Good old 2010 vs 11-12 vs 13-14 Shelby post

[svink32]

Hey guys, not new to the forum, but it's been a while. My last mustang owned was an awesome 98 cobra sold in 2008. Recently I've put my time and effort into a lifted 2014 JKU Wrangler, anvil color with 35's. Wife was hit at an intersection, guy ran a red light and totaled it a few weeks ago. Super bummed, but in the process of dealing with the insurance company to get my check I started thinking that this is the time for me to get back into my original dream car, a 2010-14 Shelby GT500, especially now that they are more affordable.

Anyways, very interested in input on this topic, especially in 2018. My budget is realistically mid to low 30's, I prefer a lower mileage (under 30k) near stock cars. From what I can see this puts me in a 2010-2012, although I'd be willing to budge a bit for a 13-14 if under 38k.

I'm more of a bolt on guy, minor mods, good sounding exhaust, nice tires, fun cruiser that can beat up on most cars from a stop. Probably will drive the car 5-7k miles per year and enjoy it. I'm not saying modding heavy isn't an option, just not something right away.

I've got my eye on a 2010, bone stock with 5k mikes original owner- I think I could get it for close to 30k. Seems like a great deal but I'm thinking it's a buyers market and I may be better off with a 2011-2012 for a few grand more.

Thoughts on this specific car and/or what I should be chasing after for the money?

 

[RedVenom48]

All great years. Bolt on route, its hard to argue against any of them. 13-14 IS more "complete" as you'll only need a CAI, pulley, plugs and a tune and youre easily 600+ at the wheel. Of course, initial price is much higher.

11-12 seems to be more of the sweet spot, assuming youre interested in a blower swap and adding a dual fan, triple pass heat exchanger. Factory knock sensor system. The rods are good, but good reliably up to about 700 hp. More than that and youll need new rods at the least. Im planning rods, cams and a timing upgrade in the future. Pistons (per a call to the OEM Mahle) for 11-12 were used on the Cobra Jet. Also, 11-12 transmissions can have a 1-2 upshift grind. Fluid and shifter upgrade help alleviate most of the issue as does a WOT Box. Tremec offers upgraded "hybrid" Synchro rings that eliminate the issue, but requires a transmission overhaul. 11-14 feature electric power steering.

11-14 feature Plasma Transfer wire arc spray on cylinder liners. Extremely robust, but extremely thin. If you have new pistons and rings that REQUIRE a new hone, youll need to sleeve the block.

2010 Is a hybrid. S197 Gen 2 body styling and interior. Features an iron block that is extremely robust, but 100 pounds heavier than 11-14. Easy to hone cylinders for new pistons and rings. I can tell you I noticed the difference road testing an iron block and aluminum block GT500. Early gen knock sensors, hydraulic power steering. Same exhaust system as 07-09 so exhaust can be a little tricky, but nothing to worry about. Absolutely need to upgrade the heat exchanger to reduce heat soak.

13-14 TVS, VMP Gen 2, 2R and Gen 3 are very popular blower upgrades. Lots of support for the GT500, even with the rise and prevalence of the Coyote powered GTs. Im sure guys will chime in, but you really cant go wrong with any year.

 

[Totalpkg]

2011-2012.

 

[1st usa car]

my deciding factor was money and I didnt want that extra weight in the front of the car. So, i got an 11 and cheaply modded it.

 

[VNMOUS1]

11-12.

I have modded, tuned and generally been all over hundreds of them.

Knowing what I know and doing what I do, if I replaced #Christine, I would buy a 12 Performance Pack. No question.

Bj

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[svink32]

All great years. Bolt on route, its hard to argue against any of them. 13-14 IS more "complete" as you'll only need a CAI, pulley, plugs and a tune and youre easily 600+ at the wheel. Of course, initial price is much higher.

11-12 seems to be more of the sweet spot, assuming youre interested in a blower swap and adding a dual fan, triple pass heat exchanger. Factory knock sensor system. The rods are good, but good reliably up to about 700 hp. More than that and youll need new rods at the least. Im planning rods, cams and a timing upgrade in the future. Pistons (per a call to the OEM Mahle) for 11-12 were used on the Cobra Jet. Also, 11-12 transmissions can have a 1-2 upshift grind. Fluid and shifter upgrade help alleviate most of the issue as does a WOT Box. Tremec offers upgraded "hybrid" Synchro rings that eliminate the issue, but requires a transmission overhaul. 11-14 feature electric power steering.

11-14 feature Plasma Transfer wire arc spray on cylinder liners. Extremely robust, but extremely thin. If you have new pistons and rings that REQUIRE a new hone, youll need to sleeve the block.

