Chris,
Hope this helps. If you need anything else, let me know.
View attachment 5.8 SuperCharger.pdf
Hope this helps. If you need anything else, let me know.
View attachment 5.8 SuperCharger.pdf
Having issues, help needed!
- Thread starter 02GTKB
- Start date
As long as you remove the actual PCV valve and vent the valve covers to atmosphere, the seals should be fine. The only downsides to not having a PCV is more frequent oil changes, with out the pcv the contaminants don't get sucked out of the crank case. Also there is some smell that you will get a whiff of from time to time, even tho I have my vent routed under the car I get a smell from time to time depending on which way the wind is blowing.
The good by far out weight the bad for me anyways. As soon as I deleted the pcv my idle was so smooth, the whole engine felt a lot smoother running.
might be a stupid ? but how do you know if your"knock sensor" is going off. what kind of noise is it or is it even a noise?
They are going off based on the data logs at wot between 3k-5k rpms..and no there is no noise which is a good thing, even more proof it is the oil causing my problems...poor fuel quality with higher timing and boost cause the knock sensors to go off
One other thing you can eliminate is the bubble hose between the lower intake plate and the supercharger inlet elbow. This hose is there to remove the oil and possibly water condensation that builds up that is on the lower intake plate in your pictures. The bubble hose is the 3/8" diameter vacuum hose from the lower intake plate to the SC inlet elbow. Remove the stock fittings and get some high quality aluminum pipe plugs. This mod with increase boost roughly 0.5 psi. How it does this is the fact that you no longer bleed off/bypass boost pressure back into the inlet side of the SC. Ford's idea about this hose is that as oil collects on the lower plate it uses boost pressure to force it back to the inlet of the SC to atomize it into the airflow as it churns back through the SC and intake manifold again. The amortization of the oil allows it to stay suspended in the air longer, so hopefully it makes it into the engine to be burnt.
Now for anybody else reading this and thinking this is a cheap way to increase boost...........IF YOU HAVEN'T REMOVED THE STOCK PVC SYSTEM...................THIS MODIFICATION IS NOT FOR YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Also anybody using a trunk mounted ice/water tank. You on extremely humid days can build water condensate on the intercooler. So you only turn your water pump for the trunk tank on just before the burn out and run down the drag strip. You don't want to drive the car from the pitstall to the staging lanes to the burnout box while pumping 35 *F water through the intercooler. Why, Because on a 90*F day with 70% relative humidity the intercooler will be soaked in condensation by the time you get to the burnout box. Turn the pump on as you approach the burnout box and any possible condensation will get suspended in the airflow and be burnt by the engine, instead of collecting on the lower intake plate to be ingested by the engine in one big gulp once you stick you're foot in the throttle to create high boost and airflow by the SC
Now for anybody else reading this and thinking this is a cheap way to increase boost...........IF YOU HAVEN'T REMOVED THE STOCK PVC SYSTEM...................THIS MODIFICATION IS NOT FOR YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Also anybody using a trunk mounted ice/water tank. You on extremely humid days can build water condensate on the intercooler. So you only turn your water pump for the trunk tank on just before the burn out and run down the drag strip. You don't want to drive the car from the pitstall to the staging lanes to the burnout box while pumping 35 *F water through the intercooler. Why, Because on a 90*F day with 70% relative humidity the intercooler will be soaked in condensation by the time you get to the burnout box. Turn the pump on as you approach the burnout box and any possible condensation will get suspended in the airflow and be burnt by the engine, instead of collecting on the lower intake plate to be ingested by the engine in one big gulp once you stick you're foot in the throttle to create high boost and airflow by the SC
Thanks for the tip BC! I was looking at that hose yesterday trying to figure out why they would want to run the crap at the bottom of the intake back to the inlet of the SC.. I do not run ice/water but I do live in the frozen north Minnesota, where we have crazy temp swings. Is there any chance I could build up enough water in the intake manifold where I might not want to do that mod or am I ok?
