Griggs GR-40

[Surubasi]

I have one question


is it worth the 10k they say it's worth? I'm seriously considering it and i'm wondering if a level 5 would provide the same benefit...I know this may have been discussed already, but my computer here won't go thru the search menu for some reason and I really need to know before i make the decision

I'd like to hear pro's and cons about it

I love the subframe connectors they offer, and the K member seems top notch...i'm just a littl sketchy about the solid rear end conversion


Dave

 

[ShelbyGuy]

i wouldnt waste my money unless i was going racing in the american iron series. griggs is really proud of his products, and he prices them accordingly.

does your car see any road course track time? have you seen much road course seat time? if not, then whats the point? the car stock is above level of 99% of its owners driving ability.

go for the subframe connectors; thats a bit of a no-brainer. every mustang needs a pair.

you think wheelhop is bad when you accelerate? try it under hard braking. torque arm cars tend to brake hop (ask any f-body road course nut)

race parts generally arent durable enough for street use. a couple of people who ran griggs cars ripped the stuff off because the control arms kept cracking and griggs wouldnt stand behind the product.


remember a more harsh ride quality does not equate to better handling. you wont tell the difference in handling on the street anyway. the limit simply cant safely be reached.



as always, i recommend learning to drive the car as-is first. there's always someone going quicker with fewer mods. you'll learn a lot more in a car that doesnt cover up mistakes.

 

[Surubasi]

well...i don't really know if i'm going to see track time or not...but i do feel that the car is quite piggish and could use a better suspension...

It's not a waste of money if I want it...but like you said..would i use it to its full potential and would it really benefit me that greatly on the street...(aka would it produce a car that is harder to handle rather than easier)

Dave

 

[racebronco2]

i would not spend that much money if i can't use it to it's full potential, but i would upgrade the front with lighter parts (k-member, coil over and a-arms) the rear with coil over. You could go to a solid rear and get it down a few hundred pounds. I was a little disappointed that it doesn't reduce the weight. On the plus side you can run 315's on the front with no clearance problems.

 

[Surubasi]

you mean on the rear?


Dave

 

[TroyV]

No.. he means on the front..

 

[ShelbyGuy]

2003 scca solo2 a/sp national champ was a vette with wider tires on the front than on the rear. looked weird.

 

[Surubasi]

wierd

So, If I do it...would i notice that much on the street, would I be looked at like a retard for getting it and not tracking it often...would it hurt my 1/4 mile times money isn't the issue it's quality...they seem like they are the best

Dave

 

[racebronco2]

wierd

So, If I do it...would i notice that much on the street, would I be looked at like a retard for getting it and not tracking it often...would it hurt my 1/4 mile times money isn't the issue it's quality...they seem like they are the best

Dave

More then likely you won't be able to tell on the street unless you run thru the canyons . I personally would just think to myself "why spend that much money on something you aren't going to use". It would not hurt your times unless you are planning on running the 315's in front. But if you want to improve your times do a k-member, a-arms, coil-over, solid rear etc.

 

[ShelbyGuy]

the only time a person looks like a retard in their full-boogie max-effort car is when its obvious to the general public that the guy behind the wheel cant drive

dont put yourself in that kind of situation and nobody will think you're a retard...

if anything, people will envy your disposable income

 

[Surubasi]

hahaha ^^

well it's not like I plan on acting like an ass when i get it, I do plan on taking it to summit point and having ride along instruction as to the safe and proper use of the car and it's new found ability to cut the proverbial rug.

the disposable income is my present to myself for working in Iraq (i wont be able to reap the fruits of my labour till i come back) but when i do get back i'll have a purring little beauty of a car that can take the twisties with the best of 'em

Dave

 

[TroyV]

I see you have a vert in your avatar... You will need to buy at least a bolt in roll bar to be allowed entry into track events.. You will want to check with the clubs you plan to run with.

 

[sonic cobra]

I had a bunch of MM stuff installed for about $5000 and the handling on the street and road course is all I could ever ask for and as mentioned above, more than I can really use at this point. I always considered Griggs more track oriented and MM more street oriented.

 

[STROKD]

Well I am a bit biased... My dad has a Griggs built GR40 90 vert, and it is a damn go cart... it handles better than mostly anything I have ever driven, except his C6 Z51, but for a Mustang it is flat out a blast to drive... even just driving around town, flinging it in and out of traffic is a blast, and the car will rail a 90 at about 60 mph if you clip the apex right... even the Z51 will slide (four wheel drift) a little at that upper limit... good luck to you, the Griggs suspension is top notch shit... worth the money imo... :rockon:

 

[sonic cobra]

Perhaps another way to look at this. Griggs has stated publicly that the Cobra IRS cannot be made to work- period. MM has designed an IRS grip box to make the IRS the best it can be. So If you intend to go to a solid rear, Griggs will set up a great suspension for you.On the other hand, if you intend to keep the IRS, MM has the stuff you need. Hope this helps.

 

[ShelbyGuy]

some might say he touts that line because his whole suspension setup revolves around the torque arm....

i'll put the blue #29 quasi-cobra up against whatever griggs has anytime. (easy to say since they're not my cars)

and im not sure which cars griggs is watching, as ive never seen an irs cobra lift the inside tire. and ive been to the track once or twice. you want to see a car lift the inside tire? vw. golfs/rabbits lift the inside rear so high it spins the other direction.

 

[TroyV]

some might say he touts that line because his whole suspension setup revolves around the torque arm....

i'll put the blue #29 quasi-cobra up against whatever griggs has anytime. (easy to say since they're not my cars)

and im not sure which cars griggs is watching, as ive never seen an irs cobra lift the inside tire. and ive been to the track once or twice. you want to see a car lift the inside tire? vw. golfs/rabbits lift the inside rear so high it spins the other direction.

I have lifted the inside tire at an autocross once. I have a picture of it somewhere... I think is was a fluke though.. If I find the shot I'll email it to you...

 

[ShelbyGuy]

now that i think about it, i wonder if thats not what im doing. my burnouts are two black stripes, so there's no one wheel peel yet. but i spin the inside tire on every corner now. i thought it was my burned out diff. perhaps its time for firmer springs. i know im riding on the bump stops.

 

[TPSMak]

If you want the best Mustang Suspension out there buy Griggs PERIOD. Their components are top notch and will make your car handle better than you could have dreamed of. Yes the products are expensive but the $10K you are talking about is a COMPLETE suspension including K-member, tubaler A-Arms, TA, PHB, subs, coil overs, etc... I have the GR-40 system in personal 88 Saleen and would not trade it for the world. MM makes a good system also but their system is quite a bit heavier.

If you decide to buy the Griggs system you will not be disappointed.

 

[03yllwguy]

I certainly am NO expert in this subject, but came back from a deployment myself and dumped a butt ton of money into a Griggs setup on my last 98 Cobra. The car certainly handled better than stock but I did not enjoy the price vs. quality lacking products I received. I was so dissatisfied that I left the parts on the car when I traded it in. I don't road race but wanted a better handling car. I had brackets break and bend, I had to custom fab my own struts and collars to get them to fit which in turn voided the Koni warranty, had more noises than I could imagine (a pro shop did the install). In turn, I'm happy with my lowering springs only on this car. To this day I am still disgusted with myself for spending the money that I did for what I got. If I had an urge to drastically change my setup, I would try the MM stuff, for the money and the reported quality of their products from members on the site.