2010 Is a hybrid. S197 Gen 2 body styling and interior. Features an iron block that is extremely robust, but 100 pounds heavier than 11-14. Easy to hone cylinders for new pistons and rings. I can tell you I noticed the difference road testing an iron block and aluminum block GT500. Early gen knock sensors, hydraulic power steering. Same exhaust system as 07-09 so exhaust can be a little tricky, but nothing to worry about. Absolutely need to upgrade the heat exchanger to reduce heat soak.

13-14 TVS, VMP Gen 2, 2R and Gen 3 are very popular blower upgrades. Lots of support for the GT500, even with the rise and prevalence of the Coyote powered GTs. Im sure guys will chime in, but you really cant go wrong with any year.

Thank you so much for this insanely helpful post! It helped reassure some of the things I have been discovering myself in my research.

While my goal has been to own a Shelby, and buying a 2010 would fulfill that goal, seeing as I can afford an 11-12 that sounds like the better choice in the long run, a 13-14 is a possibility if I can run into a smoking deal.

Thanks again this was very useful!

 

[svink32]

2011-2012.

Awesome thanks man! Not to sound like a noob...Any idea how I can verify if an 11-12 has the PP/track package? Is it something I can find out by running a VIN somewhere?

 

[svink32]

Thank you so much for this insanely helpful post! It helped reassure some of the things I have been discovering myself in my research.

While my goal has been to own a Shelby, and buying a 2010 would fulfill that goal, seeing as I can afford an 11-12 that sounds like the better choice in the long run, a 13-14 is a possibility if I can run into a smoking deal.

Thanks again this was very useful!

Awesome thank you for your advice! I'll ask the same question to you as well...Not to sound like a noob...Any idea how I can verify if an 11-12 has the PP/track package? Is it something I can find out by running a VIN somewhere?

Thanks again!

 

[svink32]

Also what is your guys opinion on mileage and number of owners? I've seen some stock cars for sale with 80k+ miles, which is comforting although I have no doubt these cars can handle the mileage.

I'm thinking I want to be under 25k miles, preferably a 1-2 owner car.

Should I shy away from a 40-45k+ mile car, or one with 3+ owners?

For example there is a nice stock 2011 grabber blue in California with 19k miles on eBay right now, could probably get it around 30-31k if it doesn’t sell on eBay. Older gentlemen is the third owner, bought it about a year ago and has put less than 800 miles on it since.

I’m not necessarily buying it for resale value, however I really don’t want a high mileage vehicle or one that if/when I go to sell makes someone the 4th or 5th buyer.

 

[Handlebar Moustache]

Also what is your guys opinion on mileage and number of owners? I've seen some stock cars for sale with 80k+ miles, which is comforting although I have no doubt these cars can handle the mileage.

I'm thinking I want to be under 25k miles, preferably a 1-2 owner car.

Should I shy away from a 40-45k+ mile car, or one with 3+ owners?

For example there is a nice stock 2011 grabber blue in California with 19k miles on eBay right now, could probably get it around 30-31k if it doesn’t sell on eBay. Older gentlemen is the third owner, bought it about a year ago and has put less than 800 miles on it since.

I’m not necessarily buying it for resale value, however I really don’t want a high mileage vehicle or one that if/when I go to sell makes someone the 4th or 5th buyer.

I'd say owner history and documentation are at least as important as the mileage on the odo. If you find a seller on a forum like this, then you have a treasure trove of information to start with. You can run through all of their old posts and see what kind of issues they had, how hard they drove the car, etc.

Just my opinion here, but low mileage 11-12s with a good history are going to be tough to find with a budget in the low 30's. If you find one in that price range that's clean and straight, scoop it up. To me, that vintage GT500 is still in the mid to high 30's for low mile, relatively stock cars.

The modest price increase to the 13-14 models is worth saving for. I would keep saving and look for a 13-14. Just my .02.

 

[4rd Toys]

Awesome thank you for your advice! I'll ask the same question to you as well...Not to sound like a noob...Any idea how I can verify if an 11-12 has the PP/track package? Is it something I can find out by running a VIN somewhere?

Thanks again!

11/12's only had Performance Package

Typically here's three ways to easily verify visually if it's supposedly stock PP:

Multi-spoke 19's in front & 20's in the rear

[IF it has stripes] Much narrower "over-the-top" stripes & typically have a contrasting black or gold edging which depends on the color of the GT500

Look inside the wheel wells [Front/Rear] , you will see red shocks & red struts

.........................................................................................................................................................................................................