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So I want to bring this thread back up since I will be pulling the KB back off towards the end of Febuary and would like some more input on the issues I am having...I am almost 99.99% convinced the oil is the issue, but taking this all back off is not something I want to do...So anyone else possibly have more to add? Again the car responded well around 14* of timing but anything more and even where it should be 18* the sensors were going off, 93/c12 mix
I've got the same issue on my 2014. I installed my KB 2.8 LC about 2k miles on engine. I had a light film of oil in the intake elbow and on the intercooler. I just wiped it down and continued on with the 2.8 lc install. The oil film convinced me to install Bobs cans. To no avail the knock sensors were going off pulling 2 deg of timing at 3k to 5k. Lund Jr had me do several data logs and concluded that my car's timing needed to be retarded. We did that .... but if I get on it she still pulls timing. Frustrated to say the least...I was at a loss..... was ready to return the car to stock. I've been waiting for someone to chime in here with the reason/cause for this. I have a friend with a 2013 stock TVS that is pullied and tuned from VMP, I data logged his as well. Not quite as much knock about .5 to 1 on a hard hit. So it convinced me that there is a problem with stock and modified cars. I'll be looking at the peterson set up and PCV delete set up as well as pulling and cleaning my intercooler and associated parts, as well as a tune revision. According to Van for some reason the 2013/2014 Gt500's have excessive blow by. NOT GOOD.
Yes this issue is very frustrating to say the least, it was a lot of work to do what I have to now having to pull it all off..but I to have had some oil in the elbow area with my pullied setup..with vmp's tune I was pulling timing so this HAS to be an issue with that intercooler being contaminated...When I talked to KB he asked if the car on a cold start after sitting for a while maybe couple days, does it run rough? Well it sure did and he mentioned that is what will happen when oil gets into the intake...Hope I can fix this issue in the spring
I'm following along here as well in hopes that some of the info provided will be a solution for me also. I still run the stock supercharger (smaller pulley) but the tune pulls a lot of timing (knock) and usually has quite a bit of oil residue in the elbow. Lund also suspects oil blow and/or fuel quality to be my issue.
JLT oil separators (both sides) was my first mod. I've since switched to BOB's catch cans and still find quite a bit of oil in the inlet/elbow. In fact, the other day I wanted to swap over to my mono-blade throttle body. When I removed the dual 65mm TB there was enough oil pooled where the throttle body connects to the elbow that it started dripping out.
No doubt the intercooler on mine needs a good cleaning by now as well.
JLT oil separators (both sides) was my first mod. I've since switched to BOB's catch cans and still find quite a bit of oil in the inlet/elbow. In fact, the other day I wanted to swap over to my mono-blade throttle body. When I removed the dual 65mm TB there was enough oil pooled where the throttle body connects to the elbow that it started dripping out.
No doubt the intercooler on mine needs a good cleaning by now as well.
I'm following along here as well in hopes that some of the info provided will be a solution for me also. I still run the stock supercharger (smaller pulley) but the tune pulls a lot of timing (knock) and usually has quite a bit of oil residue in the elbow. Lund also suspects oil blow and/or fuel quality to be my issue.
JLT oil separators (both sides) was my first mod. I've since switched to BOB's catch cans and still find quite a bit of oil in the inlet/elbow. In fact, the other day I wanted to swap over to my mono-blade throttle body. When I removed the dual 65mm TB there was enough oil pooled where the throttle body connects to the elbow that it started dripping out.
No doubt the intercooler on mine needs a good cleaning by now as well.
That's not good. So two catch cans and a breather with cars and this is still happening?
Well one of my friends thought I was crazy for running double Bob's separators on the passenger side(shock mounted bobs runs into a firewall mounted one then into the intake) with a JLT on the drivers side(the clean air side isn't as important). I've taken off the VMP throttle body and BPS elbow a couple of times and this final setup is working and the logs back it up.
Wow yea when I did pull my TB off there was oil sitting, another month and I will be pulling this all apart again..Hope to have better results with the logs
Here is an update on this thread...I pulled the s/c back off end of March and found a couple things..1 was yes the intercooler had oil along with intake and inlet of s/c, cleaned with 4 cans of brake clean..2 found a bolt laying ontop the block beneath the intake from a previous install of mods back when..3 the steering shaft still had minor rubbing on the kooks headers...fixed all 3 issues and I am happy to say every log with Lund have been a success..I may have had very slight positive knock 2 out of the 8 pulls I have done..Love the power with the new pulley setup..dyno #'s upcoming
Awesome news man, great to hear. What fuel where you using for your last logs?
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Thanks! Before I had C12 which was 108-110 octane..So it was 1 of the 3 issues I mentioned that was causing the knock, or the combination of all 3
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