Perfect thanks Bruce!
Not a problem.
I'm not sure what has happened to that last link but I can't seem to get it working.
Perfect thanks Bruce!
Very nice. yeah it takes a while to swap out all the bushings. It's tiring.
I would recommend a 1.5" wire wheel or even 1" if you can't find 1.5". It makes it easier and doesn't put as much strain on the drill because the cups are just under 2".
I misplaced part of my tool to remove the subframe bushings, so I ended up drilling around the crush sleeve to remove it and used a flat head/hammer to remove most of the remaining bushing and then used the wire wheel. This was by far the fastest I have ever had all the subframe bushings out. So that is my new process.
You can trim down a 2" wheel by running it on concrete for a few minutes. That's what I did. Brought it down to 1.5" probably.
You can trim down a 2" wheel by running it on concrete for a few minutes. That's what I did. Brought it down to 1.5" probably.
We like to warn people that this job is a pretty labor intensive undertalking. I have seen several people post here on SVTP that it was actually fun! That might be a stretch for a lot of people but I'm glad they had fun doing the job. The nice thing about doing the job is you will gain a new understanding and appreciation for your rear suspension! :-D
Jason:
Have you ever tried heating the subframe eye around the bushing with a torch? It really does not take a lot of heat. We've had excellent results removing them that way. The vulcanizing breaks quite easily using that method.
I don't doubt any of that whatsoever ^ I just think poly deserves some credit. Im still in the research phase for the IRS, any poly critiques on your site I can read up on? Or any customers that switched from poly to delrin I can talk with?
Did this on the front, made easy work getting them out. Just had to watch out for the 10 year old rubber water squirting you in the eye when drilling through themHave you ever tried heating the subframe eye around the bushing with a torch? It really does not take a lot of heat. We've had excellent results removing them that way. The vulcanizing breaks quite easily using that method.
Just got done for today , the halfshafts are in , fluids filled , the irs is loosely mounted for now . catching the new 9/16 front subframe bolts and this was by far the hardest part for me personally only using just a floor jack was a pain , and yes I opened up the buckets using the tool , anyways check out my axles I used graphite wheel paint from duplicolor :rockon: time to call it a day once again :sleeping:
Wow, those half shafts look great. Nice job.:beer: What kind of prep did you do on them before you painted them?
CtSvt, did you have fluid come out of the diff when you pulled the halfshafts? Little off topic I know. Thanks. Everything is looking good!
nope not a drop , just keep it straight and don't tilt it !
I thought it wasn't supposed to. Mine might have had too much in it lol.
this is also why I like the frpp cover , It has a level , fill and drain ! then again mine could of been low from leaking