You can'tThanks Bj I do plan on reaching out. Do know how to distinguish the counterfeit throttlebody's from the REAL ones?
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You can'tThanks Bj I do plan on reaching out. Do know how to distinguish the counterfeit throttlebody's from the REAL ones?
That sounds like progress. May I ask why you decided to go with a lower instead of an upper?...I decided just to do the 10% overdrive lower and not the 2.5 upper...
You sure can, though an upper would be a more cost effective way to make power, I believe making power by increasing the size of the lower is offers other advantages.That sounds like progress. May I ask why you decided to go with a lower instead of an upper?
You sure can, though an upper would be a more cost effective way to make power, I believe making power by increasing the size of the lower is offers other advantages.
1. It is an improved balancer over stock once you start increase power
2. It decreases the chance of breaking the oil pump gears, crank sprocket and other timing components do to an increase in torsional vibration.
3. Less prone to belt slippage on the upper pulley, I am on the look out for an adjustable aux pulley just to make sure though
4. I like the idea that when at first glance other than the normal CIA upgrade it will look stock.
I am sure these points are arguable, I guess it comes down to the piece of mind of trying to build horsepower as safe as I possibly can. Kind of like headers cost effective no. Safer for the engine yes
An oversized SFI aftermarket balancer should in theory dampen harmonics better over OEM but I did it for the improved belt wrap and SFI for racing.Can you elaborate how an aftermarket balancer (10%)... vs the factory size and option, decrease breaking stuff as outlined in your 2nd talking point?
I'm genuinely curious where you got this information and/or data?
2. It decreases the chance of breaking the oil pump gears, crank sprocket and other timing components do to an increase in torsional vibration.
Can you elaborate how an aftermarket balancer (10%)... vs the factory size and option, decrease breaking stuff as outlined in your 2nd talking point?
I'm genuinely curious where you got this information and/or data?
2. It decreases the chance of breaking the oil pump gears, crank sprocket and other timing components do to an increase in torsional vibration.
Thank you great idea.I also went with a lower over an upper when near stock.
I’d strongly recommend an upgraded tensioner as well as an upgraded ARP bolt or new stock (factory are single use) while you’re in there.
Good luck.
-J
You sure can, though an upper would be a more cost effective way to make power, I believe making power by increasing the size of the lower is offers other advantages.
1. It is an improved balancer over stock once you start increase power
2. It decreases the chance of breaking the oil pump gears, crank sprocket and other timing components do to an increase in torsional vibration.
3. Less prone to belt slippage on the upper pulley, I am on the look out for an adjustable aux pulley just to make sure though
4. I like the idea that when at first glance other than the normal CIA upgrade it will look stock.
I am sure these points are arguable, I guess it comes down to the piece of mind of trying to build horsepower as safe as I possibly can. Kind of like headers cost effective no. Safer for the engine yes
An oversized SFI aftermarket balancer should in theory dampen harmonics better over OEM but I did it for the improved belt wrap and SFI for racing.
-J
Sure I can, lets start with the crankshaft is not rotating at a constant speed, it is in fact twisting and whipping (accelerating and decelerating constantly) a multitude of reasons cause this but the big ones are the compression stroke and the power stroke as these are contradicting forces (acceleration and the resistance to accelerating). As this happens it causes one part of the crankshaft to accelerate and another part to decelerate now your left with the opposite effect the part of the crankshaft resisting acceleration through the compression stroke ends and now must snap forward getting ready to accelerate from the power stroke. On another cylinder the power stroke has occurred and must provide enough energy to push the piston down with enough force to accelerate the crankshaft and then slow down and these opposing forces cause torsional vibration.
This torsional vibration is pretty violent and the components on the crankshaft are directly effected by this accelerating and decelerating of the crank like the crank gear and oil pump
The factory dampner does a great job at dampening the torsional vibration created from an engine creating 600-700 crank horses by placing a weight on the outside with and specific rubber material layered between the hub and the weight.
What about 850-900 crank horses there is a lot more twisting on the crank (torsional vibration) so how do we solve this so the crank gear oil pump, chains, ext don't break from the additional energy being created by the extra power. being the stock dampner is out of its range now we have to put on a dampner designed for more HP and TQ so that it can absorb the additional energy instead of the crank gear, oil pump, timing chains, camshaft gears, ext
It's nice to see different approaches and the reasons. Options
Since OP is doing cams, in his second phase, wouldn't an approach be to do the following items when cams go in?
(I cut and pasted from the OPs post)
-->oil pump gears, crank sprocket and other timing components
OP is doing a dampener, to safeguard these components in their factory form it seems like?
I would just do it all at once and avoid getting hit, 2, 3, 4 different times with repeated labor and tuning charges.
I am also looking at whats sitting in my garage and what direction I want to go on my car now after seeing the OPs approach
Thank you for taking the time out and posting this.
I just, for a lack of better words, have always been scared shitless to mess with the crank on any Shelby 11-14.
Always went Upper and standard bolt ons with no belt slip issues etc.
Probably the, road most traveled by other enthusiasts, which gave me piece of mind my stock motor would be ok
I just, for a lack of better words, have always been scared shitless to mess with the crank on any Shelby 11-14.
And rightfully so... images of past threads about crank relearns, random misfires, broken cranks, and loosening balancers come to mind. Bottom line: it needs to be installed correctly. You know me and my confidence in my wrenching abilities, but I will NOT be installing the new aftermarket balancer on my car. Ideally, my engine builder will double key the crank and install the new balancer on my fresh engine build. I picked up a couple of parts recently to preserve my options:
ARP bolt and washer and Kinetic crank saver kit
View attachment 1837961
Putting in a crank saver is a definite must if you're changing out the lower pulley. I would also not be afraid to install it just out of precaution. The most important part of that install is to lube up the dampner shaft with oil were the seal rides and to torque the crankshaft Bolt/Nut depending on what you have.