Also there's a basic "Gurney-Flap", the center section, on top of the rear spoiler is a plastic "lip" & is not smooth like the other GT500's [2010-2012]

 

[1 Alibi 2]

The farther you get from the original owner, the less you will know about the car.
There was no glass roof option till 2011.
There was no Recaro seat option till 2012.
If I was buying used, I would want a 1 owner car with complete documentation.
( even a higher mileage 1 owner car is a better bet than a low mileage 4 owner car )
May cost you more, but in the end you'll be happier with your purchase.
Good luck with your decision..

 

[4rd Toys]

Forgot to mention,

With the PP, your factory audio/sound options were only Navigation w/shaker sound and just the "basic" shaker sound.

You couldn't get the Shaker-1000 [factory subwoofer in the trunk] with the PP option: It was either one or the other not both.

Unless someone spent $$$ to buy the Shaker 1000 center dash headunit, the supplemental amp/sub wiring to run from the headunit section, and corresponding subwoofer enclosure....

I don't think anyone has ever posted something like this ever....going from the basic shaker & upgrading to the 1000

 

[1Kona_Venom]

Compression Check is a must, regardless of the mileage or the # of owners
Always have your financing and money ready though for a good deal. Cause sellers don't wanna wait.



Good Luck

 

[svink32]

I'd say owner history and documentation are at least as important as the mileage on the odo. If you find a seller on a forum like this, then you have a treasure trove of information to start with. You can run through all of their old posts and see what kind of issues they had, how hard they drove the car, etc.

Just my opinion here, but low mileage 11-12s with a good history are going to be tough to find with a budget in the low 30's. If you find one in that price range that's clean and straight, scoop it up. To me, that vintage GT500 is still in the mid to high 30's for low mile, relatively stock cars.

The modest price increase to the 13-14 models is worth saving for. I would keep saving and look for a 13-14. Just my .02.

You bring up a great point with the owner history and documentation, and thank you for your post! I would much rather have a well documented, original owner 35-40k mile car than a 15-20k mile car from a dealer with zero history and 2-3 owners.

Years ago I bought a 1998 Cobra from a guy who purchased it from the original owner, had the original window sticker and all documentation. I bought it in 2006-7 with 60k miles I believe? Thing was MINT.

 

[svink32]

Forgot to mention,

With the PP, your factory audio/sound options were only Navigation w/shaker sound and just the "basic" shaker sound.

You couldn't get the Shaker-1000 [factory subwoofer in the trunk] with the PP option: It was either one or the other not both.

Unless someone spent $$$ to buy the Shaker 1000 center dash headunit, the supplemental amp/sub wiring to run from the headunit section, and corresponding subwoofer enclosure....

I don't think anyone has ever posted something like this ever....going from the basic shaker & upgrading to the 1000

Curious- with these 6-7+ year old Navigation units...is there an upgrade you can download from the dealer or how do these stay current?

 

[svink32]

Compression Check is a must, regardless of the mileage or the # of owners
Always have your financing and money ready though for a good deal. Cause sellers don't wanna wait.



Good Luck

I'm not quite ready to pull the trigger, only because I am waiting on insurance who is dragging their feet to pay for my totaled wrangler. You bring up a great point though, while I am scouring the internet I am trying to be realistic that I really shouldn't start looking until I am ready to go. Thanks man!

 

[boduke0220]

I agree with most one else. a 2011-2012 PP car is the best Bang for the buck! Used 13/14 Blowers are getting cheap and its extremely easy to make 650 to the tires with minimal mods and money invested!

 

[GT Premi]

11-12.

I have modded, tuned and generally been all over hundreds of them.

Knowing what I know and doing what I do, if I replaced #Christine, I would buy a 12 Performance Pack. No question.

Bj

Hey! I just now noticed you have a gen 3 Whipple 2.9 on Christine now! What brought you to the dark side?? How do you like the gen 3, and how much power is she putting down now?

Curious- with these 6-7+ year old Navigation units...is there an upgrade you can download from the dealer or how do these stay current?

The company that provided the map software to Ford still makes and sells update discs for them. I just updated mine last year. A few months later, they sent me another notification for an even newer update. They're about $120 or $140 a pop, though.

 

[1Kona_Venom]

Curious- with these 6-7+ year old Navigation units...is there an upgrade you can download from the dealer or how do these stay current?

Some people may care, I don't. When traveling, I have my WAZE APP on. Most everyone that I know, uses their phone to navigate. If you wear polarized sun glasses, cant see the screen anyways.

If the car doesn't have it, play the system. Seem disappointed tell em you wanted one with Navigation in the car and offer $500.00 less. It works