Head Studs Without Removing The Head

[Batwood]

04 Cobra. 3.4 Whipple. 3.2 Upper, Stock Lower. E85, Headers, 4r70W, 8.8 with 3.55s.

Anyways... I dyno'd yesterday and this set up made 29psi. Which was much higher than I expected, based on some internet research. We left the car at 13* timing so it wouldn't explode until I get head studs. Completely stock motor.

Will I run into any issues by simply replacing the stock head bolts with ARP 2000 head studs? Removing them one at a time and installing the studs.
I haven't hurt the heads or blown the gasket yet. Its been ran on 25psi on a 2.3 whipple for 2 years. 9.99 in the 1/4.

I'm hoping to just remove the valve covers and replace the bolts with studs 1 by 1. I understand the torque procedure and sequence. Whats the general consensus on this? Removing the heads completely sounds like a huge pain, given the complexity of the 4v timing set up.
If I have to take the timing components apart, I'd be leaning towards cams and maybe some head work. I'd like to not spend the money right now. TIA.

 

[Aubz]

In for answers

 

[evolve]

Ive seen it done, not sure about potential long term issues. I am almost positive it can be done with minor potential consequences. The only issue I have personally seen was one of the bolts began backing out (mechanic didnt torque bolt to spec) and a small leak developed. All in all he had to remove the head to get it milled. IronTerp, SID, or one of the other super gurus would be the people to wait for.

 

[Wiseguy]

Issue is that there is not enough room to install A full length head stud in the car in certain areas. (SHOCK TOWER AREA) .I have done head studs with head removal in engine bay only.

 

[SlowSVT]

A 3.4 Whipple + E85 on the factory head bolts (must have forgot to update that one on the mod list, opps)

Tough call

your not "disturbing" the gasket which is in your favor and you can apply even more torque with the studs then you had it when compressed with the bolts which is also in your favor.

.......... the 25 psi is not in your favor even with a new gasket LOL

I'd be reluctant to do this. You might get away with it but it will always be in the back of your mind nagging you "am I going to blow a head gasket" every time you pin the boost gauge. Then again breaking down a perfectly running engine down to the short block just swapping over to studs is painful

Give Mihovetz a call, he could answer this question better then anyone.

Yea you'll need to raise the engine to get them in.

 

[gabe1530]

ive heard this can be done but if i was in your shoes, i would start building a spare longblock.

 

[BADASS03SVT]

hmmm....Id prob spend $150 on a larger pulley...??? even WITH studs your asking for it on 29psi.....

 

[R.D.P.]

You were spinning a 2.3 to 25 pounds? What upper\lower setup?

 

[Batwood]

My tuner thinks it could survive 30 psi tuned and with studs.
The 2.3 had a RR 3.2 upper and i think 4lb lower. 641 through the t56 2 years ago. Was a gen 2 blower worth headers. Average was 23 psi unless it was cold out. Have had zero issues with the motor so far. Was a 10k mile "junkyard" motor .

 

[BADASS03SVT]

ok...gl with that then.....and keep your pennies for another junkyard motor

 

[Batwood]

Thanks for the info SlowSVT. Hopefully I get time to pull the valve covers and see how much room there is.
i don't think i can afford to build a motor.

 

[Brutal Metal]

If it was me I wouldn't do it, I'd want to properly prep the threads on the block. I'm with Jake run a little bigger pulley.

 

[SlowSVT]

Thanks for the info SlowSVT. Hopefully I get time to pull the valve covers and see how much room there is.
i don't think i can afford to build a motor.

No need to build a new motor

You know who John Mihovetz is?

Here is his web site with contact info:

http://www.accufabracing.com/

 

[Shadow Grey 03]

I'm doing head studs now. Motor is out of the car to prep everything. More of pain, but I wanted to double check that I didn't hurt anything else when I lifted the head.

 

[LGHTEMUP]

you didn't need to take the motor out all you had to do is unbolt the motor mount and what ever side you do jack the other side up to clear the strut tower and would have not been an issue if you really didn't want to pull the motor..just an fyi

 

[Batwood]

You guys have inspired me to drop a pulley size!
I can leave the tune the same, still put in head studs, and be more safe. Maybe still run the smaller pulley for a track pass.
Thanks!

 

[Batwood]

Studs are in. With the 3.4 in the way you have to lift the blower up to get the passengers side valve cover out of the waY. Had to jack the motor up to clear a couple studs but the drivers side went perfect.

 

[ctgreddy]

Studs are in. With the 3.4 in the way you have to lift the blower up to get the drivers side valve cover out of the waY. Had to jack the motor up to clear a couple studs but the drivers side went perfect.

are you pulling one bolt out at a time or just removing the head and doing a new gasket plus studs?

 

[Batwood]

are you pulling one bolt out at a time or just removing the head and doing a new gasket plus studs?

I did one at a tIme.

 

[94slowbra1]

ive seen it done before. some work out great and others eventually have to pull heads and do it over. the way i look at it is if you know the gaskets and heads are fine it cant hurt anything. if it happens to fail and you blow a gasket the you need to pull the head anyway, like you would have done this first time. hope it all works out for you