upgrading projectors to their best. They told me it would be $70 if I wanted them on the new set. I said yep, go for it. Well, it's been almost two years, and I never go tthe new set. How's that for customer service? I messaged him back a few months later, asking for an update, and never got one. He had asked me if I had an old housing set lying around I could use, but I didn't, and that was the end of that.

I still have their crappy headlights on the car. While they look nice on the front, the lighting totally sucks on some dark roads. I'll be shelling out more money in the spring for a better set from a totally different company. I'm not sure who to go with, so if anyone has suggestions, feel free to chime in. Also, I never did get a refund for the projectors I wanted upgraded either.

TL;DR Bullseye sucks. They charge you for broken lights, then take your money for upgrades you never get.

This is really sad to hear. That is really bad. Really hoping this driver replacement fixes them. I gave up on communication with Bullseye. Might be too late to talk to your credit card company about starting a dispute, but that's what I would have done for both the "upgrade" fee and original purchase price when he didn't deliver on the new set. Really sucks to see businesses taking advantage of people like this.

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[Huachipato]

For the price of this service, all of this seems unacceptable. The fact that they didnt use a high temp or high quality paint is just huge red flags to me. Sorrry you found all the problems but I thank your for posting and saving me the pita.

First - I agree the service provided at this price point is unacceptable.

However - I'd like to point out - it's not the paint. It's the plastic. If you look at a stock headlight - this is bubbling in the black trim that is around the headlight. You would think that the paint would flake off if you ran your finger across it, but the reality is that it is a solid deformation of the plastic under the paint. The plastic can't take heat - the paint actually is fine. Most don't think of this issue and I actually haven't seen a solution to it.

I always thought the issue was with the high wattage bulbs, but the issue still shows up even when you just use the 35W bulbs. I do wonder if LEDs would still cause this issue since they produce light differently.

On the bright side (pun intended) it really doesn't affect the performance of the headlight in any way.

My thought is that there would need to be aluminum or copper layer on that trim to properly deal with the focused light. Also worth noting that the stock reflector itself can take the heat just fine.

 

[Max97COBRAtkd]

Ok, so this is what I got from The Retrofit Source. Now, how do I wire in the interrupter wire? What would I need? There is just a positive and negative that came with this one. Thanks guys!

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