This subject seems to be coming up again, so I'll post my review of the full pillar gauge setup.
For those thinking of going with another boost gauge, a NOS, Volt/Amp(don't have one stock), temp, etc, here's an option.
I went with a boost and A/F gauge. I'm glad I didn't go with the 3 gauge setup because it would have been just too much. The 2nd gauge is already close to your face, but it's OK. Especially since it's the boost gauge.
The A/F gauge is really a waste of money. It's looks cool and all with the colors going crazy, but it's doesn't tell you much. It's really a 1 volt LED meter. I should have gone with a volt or another temp gauges. Another subject.
This setup is pretty sweet. I thought about the dash pod setup, but this looked a little more SUPERCHARGED looking and it kept the dash stock looking. Both look good. There is also the single pod on the top of the column that looks good.
The pillar is probably the hardest to install with drilling and such. You can get a 2 pod holder that attaches to the stock pillar but it looks a little to funky in a 35-40K car. Go for the extra 20 bucks and get the full.
Some key points.
1) The full pillar comes in black. I bought some gray paint that I thought was close. Close, but not quite. Solution, PAINT THE OTHER pillar on the passenger side. Problem solved. It looks a lot more black in these pictures than it really is.
2) Trim the factory pillar cover on the edge about an 1/8 of an inch on the window side before putting the new one over it. This will completely hid the OEM cover. I even painted the OEM cover just incase any of it was seen. Can't see it at all.
3) Be careful with the clips on the OEM covers. They break easy.
4) On the gauges, get the add a circuit from Auto Zone. Makes for a sweet install. I trimmed the factory cover to go back on over the fuse block. A coleman suggestion that was excellent.
5) Some go behind the glove box for the boost gauge. Not needed. Picture attached. Get the 7/64 3 way vacuum tee. Fits perfect and easy to install.
6) Use some tape on the boost fitting. Teflon.
7) The wire for the A/F to the PCM is a piece of cake.
8) The lights in the gauges are a little brighter than the factory. I'm going to get an inline 12v 5 amp rheostat to drop down the voltage for the lights to make them even.
Mac...
Oh ya, one last thing. The grain is a little different than OEM. Not life threatening, but not exact. If I can live with it, anyone can. I'm pretty particular about these things.
For those thinking of going with another boost gauge, a NOS, Volt/Amp(don't have one stock), temp, etc, here's an option.
I went with a boost and A/F gauge. I'm glad I didn't go with the 3 gauge setup because it would have been just too much. The 2nd gauge is already close to your face, but it's OK. Especially since it's the boost gauge.
The A/F gauge is really a waste of money. It's looks cool and all with the colors going crazy, but it's doesn't tell you much. It's really a 1 volt LED meter. I should have gone with a volt or another temp gauges. Another subject.
This setup is pretty sweet. I thought about the dash pod setup, but this looked a little more SUPERCHARGED looking and it kept the dash stock looking. Both look good. There is also the single pod on the top of the column that looks good.
The pillar is probably the hardest to install with drilling and such. You can get a 2 pod holder that attaches to the stock pillar but it looks a little to funky in a 35-40K car. Go for the extra 20 bucks and get the full.
Some key points.
1) The full pillar comes in black. I bought some gray paint that I thought was close. Close, but not quite. Solution, PAINT THE OTHER pillar on the passenger side. Problem solved. It looks a lot more black in these pictures than it really is.
2) Trim the factory pillar cover on the edge about an 1/8 of an inch on the window side before putting the new one over it. This will completely hid the OEM cover. I even painted the OEM cover just incase any of it was seen. Can't see it at all.
3) Be careful with the clips on the OEM covers. They break easy.
4) On the gauges, get the add a circuit from Auto Zone. Makes for a sweet install. I trimmed the factory cover to go back on over the fuse block. A coleman suggestion that was excellent.
5) Some go behind the glove box for the boost gauge. Not needed. Picture attached. Get the 7/64 3 way vacuum tee. Fits perfect and easy to install.
6) Use some tape on the boost fitting. Teflon.
7) The wire for the A/F to the PCM is a piece of cake.
8) The lights in the gauges are a little brighter than the factory. I'm going to get an inline 12v 5 amp rheostat to drop down the voltage for the lights to make them even.
Mac...
Oh ya, one last thing. The grain is a little different than OEM. Not life threatening, but not exact. If I can live with it, anyone can. I'm pretty particular about these things.
Last edited:
