Grrr, running consistent 11.5's

[Elwood617]

Trouble is, I should be in the 11.3's. Trying to dial in the suspension by my self is a pain in the ass.
Cutting consistent 1.65 60', and I need to get that down to 1.5, everything feels great and is launching really will just not hard enough.
Next weekend I'm going up to Fayetteville so I can have a buddy of mine watch my launches and help me with dialing in my suspension.
I never thought I'd be frustrated with running consistent 11.5's...
That is the problem with going fast, you always want to go faster

 

[92fiveohfox]

Setup?

 

[sean04]

Throw up a slip

 

[burnin4]

I was stuck at 11.5's in 2 diff cars before, but not a bad place to be. Post up some more details of your setup and slips.

 

[pickles]

full mod list?

 

[Elwood617]

Setup?

Throw up a slip

I was stuck at 11.5's in 2 diff cars before, but not a bad place to be. Post up some more details of your setup and slips.

full mod list?

I haven't dyno'd the car in a long time, but I figure that I am getting just north of 430 to the wheel with my trap speed.

I am running 18psi right now, next outing I will try 16

Dampers are set at:
Front = 3 going to try 1 or 2 next time
Left rear 3c/5r
Right rear 4c/5r
thinking about going up 1c/r both sides next time out as well.

Here are three of my runs, one run was lost because the printer jammed. I'm 56, #7 is an LS2 Vette with intake, headers, tune, Z51 package LS2. His goal was to beat all the Mustangs at the track

Launch rpm (left to right) was 4500, 5000, 5200.
There was a more wheel spin each increase, but not excessive.

Mod List:
Engine: Steeda CAI, Boss IM, 170 degree thermostat, PCV's routed to exhaust, JBA LT headers, o/r x-pipe, glass-packs to dumps, all 3" pipe.
Most important engine mod, tune by my buddy at P51 performance.
Chassis/Suspension: CHE k-member brace, solid engine and transmission mounts, SS brake lines, GT 500 strut mounts, Boss tower brace, Stiffler’s DS loop, axle tube welded, upr axle tube braces, Ford racing rear girdle, BMR rear relocation brackets, J&M aluminum adjustable lower control arms, Fayys 2 Watts link, poly bushings on my sway bars, made adjustable drop links, Cobra Jet springs, Strange Adj struts up front, Viking double adj shocks in the rear, Aluminum DS.
Misc: Ceramic coating on IM, heat shield under IM, heat reflective tape around Maf housing, Light weight battery, MGW short throw shifter, clutch helper spring removed, raptor shift light, WOT box, removed all non-functional "scoops" that came with the car, as well as the rear "spoiler." Kirkey seat, Made vents for my front brakes, still a work in progress, and hood heat extraction vent. Aggressive weight loss, skinnies up front for racing, and 27x11.5 15 QTPs out back.
Current best 11.46@121ish with a 1.64 60’ before the change to QTPs and adjustable dampers. Now I am working on improving this 

Any input would be appreciated

 

[burnin4]

Looks like you are getting almost everything out of your setup unless you start doing weight removal and e85. What are your goals? You're a centri away fron mid 10's, or a 150 shot from low 10's.

 

[Elwood617]

Looks like you are getting almost everything out of your setup unless you start doing weight removal and e85. What are your goals? You're a centri away fron mid 10's, or a 150 shot from low 10's.

I want a 10.9 N/A, I'm working my way there. I'm just trying to get the most out of what I've got, and learn how to maximize my setup.

 

[twistedneck]

With the two step and all that weight reduction, good air you should easily get a 10 second slip... as it is 120 trap speed looks good so you are making good power to weight ratio.

Before adjusting the shocks any more try changing your anti squat so that it has just a small bit, and then move up from there to more and more anti squat by moving your rear lower control arm rear mounting point down to the lower holes on the brackets. I have the same brackets and similar ride height try the middle hole first then the end hole.. at that point it will try to stiffen up on launch but with the shocks you have its possible to damp that down if needed.

Also, the factory rear stabar is good for cornering its not robust enough to handle the drag launch. Since you are obviously optimized for 1/4mile put one of those BMR super rigid rear stabar kits.

 

[Elwood617]

With the two step and all that weight reduction, good air you should easily get a 10 second slip... as it is 120 trap speed looks good so you are making good power to weight ratio.

Before adjusting the shocks any more try changing your anti squat so that it has just a small bit, and then move up from there to more and more anti squat by moving your rear lower control arm rear mounting point down to the lower holes on the brackets. I have the same brackets and similar ride height try the middle hole first then the end hole.. at that point it will try to stiffen up on launch but with the shocks you have its possible to damp that down if needed.

Also, the factory rear stabar is good for cornering its not robust enough to handle the drag launch. Since you are obviously optimized for 1/4mile put one of those BMR super rigid rear stabar kits.

I have the Brembo package and the sway bars are stiffer that the base package. They aren't too bad, not ideal, but they will due for now.
I will be getting adjustable sway bars in the future, just trying to figure out which ones will suit my purposes the best.

I have the uca in the top hole and the LCA in the to hole as well. I tried the lower hole, and that was no good. It would just blow the tires off after I would get off the line. I had to run no compression and and 12 rebound to get any sort of reasonable launch.

I'll take your advice and try the middle hole next Friday. And I'll start with these damper settings.

Believe it or not, I'm building a street legal, general track beast. It's going back to the a road course next year, and I'm planning another trip to the Tail off the Dragon this October.
Here is my first run at the dragon, it was fun

First ever run on the Tail of the Dragon: http://youtu.be/2cik1hfGsYs

 

[dennisn]

Dude that interior all stripped just for weight reduction???

Hardcore!!!

 

[Elwood617]

Dude that interior all stripped just for weight reduction???

Hardcore!!!

Meh, I'm not into all the shit in cars today. My end goal for my car is a clean, simple, focused on going fast

 

[twistedneck]

Meh, I'm not into all the shit in cars today. My end goal for my car is a clean, simple, focused on going fast

Now that is a test of suspension, brakes, driveline, and most importantly driver!

Keep your rear stabilizer you have now, I had no idea you were still planning spirited cornering like this.

Hell, do what I did and put the boss rear 25mm bar on. It's got 80 duro rubber bushings from the factory! Don't run the 26mm rear unless you have a torsen diff. It will fry a regular diff in short order.

 

[Elwood617]

Now that is a test of suspension, brakes, driveline, and most importantly driver!

Keep your rear stabilizer you have now, I had no idea you were still planning spirited cornering like this.

Hell, do what I did and put the boss rear 25mm bar on. It's got 80 duro rubber bushings from the factory! Don't run the 26mm rear unless you have a torsen diff. It will fry a regular diff in short order.

I would love to run the Torsen diff, but my drag racing would kill it. I replaced all the drop link bushings with poly bushings, which helped. But, I really want to get adjustable so I can fine tune. My problem is the Fays 2 Watts link takes up allot of room back there.
I'll figure that our later

 

[sean04]

Meh, I'm not into all the shit in cars today. My end goal for my car is a clean, simple, focused on going fast

My man! I like your thinking . Just the bigs in littles with bias plys will drop well over 100 lbs from your car if your still on the stock wheels now. That will be huge for you. I'd start there and then start pulling out anything you can live without.

What are you shifting at? And as I'm sure you know it'd all about seat time. The more passes you make the more comfortable your going to get with the car. Keep at it, you will get there

Have any pics of that kirkey in the car? How do you like it?

 

[Elwood617]

My man! I like your thinking . Just the bigs in littles with bias plys will drop well over 100 lbs from your car if your still on the stock wheels now. That will be huge for you. I'd start there and then start pulling out anything you can live without.

What are you shifting at? And as I'm sure you know it'd all about seat time. The more passes you make the more comfortable your going to get with the car. Keep at it, you will get there

Have any pics of that kirkey in the car? How do you like it?

I'm running 27x11.5 15 Hoosier QTPs and skinnies up front. I'm getting used to the new setup, I've only got 10 ruins on these tires. But, getting really comfortable with them. I'm still skipping the clutch, and not using my 2-step, I need more seat time with this setup. But, my confidence is growing
I shift at 7300 rpm, I'm still a stock long block, so I don't want to push my luck too hard.

It's really not bad, I've done 7.5 hours in it. And my ass wasn't to sore. It's very supportive, and holds me in place really well.

 

[4VFTW]

"PCV's routed to exhaust, JBA LT headers, o/r x-pipe, glass-packs to dumps, all 3" pipe."

^^more info on this. interested to see how your making this work on a system with back pressure.

 

[sean04]

Lots of drag cars use the exhaust scavenging to pull pressure from the crankcase. From what I've seen they just run a hose to a one way check that is welded into the collectors on the merge. Not sure how the op is doing it

 

[4VFTW]

Lots of drag cars use the exhaust scavenging to pull pressure from the crankcase. From what I've seen they just run a hose to a one way check that is welded into the collectors on the merge. Not sure how the op is doing it

yes im aware of how most racers do it as I have done it myself in the past, but the way you are describing requires basically open headers only as any back pressure in the exhaust will prevent the valves from opening.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-25900/overview/

 

[Elwood617]

"PCV's routed to exhaust, JBA LT headers, o/r x-pipe, glass-packs to dumps, all 3" pipe."

^^more info on this. interested to see how your making this work on a system with back pressure.

Lots of drag cars use the exhaust scavenging to pull pressure from the crankcase. From what I've seen they just run a hose to a one way check that is welded into the collectors on the merge. Not sure how the op is doing it

^ What he said, I use venturis welded in at a 45° angle after the second O2 sensor.